Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
DK 3 to Donkey Kong conversion/resto *FINISHED*
Mauzy:
--- Quote from: ZORK2 on August 24, 2009, 03:07:25 pm ---Does any one know what joystick the original DK used?
--- End quote ---
This one. I'm sure you can find one used for much cheaper. The one on your DK3 is much shorter than the one used on DK as the DK joystick mounted to the full thickness of the wood, IIRC. All you have to buy is this shaft that they don't seem to have and new bolts to convert your DK3 joystick to a DK joystick.
Or at least thats what I had planned when I was going to restore mine to DK. ;D
--- Quote from: ZORK2 on August 24, 2009, 03:07:25 pm ---
So what's the deal, did the "DK3 conversion package" come with an entire new metal CP to replace the reuglar old wooden DK CP??
--- End quote ---
Exactly. Why they did this I don't know. Maybe they figured the original DK CP would be beat up after the couple years it had been in service. It might have been a way to get operators to put a fresh joystick and buttons as I would figure the original DK joy and buttons would be getting worn out by the time the kit came out and they knew that a new game would DEFINITELY not take off if all of the cabinets had worn out controls. The panels probably came pre-assembled for the ease of the operator. We've seen in the past how many ops will take short cuts. If you give an op a big bag of nuts, bolts, and joystick parts to replace "good" (only good because its already assembled) joys there is a lower chance that they will replace all of that stuff than if they were given a panel that they just have to plug in and clamp down.
Of course I just came up with all that crap as I typed it. Could be completely wrong.
ZORK2:
Yeah that makes sence I suppose. Ok, so now I'm going to need help from you guys replicating a DK CP!! :) You say that longer stick was made specifically to go all the way through the full thickness of 5/8 inch plywood? How does it mount then with out the top of the bolts being visible on top of the CP?? Are they counter sunk and then cover by the CPO??
Were you also saying that the longer stick is no longer in stock anywhere?
Boy I'd hate to have to pay $70 some bucks for a new stick?!?! Are there any other options? Where on earth would I ever find a used one?!? I have a feeling one on ebay would be a tough find?
Also what buttons and button set-ups would have to be fitted to this new wooded CP!?
Well here is the info you requested from my cab, I tryed to be as excact as I could with the measurements....
21 15/16 wide by
24 7/8 long
My cab has TWO plates on it,
the first says
Model No TPP2-UP-US
Serial No 06881
The second says
Model No DCK1-UP-US
Serial No 80037PAK
Who knows what that means!??!?! I saw a thread here the other day explaining it, but didn't have time to read it yet!!
I'll post a pic from tonights work after dinner! OH OH OH, My DK bezel and PCB came today!! ;D
Mauzy:
To be honest, I can't be sure about the CP joystick attachment. If I were building one, I would countersink bolts underneath the overlay. However, I don't know if that is how they were built in the factory. The joysticks actually come up on eBay on occasion and don't sell for too much. I would shoot MikesArcade an email if you are interested in that shaft. They run an excellent business. I use them for most of my arcade parts and have never had an issue.
--- Quote from: ZORK2 on August 24, 2009, 08:26:53 pm ---My cab has TWO plates on it,
the first says
Model No TPP2-UP-US
Serial No 06881
The second says
Model No DCK1-UP-US
Serial No 80037PAK
Who knows what that means!??!?! I saw a thread here the other day explaining it, but didn't have time to read it yet!!
I'll post a pic from tonights work after dinner! OH OH OH, My DK bezel and PCB came today!! ;D
--- End quote ---
You may not like this, but your cabinet seems to have left the factory as a Popeye as denoted by the TPP2. If it were originally a DK it would be TKG. The DKC plate is from the Donkey Kong 3 conversion kit.
That being said, if it has been running DK3, you will have no problem whatsoever running Donkey Kong in that cabinet. Its essentially (if not exactly) the same cabinet as an original Donkey Kong.
IF you plan on removing that DKC plate and you can do it without destroying it, please send me a PM as I would like to have one for my cab.
Oh and thanks for the measurements guys :applaud:
ZORK2:
Huh, very interesting! A popeye huh? Well judging by the slight burn in on the monitor, it spent the better part of its life as DK3!! I will have to weigh all my options as far as a CP. I would DEFINATLEY like a wooden one. May just be easier to find a decent used one around somewhere, and restore THAT one?!?! I don't have any 5/8" plywood laying around, I bet I'm looking at $25 for the sheet, and then I still have the pain of making it!??! If I could pick up a used one for around that same price? THAT may be the way to go?
Funny side note, I found tucked away inside the cabinte, the original "How to convert your Nintendo PAK game to a DK3" book!! HA!! It has a few different things that you have to do, for all the different games that came in that cabinate, Popeye, DK, DK Jr, and I believe Mario Bro??
At any rate, she'll probably live out her days as a good ol Donkey Kong! ;D
I'm with you Mauzy, there is a BIG part of me that would have like to just KEEP it DK3!! I had visions of it painted that DK RED color, all fixed up as BK3. I have it on my Multi Jamma and I really DO enjoy playing it. BUT, that being said, I doubt my buddies, or anyone else that comes over to play, would gravitate toward it like they would a classic Donkey kong!! The deciding factor being the fact that the Bezel and Marquee looked like they were going to be a major pain to find!! It was enough to push me over the edge, as DK parts are a dime a dozen. It's the car equvilent of restoring a 65 mustang vs, resotring a 66 murcury comet!! ;D
ZORK2:
One last pic, the first coat of bin is sanded, the second coat is on, now for the second sanding!!!!
I just had to place the DK bezel on it to try it out! ;D :applaud:
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