Applying Wilsonart laminate

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Unkis17:
As far as edging goes (and i don't know what type of tools you have). The way to get a Pro look, you do the edges first, route them flush with the base of the router on the raw faces, this way when you glue and route the faces you don't don't see the edge laminate! Much nicer cause sometimes you get like a yellow line in their from the contact cement. Make sure you use real contact cement too & outside! This stuff should burn if you take a big wiff. It's ~$8 for a quart. Eirther roll or brush it on evenly, I use a comb type tool when i am done spreading to put lines in it to even glue as well (they are sold right next to the glue lots of times). Apply glue to both lam & MDF and make sure that it is dry to the touch (IE doen't leave your fingprint). Flex the laminate so only the middle touches first then roll it out to the edges. Use a J-Roller (or a rolling pin, J-roller is better since it is a rubber composite it will compress material ~$10) to get all glue even and bubbles out. Roll from the middle out on both sides.
BTW, you can cut strips of the laminate on a table saw! Just make sure the blade is just a bit higher than the laminate. The gullets of the blade will tear the laminate! I would put the laminate on a plywood board then rip it, otherwise the laminate can slip under the rip fence and you will mess your work up.
For taping, I only need to tape sections where the wood is curved or whatever. Keep in mind the router is going to TRACE that wood, so it will amplify any divits or whatever in the wood (also why edges first, lam should leave a real flat surface to work with). If you keep your base of your router clean and smooth, even a bit a wax on it you don't have to worry about any type of scratches from the base on the face of the lam.
If you are going to put T-Molding on it buy your T-molding 1/16" thicker to accomodate for the lam. Lam should be 1/32 and if you do cabinets (as i have done) you are supposed to do both sides for moisture protection and then the molding comes out perfect, otherwise you will have a small lip, just cut the T-Molding Kerf a bit low to make the top flush and let the bottom hang out.
If this doesn't cover all your lam Q's let me know and i will give you more info. I've done plenty of Lam to know...

u_rebelscum:

--- Quote from: Unkis17 on July 10, 2003, 09:07:19 am ---As far as edging goes (and i don't know what type of tools you have). The way to get a Pro look, you do the edges first, route them flush with the base of the router on the raw faces, this way when you glue and route the faces you don't don't see the edge laminate!...[snip]
--- End quote ---

When you say "do the edges first", are you saying route the base, then route the lam, then glue the lam to the base? Or something else? I'm not quite following you, sorry.

kspiff:
I was kind of confused, too.. my whole question was about whether you need anything to trim/line the edges of the laminated area.. I think that I was wrong about that, but had recalled something 1UP mentioned about iron-on melamine..?

Unkis17:
U_rebel, By do the edges i mean. Glue the edges with laminate and route flush before you glue the faces with lam and route flush. Although if you are using T-Molding, then no need to glue the edges with lam if you are just going to cover it up. This process that i explained is more for doing cabinet work then just CPs specifically. As well as nothing to do with shaping your wood. You should always shape it to the final dimenisions before you lam.

kspiff, Iron-on Melamine is out their, but i usually only see it in white, just like the sheets you can buy. The downside to the premade melamine is that it isn't ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- compaired to Lam. Lam is made High Pressure and can take a lot more abuse then Melamine. This stuff scratches real EZ and isn't really waterproof. The up side is that it is already done for you. Also the Iron-on is known to come off pretty EZ, all you have to do is catch an edge of that stuff and it starts pealing back...

Was that clear? I know I don't type it the way i think it, plus i know what i am talking about and not everyone else does, i should proof read my work more, sorry.

u_rebelscum:

--- Quote from: Unkis17 on July 11, 2003, 09:15:45 am ---U_rebel, By do the edges i mean. Glue the edges with laminate and route flush before you glue the faces with lam and route flush. Although if you are using T-Molding, then no need to glue the edges with lam if you are just going to cover it up. This process that i explained is more for doing cabinet work then just CPs specifically. As well as nothing to do with shaping your wood. You should always shape it to the final dimenisions before you lam.

kspiff, Iron-on Melamine is out their, but i usually only see it in white, just like the sheets you can buy. The downside to the premade melamine is that it isn't compaired to Lam. Lam is made High Pressure and can take a lot more abuse then Melamine. This stuff scratches real EZ and isn't really waterproof. The up side is that it is already done for you. Also the Iron-on is known to come off pretty EZ, all you have to do is catch an edge of that stuff and it starts pealing back...

Was that clear? I know I don't type it the way i think it, plus i know what i am talking about and not everyone else does, i should proof read my work more, sorry.
--- End quote ---

Ah, I see. That makes perfect sense.

I think I'll still go with T-molding for the most part, but I like the idea of lam'ing the edges for parts that won't or can't get T-molding. I was thinking of using Iron-on Melamine for the those edges before, but you make using lam on the edges instead so easy. (Of course, you're experienced with it and I'm not, but so what? ;D )

Any advise on trimming flush on edges that are not square with the face? (I guess trimming flush lam on either the edge or on the face will have problems.) I am thinking where the back and the slanted top meet, so it's not too important, but there might be other spots.

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