Laminated upright cabinet. [99.9% done]

[syph007]

Problem is it's not that angle that causes the pain, the height of my current panel causes my hand to be bent backwards towards my arm, thats whats causing the pain, so rotation of the buttons wont help.  If the control panel was angled back the other way so the front was higher than the back, that would work, but it would look retarded.  So that's why Im thinking a stool might be the best option.

[syph007]

So I was finishing off my 3rd try at the cp box today, putting on the LAST piece of laminate.  I even had 3 sides flush trimmed and was doing the last.. so it would have been the VERY last cut for my entire project... and the router starts moving strangely.. I look down and the bearing HAD FALLEN OFF!  I ruined the last piece of laminate I just put down.  After swearing up a storm I realized, oh I'll just pry up the piece I put down, wood fill and redo this piece.

So I use a chisel and pry up the piece I just put down and get that all off.. when I realize the router had gone into the cured laminate pieces on the other 2 sides as well!!! 

So... I had to stop as I'm just having ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- luck today.  Im not sure there is going to be a quick fix for this... *sigh*

[Epyx]

Damn Syph sorry to hear, I feel your frustration. Ya a quick break and some regroup and you will nail this down, no doubt about it.   

[syph007]

I tried to salvage the error, but there was no easy way.  I even tried to shave off that whole surface to the depth of my error cut, but that just cracked the laminate on the other sides.  I spent last night and this morning chiseling/prying off the laminate on all sides except one.  So looks like I will be sanding/woodfilling to get it back to square, then laminating AGAIN.  I think I should just have enough scrap laminate pieces around to not have to buy another sheet.

Someday maybe I'll finally get this thing done... Oh here is what happened to my flush trim, so that others wont make the same mistake.  The bearing got gummed up from the contact cement residue and stopped turning.  But me forcing it around actually caused the bearing to unscrew.  So I cleaned it well with googone and that took it off fine.  So from now on I will be cleaning it after every side and checking tightness.  Well at least now I know right?

I was also thinking, the reason I wanted a bigger CP box was to get my trackball further from the monitor for good rolls to not hit my hand on the screen.  But looking at others projects, like Knievel's, it looks like his trackball is pretty close to the screen on his woody.

http://members.shaw.ca/knievelkustoms/woody/4.jpg

Anyone know what a good distance from the screen is for a trackball?

[Silas (son of Silas)]

Anyone know what a good distance from the screen is for a trackball?

Depends on which trackball games you play and how you play them. I'm a 'thumb flick and fingertip' player, so for me, proximity to the screen isn't too much of an issue. If you play with big palm spins and huge movement, then the further away the better.

[syph007]

I swear I'm making this CP thing harder than it needs to be... I'm now considering sticking with the smaller box I already made, and making mutliple panels for it.  I've been using my test panel with controls in the middle for all my 1P games, and my test mockup with the controls over to the left bugged me more.  I found it much more preferable to play the single player games, with controls centered.  So I'm debating getting an extra u360 controller for a dedicated 1P panel, and a separate 2P panel....  But then, where does the trackball go... on its own? Argg... maybe I should just make a standard typical 2P setup and get used to it.. i dunno.  Is this an issue for anyone else?

[syph007]

Alright, I think I needed that break, I'm back at it with vigor again.  After my CP box issues, I've gone full circle and am back to using my first one, which fits my new control design layout ok.

Now the next stage for me was cutting the CP panel itself.  I knew I wanted the front curved.  From my diagrams in inkscape I have been using a curve with a 6ft radius, so that's what I needed to cut.  I've thought about this for quite awhile and I really could not come up with a simple way of cutting a perfect curve... if there is, I just couldn't think of it.  So what I actually had to do was make a 6ft arm to attach to my router, bolted it all down and made the cut.  This was more of a measure 20 times, screw, align then cut once!  But it turned out perfect!  This isn't the final dimension of the panel, but I cut the curve side first.  At its full depth it will be 15 inches deep, 35 wide.  

This piece is just cut with particleboard since this isn't the actual CP, but the template.  I don't want to be using this technique every time I want to cut a CP, so this is just going to be used for the shape. I will pattern bit the final ones.  I know for a fact I will be making more than one CP. I'm way too picky to get it just right the first time.

Anyways, its nice to be back on the project.  I'll head back out and make the rest of the cuts after a mini break.

Cheers!

[syph007]

I finished the template CP piece just now.  It turned out exactly as I wanted so I'm happy.  I got the corners rounded and all smoothed down nice.  I'm glad I bothered to do the long setup method to get the front curve, if I tried to do that by hand it would been a butcher job.

I test fit the template to my CP box and its all good.  I then used the template to make a copy onto real plywood which will serve as my first test panel.  What I plan is to keep tweaking and cutting panels until I'm happy and one of the test panels will get 'promoted' to the final one.  Next I have to get my template printed out at staples or somewhere so I can do the drilling.

[syph007]

These are the two panel layouts I'm toying with at the moment in my inkscape mockups.  I don't like the 7 button layouts and dont need them so I knew I wanted 6.  I like the look of the straight 2x3 layout best, but on my last test panel that has this I got wicked wrist cramps, so Ive opted to give the ergo layout a try.

My first concept leaves out a dedicated 4 way in place of a topfire stick at either corner for tank games.  Im not sure if this will be comfortable though.

My second is a more traditional with a dedicated 4 way.

[syph007]

Well life got in the way and I got stalled for quite awhile.  Finally I'm back on track though.  For the last month or so I've been messing around prototyping control layouts.  I just about had what was perfect for me, but with one snag.  My CP box was just a bit too narrow to have the trackball far enough from the monitor.  I only needed a couple more inches though. 

So my first though was to build a new box that was bigger, but when I tried that it didn't look right on the cabinet.  So I got to thinking and figured what don't I try to make a tasteful extension to give the trackball a bit of room.  Seemed easy enough, but it took 5 tries and some swearing to get the angles right, and the laminate glued on without breaking the small corners.  I took some pictures of the small triangular piece from hell being made  and you can see how it attached.  Took alot of filing and shaping to get it just right.

I didn't have proper tools to do the small angles so I came up with all these weird braces to screw the part too, so that i could use my router on it to get a straight edge.  I'm finally happy with how it turned out though, and I can actually mount my controls next...  I knew this was going to be a long term project... I started buying parts in 2006.. but whats the rush eh?

If I ever redo the CP box, I'm going to make a rounded front to match the curve of the CP, but recessed.  That way there will be plenty of room for the trackball.

Cheers!

[syph007]

Well it seems to have worked out just fine.  You cant really notice that I made the addition from the top, and it allowed me to move the trackball about 2 more inches from the screen.  I was thinking i might mount usb ports on that part so it looks intentionally done.

[njay]

Good work, you can always think this has been a good learning experience even for some of us here !

[syph007]

Well I finally got my control layout figured.  I was totally against having the spinner above the trackball, but it actually works fine as long as it's not too close.  This was after 10+ test panels, so I picked it based on testing not random guessing and I'm finally happy.

I got the panel drilled and routed last night, so it's getting there.   I laminated the bottom just because I didn't have any black paint, but lots of laminate scraps.  The only goof I made was to drill the laminate from the top without wood backing, so it chipped.  Not concerned since it's underneath, but that did feel like a noob mistake.

Next is to get the plexi cut to size and using the trackball mounting kit as a router guide to cut the plexi hole.

More to come... cheers!

[syph007]

Well I'm making good progress today which is nice for a change.  I used the trackball mounting kit to make a template for the 3 inch trackball hole first.  I then used that to make the corresponding hole in the plexi.  It made sense to me to get that centered and on correctly first, then do the rest.

I then installed the trackball and made sure that fit the plexi hole.  The rest was way easier than i thought it was going to be.  All i did was use a spade bit to drill holes in the plexi for each button, then cleaned up the holes with the router.  I did the trick of installing buttons as I went to secure the plexi in place as well as using clamps.  Once all of these were done, I routered around the edge and it turned out great.  I still have to make the joystick hole in the plexi, but I'm going to whip up a quick template for that too, to make sure it's centered.

It feels great to be finally on to the fun parts of the build!

[syph007]

Well I'm done for the night, was really trying to get it done today, but I'm just out of time and energy.  This is how far I did get though, all the controls mounted and the graphics on and cut, with plexi installed.  

I'm REALLY happy with my final layout, simple and all the controls are accessible and nothing is in the way.   I attached my final drilling template svg file (should be readable in illustrator, but I used inkscape) if anyone else has any need of it.  This did go through many iterations to get to my final version, so maybe my testing and fiddling will help out someone else.  

My goal here was to allow enough space for trackball use, but have the joysticks close enough together so that it doesn't feel like you are standing too far to the side when using them.  I actually like the look of the straight buttons better, but had to go ergo for the feel, I was getting wrist pain.

Edit:  The layout I attached here, didn't seem to work.  I posted it here instead.
http://pdainitiative.com/temp/finallayout.rar

[Dafu]

The panel turned out great! Bit of t-molding here, and there, and you're done!

[drventure]

+1

Nice job on the panel!

[syph007]

The only progress I made last night was to get the wiring under the panel done.  I always admired all the fancy wire routing everyone usually does, so I was determined to do the same and make mine elaborate but neat.

It turned out that if you are using what I am, the wiring is actually very trivial.

I made up a wiring harness for each U360 stick, that interfaces the 6 buttons and the player button for each.  I'm using a turbotwist set on the Z axis so that my happ trackball could be interfaced on the x and y of the controller board.  I made my own cabling to connect it up, and it works just fine.  

So in the end everything is connected and needs 3 usb cables coming out to interface to the PC.

I rolled my own mame build as well last night to modify the Z mouse raw handling as per urebelscum's findings.  I also did the nag screen removal and removed the save/load slot select.  I wanted to just hit one button to save or load and have it work without picking a slot.

All the changes worked perfect and I finally got to play some arkanoid and golden tee.

I added U bolts on my panel as tether points to hold it secure with small bungees from the inside.  I added small guide pins as well to ensure it aligned properly.  So far this works quite well, but I have industrial Velcro to add if needed.

[Dafu]

Neat wiring job! I hope mine will be half as neat;)

What are the two u-shaped bolts for? Some kind of cp<->cb fastening system?

[syph007]

I continued with wiring last night, and tackled one of the last irritating tasks I had to do which was to desolder and relocate the volume knob from my speakers.  I figured it should have 3 connection points, but it ended up having 8.  I used some spare cat5 cable I had around which worked out well since it also had 8 wires.

I'm not great at using those desoldering sucker things, but I eventually got it off and reattached.  I had originally decided to relocate the headphone jack as well, but after doing that solder work, i'd had enough and figured it wasn't that important.

Only 2 pieces left now, admin panel and monitor glass.  I'm going to have to cut out some of the front plastics of the tv to make room for my admin buttons, it's closer to the front than I thought, but I hope that goes ok.

[Hawkweber]

I'm not great at using those desoldering sucker things, but I eventually got it off and reattached.

You might want to pick up some desoldering braid instead. 

[syph007]

I'm not great at using those desoldering sucker things, but I eventually got it off and reattached.

You might want to pick up some desoldering braid instead.  

Ya that might have been a better idea.  After putting the speakers back in and then testing.. turns out I fried the speaker board... These were cheap refurbs anyhow, not a huge loss.. but now I know.

So.... I bought another set of speakers and instead of opening them this time, I decided to follow this guide
http://scarvell.net/wiki/index.php?title=VOLUME_CONTROL_MOUNTING_AND_WIRING

This was a much smarter idea and I wish I would have found this sooner!  I installed a logarithmic 50k dual gang potentiometer in the middle of a 12ft extension cable.  The store even had a nice selection of knobs to try, I got a few different ones (I think I like the middle one best) and the total was still a little over 10 bucks for everything.

And... best of all this actually WORKS!  

[syph007]

Well I was using my panel for quite awhile on saturday, and the position of the player start buttons I chose were bugging me.  I  placed them the same relative position from the corresponding player game buttons, but it looked awkward since they werent equally spaced from the spinner.  So... i printed new graphics and got new plexi just to correct this.   I know it seems minor but it bugged me and I've spent this much time already, a bit more to be completely happy seems fine.

So after a few hours of work yesterday, here is the same panel again, but with adjusted player start buttons.   I've also been working on my admin panel, so its really just the admin panel and glass I need to finish now.

[johnd23]

Looking good!

I am in the planning stages of building my cab. How thick is the laminate? 1/16th? So if you laminate both sides of the 5/8 plywood it'll total 3/4 for the t-molding?

Also do you have the plans for this cab? Atleast for the sizes of the sides. I really like this style, i would like to go with something similar.

[syph007]

It's a bit thinner than 1/16 inch.  5/8 wood plus laminate on both sides was just a bit narrower than 3/4.  My molding overlapped a tiny bit, but I just ran a sharp chisel around the edges to trim the small excess, and it leaves you with a nice clean edge.

[syph007]

I got my admin panel done last night.  Turned out fine the first try, didn't even have to remake it 5 times! I made a 1/4 inch grove on the top to receive the glass.

It's not attached or wired up yet, but that and the glass are all that's left to do now!!

[syph007]

I managed to get the last little bits of wiring and fiddling done last night.  Admin panel hooked up, coin slot works, lights for reject buttons etc. It's now actually complete except for the monitor glass which I still have to order.

It was nice to actually use my BYOAC tokens and play some games!!!

[syph007]

Oh check this out, forgot to post it before.  I had to mangle the front bezel of the tv to make room for the admin panel.   Nothing electric in that part, but it looks pretty nasty I know.

[TheGameFan]

Oh check this out, forgot to post it before.  I had to mangle the front bezel of the tv to make room for the admin panel.   Nothing electric in that part, but it looks pretty nasty I know.

Is there any way to remove the entire front bezel or cutoff that section?

[syph007]

I could have, but would have had to take the tv all the way apart and really didn't want to do that again.  The bezel doesnt come off from the front unfortunately.

[jmike]

  Great work on that control panel. (+1 on the artwork too)

 

BTW I like that DDR Pad on the left. You running Stepmania?

[syph007]

BTW I like that DDR Pad on the left. You running Stepmania?

I don't have it installed yet, but yep that's the plan.  Works better on the arcade vs my normal tv anyhow, since the arcade screen is up higher, you dont have to look down as you're trying to play.

[jmike]

Very cool. I always wanted to make one that lights up when you step on it, but couldn't figure out how to do it. The one I built had Nintendo characters instead of arrows.