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| kspiff:
I should be able to afford (:P) to pick up some laminate this weekend for one of my 2 ongoing restoration projects.. but before I even get it, I was hoping to get some tips on application.. for instance: what is the best adhesive, how to best hide the edges, surface prep tips, etc.. primarily curious about how to hide the edges properly (paint, iron-on edge.. stuff..? :/).. Plans were to: sand surfaces from 60 down to 220 (applying some wood hardener somewhere in between gradients), tac clean, lay down the adhesive layer (to both surfaces -- laminate and cabinet?), apply laminate (weighted down with books), trim, route flush.. then still not sure about the edges :P |
| shmokes:
I believe you are now at the T-molding stage. edit: if you're using a flush trim bit this shouldn't matter too much since the router will sit on the inside instead of on the laminate, but remember to cover any surface that the router base plate will slide over *and* will be visible after construction with masking tape. The baseplate will leave unsightly scuffs on laminate or paint. Cover the surface with tape, route, remove tape and your surfaces will look great. |
| AGarv:
Do not I repeat do not use latex based contact cement. Get the good old solvent based contact cement, it works much, much better. 220 is prolly overkill on the sanding. |
| AlanS17:
When you apply the laminate be sure to go over it with a rolling pin or something the make sure the glue is even and there are no loose pockets in the middle. You won't see air bubbles through it (obviously) but they can still form on a very small scale and get loose as time goes by. |
| kspiff:
OK, cool. Good advice. Still wondering, though, if the molding completely masks the edges.. does the actual laminate have the fibrous backing, or are only the samples like that (dumb question, probably :P)..? ... Too bad I probably won't use it now until after the next SuperAuction (d'oh!).. never enough $$$.. hope I can get a Gauntlet I/II or Super Sprint this time :P |
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