Where to buy the electrical (pc like) power plugins for cabinet back?

[syph007]

Sheesh, I know they probably have a proper name, but I don't know what to call them to do a search.  Basically Im looking for a detachable power cord for the cabinet back.  I see most folks install the kind like on the back of the pc.  Where do you get them and/or what are they called so I can search?

Thanks!

[bungy]

Do you mean these?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/EAC-309/?qs=BXIAZVTcIUPPMgDx7x1YtA%3d%3d

I, too, had trouble finding these for lack of a name.

Here's a list of them with fuses, switches, etc:
http://www.mouser.com/Power/Power-Entry-Modules/_/N-6g7mp/

[DaOld Man]

You can also get them from Lizard Lick:

http://www.lizardlick.com/pages/electrical.shtml

[syph007]

YES! thanks guys, sometimes it's the little things you don't think much about that are hard to find.

[sinkhead]

In the UK we call them kettle plugs, that might help.

[MonMotha]

In the USA, those are commonly referred to as "IEC plugs" since they are (one of many) plugs standardized in an IEC standard.  A "power entry module" or "power entry connector" should get you lots of hits.  You can even get them with built in noise filters, fuse holders, power switches, etc.

[Hoopz]

This question popped up a few years ago and someone got quite worked up when the OP said they couldn't find them anywhere.  They simply pointed out that you could find them on the back of any old pc laying around....   

[Blanka]

I would not recommend using them. Normally aparatus with IEC inlets need to be tested. The back of the plug has open AC current clamps that can be easily touched. It can even void your home insurance in case of fire caused by the cab. I would recommend leaving all components as they are build and use regular power bricks to connect the stuff. How often do you plan to detach cords anyway?

[Avinitlarge]

Ive just replaced mine. Pulled it from a knacked ATX PS

[MaximRecoil]

I would not recommend using them. Normally aparatus with IEC inlets need to be tested. The back of the plug has open AC current clamps that can be easily touched. It can even void your home insurance in case of fire caused by the cab. I would recommend leaving all components as they are build and use regular power bricks to connect the stuff. How often do you plan to detach cords anyway?

You can find open AC current all through a typical arcade machine; open fuse holders for example, like these - link. Either way, you could use heat shrink tubing or whatever over the open terminals on the back of an IEC power connector if it is a concern.

[drventure]

Yeah, I'm not so sure about that insurance comment. Maybe, but most equipment has open wiring in it at some point.

For instance, I just had to replace the PS in my Tivo. Pop the cover off, and the power connector inside is bare metal over to the PS board.

Granted, the inside of a Tivo is a lot tidier than a typical Arcade cab, but they're both essentially sealed units.

I'd echo the comment about shrink wrap though. It certainly can't hurt.

[Blanka]

Granted, the inside of a Tivo is a lot tidier than a typical Arcade cab, but they're both essentially sealed units.

Yes, sure, but the Tivo is left unopened by most. And old arcades were having bare AC lines to some point, but I wonder if you could sell a cab like that today. Almost all electronic devices today have nice boxed switching PSU blocks inside the case, which are left untouched most of the time and are replaced as complete unit in case of failure. I think you do better not using an inlet, but an AC extension cord/female plug and mount that somehow.

[bungy]

I used a power inlet on my cab and mounted an open backed junction box over it.  I added a couple outlets (one is switched, PC always has power), but I don't feel comfortable with the whole thing.  A few sparks and the MDF could ignite.  I like having the ability to completely remove the power cord for transport, but I find myself removing the cord whenever I leave the room.

I am thinking about mounting two power strips in my cab and extending the switch on one of them.  The switched one would be plugged into the "always on" one, and that one would be wired directly to the inlet, with heat shrink of course, and then sealed up with hot glue.  Does anyone see any problems with this design? Or is there a better way to achieve this with the power inlet?

[whammoed]

Yes, sure, but the Tivo is left unopened by most. And old arcades were having bare AC lines to some point, but I wonder if you could sell a cab like that today. Almost all electronic devices today have nice boxed switching PSU blocks inside the case, which are left untouched most of the time and are replaced as complete unit in case of failure. I think you do better not using an inlet, but an AC extension cord/female plug and mount that somehow.

Nope, modern arcade machines are pretty much the same as far as bare places to get a shock.  Plus you are overlooking there are worse places to get a shock in an arcade game:  Open frame CRT monitors.

[DaOld Man]

(This only covers the AC wiring inside a cab. Monitors are a whole new can of worms.)

What you have to remember about DIY wiring is basically 2 things:

(a) INSULATE. Try to cover all your connections. And use heat shrink or tape that is rated for 600 volts. (Or at least 300 if you are in the 120 volt region of our world.)
Pay attention to your wiring insulation too. Make sure it is rated at least 300 volts too.
Leaving bare places create likely touch points. You dont want exposed wiring if your kids, showing off your cab to friends, decide to open the box and look inside.
I would guess that the danger is  a lot higher of getting shocked than fire on DIY jobs.
Exposed wiring can also lead to fires by getting together, shorting out and causing sparks, which leads into my next thing.

(2) MAKE GOOD CONNECTIONS. A loose connection will generate heat. The heat makes the conductors expand, when the power is turned off and the connection cools, the conductors contract. This moving weakens the connection even more and the connection gets more loose and will eventually lead to sparks. We all know sparks and wood are not good together, unless you are trying to start a fire. Not only sparks, but the heat from a loose connection can get hot enough to melt the insulation on the wire, which points back to (a). This heat, if covered in lint or touching the wood cabinet, can be a good source of fire.
If you use crimp type terminals, make sure they are the insulated type, and make sure you know how to properly crimp them. Make sure the socket fits the blade, it dont need to be loose.
On high voltage connections, if I do use crimp terminals (which I rarely do, I prefer soldering), then I cover the crimp with heat shrink tubing after connecting it.
If you solder the connections, which is probably the best way to go IMHO, make sure you get a good clean, shiny solder joint and cover it with heat shrink or good tape.
And a good rule of thumb is to watch your job for a few days after. Use your arcade for a good while, then look around at your connections, do they still look good? Check for insulation at the connection turning colors. Also unplug it from the wall and immediately feel your connections. Do they feel warm? Shake the wiring a bit, make sure your connections are still tight.
If you make a bad connection it should show up pretty soon, but I check out my cab wiring every couple of months, just to make sure.
Also, a good connection includes using properly sized wire. If a wire size is too small for the load it is carrying, it will generate heat, and can get extremely hot. It's always a good idea to use a proper fuse in line with the AC supply. If too much current is being drawn, the fuse blows and turns off the power, which saves the wiring from over heating.

Remember, your cabinet, your house, and all the neat things you accumulated over the years can be replaced, but the lives of yourself and your family, cannot be.

When you are wiring, dont think of the insurance company, think of this.

PS, it's also not a bad idea to have a working smoke alarm in the same room as the cab, just in case.