Main > Project Announcements
New pinball table build: PIN-o-RAMA - 40/28/12
elfman12:
--- Quote from: saleem on February 12, 2010, 03:59:59 pm ---why not buy a guide clamp.
--- End quote ---
Thanks, I think I need one of those. I've been using a 48" straight edge (level) and clamping it to the board, but the clamps I have don't have that deep of a throat, so that wouldn't always work. A guide clamp would work great. Do you suggest any particular one?
saleem:
i dont know realy as i think many people will suggest different products and i live in united kingdom.
all i can do is show you what i bought and its here:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/work-holding/clamp-grip---guide-system
i ended up with a 50" one.dakota brand,it dont clamp to any particular depth of wood as it grips the edges of the wood you want to cut,seems sturdy enough quality.all i know is i wont go without it now,it is an essential piece of equipment for my tool collection and woodworking.i would have had the rickitiest cabinet ever without it.
:D
elfman12:
Thanks again for the info. I think I'll need to invest in one, since I've promised to build a couple of MAME bartops for friends... and that will save a ton of time.
One questions, is there a way to use it when you are cutting a line at an angle to the ends it's clamping to?
javeryh:
A less expensive (and more accurate, IMO) method of cutting straight lines is to use a straightedge (I use a strip of plywood) and then a router with a flush cutting bit. Use your jigsaw to rough cut your workpiece about 1/8" from where you want your straight line to be. Then you can use two $0.99 spring clamps to hold the straightedge to the work piece. You can line up the edge exactly with your pencil line and you don't have to worry about an offset or anything. Once you get the hang of it you can make very accurate cuts very fast.
Kurt:
+1 I have built my whole pin cab using this method.
P.S The draw idea is catchy ;)