Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
DK 3 to Donkey Kong conversion/resto *FINISHED*
ZORK2:
Oh and Mauzy,
Help me locate the stuff to put cheepo CP together with, and my DK3 plate is all yours!! I'd like to see it go to someone who will enjoy it, and give it a good home! :cheers:
Chicken McNobody:
--- Quote from: Mauzy on August 24, 2009, 05:12:00 pm ---Exactly. Why they did this I don't know. Maybe they figured the original DK CP would be beat up after the couple years it had been in service. It might have been a way to get operators to put a fresh joystick and buttons as I would figure the original DK joy and buttons would be getting worn out by the time the kit came out and they knew that a new game would DEFINITELY not take off if all of the cabinets had worn out controls. The panels probably came pre-assembled for the ease of the operator. We've seen in the past how many ops will take short cuts. If you give an op a big bag of nuts, bolts, and joystick parts to replace "good" (only good because its already assembled) joys there is a lower chance that they will replace all of that stuff than if they were given a panel that they just have to plug in and clamp down.
Of course I just came up with all that crap as I typed it. Could be completely wrong.
--- End quote ---
This is very true, I used to work at an arcade in the late 90s, and most owners/employees could care less how the game looked. They only cared if the game would play enough to keep people from complaining. For example the SFII had only 4 working buttons for the 2P side, but since at this time, the game was not as popular since Tekken 2/3 were all the rage, nobody complained, so it never got fixed. The closest thing to care that was given to the place where I worked was that we would clean the control panels and plexi glass every night, to keep it sanitary and easier to see. So mostly if they game was capable of "playing" and taking quarters, they were perfectly happy. . .
Funny thing is that when I worked there, I could care less about the cabinets and inner workings of the games, and now I am obsessed with them. Meh, go figure. . .
Mauzy:
--- Quote from: ZORK2 on August 24, 2009, 09:41:21 pm --- BUT, that being said, I doubt my buddies, or anyone else that comes over to play, would gravitate toward it like they would a classic Donkey kong!!
--- End quote ---
Oh I hear that. Thats the only reason I'm still a little on the fence about leaving mine a DK3. Anybody in my family who would be interested in arcade games always thinks its original DK until I tell them otherwise. They promptly move one game to the right to play Galaga. I may rig up some sort of two board switch to have both in one on original hardware.
As for helping you locate some CP stuff, give me a couple days to research and I can point you in the correct direction!
--- Quote from: Chicken McNobody on August 24, 2009, 10:37:48 pm ---
This is very true, I used to work at an arcade in the late 90s, and most owners/employees could care less how the game looked. They only cared if the game would play enough to keep people from complaining. For example the SFII had only 4 working buttons for the 2P side, but since at this time, the game was not as popular since Tekken 2/3 were all the rage, nobody complained, so it never got fixed. The closest thing to care that was given to the place where I worked was that we would clean the control panels and plexi glass every night, to keep it sanitary and easier to see. So mostly if they game was capable of "playing" and taking quarters, they were perfectly happy. . .
Funny thing is that when I worked there, I could care less about the cabinets and inner workings of the games, and now I am obsessed with them. Meh, go figure. . .
--- End quote ---
Same story at the local arcade here. If it has a picture on the monitor, no matter how distorted, they don't touch it.
ZORK2:
Yep, it always comes down to the almighty dollar!!
Welp scratch that CP, I just bought one on Mikesarcade.com. A wooden Donkey Kong CP, new stick, the buttons, CPO and the card for under the plexi window, 85$. I started doing the math, adding up all the individual parts, and the price of the sheet of 5/8" plywood, and the amount of time it was going to take me to actually fab one, seemed pretty reasonable to me!?!?! Call me crazy...... I bet I'd have about that in making one?!?! $30 for the stick, $12 for the mounting plate, $10 for the buttons, $25 for the CPO, $5 for the CPO card, That gets me close to 80$, and that doesn't include a sheet of 5/8"?!?!
Done DEAL, CP problem SOLVED!!!!
Mauzy:
Hey that works too! I don't know how authentic you want to be with this cab, but nothing would stop you from upgrading that joystick to an authentic Nintendo either. Nothing beats the feel of a DK game with the original joystick!
Looking at the components involved that would prolly be the cheapest solution for new parts. I would have suggested that for someone looking to not break the bank.
Oh and if you haven't already you should check out my DK3 restore thread ;D
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=92466.0
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