Author Topic: GORF!!!! (Read 23672 times)

dmel75 · « **Reply #40 on:** June 10, 2009, 01:26:06 pm »

Yeah, it's definitely got one leg, (the one at the top of the resistor in that picture) that's not connected. Is this something I can replace or do I need to get a new monitor chassis/card set?

SirPeale · « **Reply #41 on:** June 10, 2009, 01:29:20 pm »

I don't know if YOU can replace it (you haven't specified your soldering skills) but it most certainly can be replaced!

Of course afterward you'll have to figure out what happened to it. Very strange for a LEG to burn up, usually the whole thing cooks.

dmel75 · « **Reply #42 on:** June 10, 2009, 01:42:33 pm »

I can solder fairly well enough do get this done. Just need to figure out the actual part no. and try and order it's modern day equivalent. I can't quite read anything other than 100ohm and 5%5W.

SirPeale · « **Reply #43 on:** June 10, 2009, 02:03:34 pm »

Quote from: dmel75 on June 10, 2009, 01:42:33 pm

I can't quite read anything other than 100ohm and 5%5W.

That's all the info you need. It's a 100 ohm resistor @ 5 Watts.

Expensive to ship JUST that resistor, unless you can find someone that'll drop it in a padded envelope @ standard 1st class rates. Or wait until you find other stuff that needs to be ordered.

SirPeale · « **Reply #44 on:** June 10, 2009, 02:07:07 pm »

Here. I think.

http://mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=4141081+4294576007+4294648889+4294741869

Guessing as to the resistor type.

dmel75 · « **Reply #45 on:** June 10, 2009, 04:21:13 pm »

Well, tonight I'm going to plug up the freshly cleaned and scrubbed PCB/Cards and see if the red-screen-of-death goes away. If it does not then I think I may look at buying a new monitor chassis for the WG K4605. It at least needs a recap either way.

On that note, is there ANYthing that can be done about screen burn? This monitor has some, not much, but it's definitely there.

Mauzy · « **Reply #46 on:** June 10, 2009, 05:18:14 pm »

Screen burn can only be remedied with a new tube.

Wait until you can replace that resistor (or at least reconnect whats there) to go buying new chassis. That could be one of those cases of a $3 fix bringing a machine back to life (though the red screen does sound like a board issue...)

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #47 on:** June 10, 2009, 07:53:43 pm »

K4600's like any other monitor of that age is gonna have bad solder joints. A higher wattage resistor like that is a prime place for that to happen. So the leg may have had the joys of corrosion/solder joint/arcing and finally the leg gave way. (burnt itself right off)

#1 thing is to get the game to play "blind" at least.....then move onto the monitor. (which most certainly will needs some TLC)
Those vertical cards that plug into the main chassis are also notorious for bad solder joints where they plug in.
Red screens is signs of life on the monitor, more of a reason to be concerned with the game boards right now.

SirPeale · « **Reply #48 on:** June 10, 2009, 08:05:05 pm »

From what it sounds like, you're FAR away from having to buy a whole new chassis. Sounds like the one you have just needs a little work.

Recap (not cap KIT because they often don't have /all/ the caps, and they /all/ (except the really big one) need replacing. Retouch every solder joint on the board, particularly on the daughter card connectors and the flyback.

As said, the only cure for screen burn is a replacement tube. You may find a compatible one on the side of the road, or at a recycle center. Me, I have a TV repair place up the road from me that will let me have whatever I want because then /they/ don't have to pay the disposal fees.

I've been told that this project encompasses all the caps on a K4600, but I haven't tested that myself. This list did come from a trusted source, so take that as you will:

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=1B0C09F6B6

Add your resistor to that list and that's a starting point. Also if there are any electrolytic caps on the Gorf board, you may want to make a list of them and add them to the order. After all this time it would not surprise me that they need replacing too.

dmel75 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 12, 2009, 10:30:06 am »

Cleanup and tear down slowly progressing. Took out a few more pieces last night to clean. I also spent some time and labeled a lot of little wires so when the wiring harness is ready to go back in I will actually be able to hook it all back up. =) The joystick parts and 25c plates went thru the dishwasher and came out looking very nice. Some of the aluminum parts are going to require a good steel wool or light sanding to get them looking new. The marquee is in fine shape minus a few small spots on the back where the screen printing has come off. These spots are very noticeable, does anyone know if painting over these spots with a matched paint would be ok or would that just show up as dark spots when backlit?

dmel75 · « **Reply #50 on:** June 12, 2009, 10:50:28 am »

Just found this Gorf info site: http://www.gorf.info/ Has some nice info on the scoring lamps and the difference in color between using LED vs Incandescent.

Spyridon · « **Reply #51 on:** June 12, 2009, 10:56:39 am »

Quote from: dmel75 on June 12, 2009, 10:50:28 am

Just found this Gorf info site: http://www.gorf.info/ Has some nice info on the scoring lamps and the difference in color between using LED vs Incandescent.

I like the soft glow of the original better

Spyridon · « **Reply #52 on:** June 12, 2009, 10:58:03 am »

What is the serial number on your Gorf? I'm guessing it's a lower number as you still have the speaker slots in the piece above the control panel.

dmel75 · « **Reply #53 on:** June 12, 2009, 11:06:22 am »

Well, I'm not sure. Where in the cab do you find the serial #? I took these pics right when I got it and have found the #37 in different parts of the cabinet. I didn't know if that was the serial # or the person doing the construction/inspection when it was made.

Mauzy · « **Reply #54 on:** June 12, 2009, 12:15:28 pm »

The tag that says "GOR UP" and "USA" also has the serial on it. Yours looks to be 13034. That was standard Midway practice back in those days. Pacs, Ms Pacs, Galaxian, Galaga, etc had similar tags.

dmel75 · « **Reply #55 on:** June 12, 2009, 12:19:19 pm »

Spyridon, what serial is yours. ? Do you know why they made the speaker slot change?

Spyridon · « **Reply #56 on:** June 12, 2009, 02:26:20 pm »

Quote from: dmel75 on June 12, 2009, 12:19:19 pm

Spyridon, what serial is yours. ? Do you know why they made the speaker slot change?

Mine is 16886

I'm not sure when they made the switch.

dmel75 · « **Reply #57 on:** June 12, 2009, 11:58:59 pm »

Found replacement bulbs today. As far as I know they're all burned out. I think these are all the types of bulbs in a Gorf upright. Found the large marquee bulbs at Target and the other smaller bulbs for the side light panel and joystick at Autozone, thanks for the tip Spyridon!

Spyridon · « **Reply #58 on:** June 13, 2009, 12:33:06 pm »

My marquee just had standard light bulbs in them. 25W for the upper and 15W for the lowers. Although, looking at the manual, the bulbs are in the shape of the one you picked up. Never noticed that before.

dmel75 · « **Reply #59 on:** June 14, 2009, 03:01:06 pm »

Ok, now that the cabinet is gutted and ready for painting I decided to give the PCB a shot again.

I set everything up in a testing setup and tried again but got the same results. By the way, the previously mentioned resistor that I thought was broken turned out to be ok after inspecting it closer.

I took a Youtube video in hopes that maybe someone else seeing what was going on would help. [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNntrX3KKsk[/youtube] Take a look and if you have any ideas please let me know!!

Spyridon · « **Reply #60 on:** June 15, 2009, 11:50:55 am »

You should try to save that side art. Mask it off while you work on the rest of the cab sides. It looks to be in good shape and the only repro stuff available is really not the right color.

dmel75 · « **Reply #61 on:** June 15, 2009, 02:51:26 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on June 15, 2009, 11:50:55 am

You should try to save that side art. Mask it off while you work on the rest of the cab sides. It looks to be in good shape and the only repro stuff available is really not the right color.

Yeah, I've been going back and forth on what to do as far as painting. The art is in really good shape so I thought of getting a small can of matched-color Valspar (gloss, semigloss?) paint from home depot and just touching up the nicks and scrapes here and there. There are really only a couple of spots where the wood is damaged and those are very small and close to the t-molding. There is a definite 'patina' on the paint, you can see that the clear coat over the paint has darkened over the years so I'm hoping to take a paint chip from an area with this 'aged' color to get a match from. The inside area near the bezel/monitor/speakers is really just in need of a good cleaning. I think if I replace t-molding and just really scrub it down everywhere else it will look great. My goal is to have the cabinet in as close to original and restored shape as possible. I can't find a good reproduction CP like the one ThisOldGame did (although he says he may do another run sometime.) I found a CP overlay for Gorf on eBay but I'm not sure how it would look. http://cgi.ebay.com/GORF-PANEL-OVERLAY-STICKER_W0QQitemZ370181846422QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item56308eb596&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Spyridon · « **Reply #62 on:** June 15, 2009, 03:46:52 pm »

TOG is out of them?

I would avoid that Willis control panel overlay. I'd rather stay with the one you have than put that on.

Level42 · « **Reply #63 on:** June 15, 2009, 04:17:41 pm »

Yes it comes with mounting hardware.

dmel75 · « **Reply #64 on:** June 15, 2009, 04:47:59 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on June 15, 2009, 04:17:41 pm

Yes it comes with mounting hardware.

Not sure I follow you....what comes with mounting hardware?

Level42 · « **Reply #65 on:** June 15, 2009, 05:24:35 pm »

Oops....posted in wrong thread. Please ignore !

dmel75 · « **Reply #66 on:** June 22, 2009, 11:00:23 am »

Started trying to match paint, got a mix of latex flat Valspar at Lowes, it's close but you can definitely see the difference.

~~On another note, I cannot figure out my PCB issues, does anyone out there know of anyone that can repair/diagnose a Gorf PCB?~~
Scratch that, just bought a known good, tested PCB set and chassis from eBay, should be here in a few days. Other work on the cabinet has slowed to a crawl with the 100 degree days we've had here it's JUST TOO DARNED HOT to work in the shop. Even at 9pm it's 91 outside!

dmel75 · « **Reply #67 on:** July 01, 2009, 11:12:04 pm »

New PCB set came in today - IT WORKED!!!! Game fired right up, didn't have speakers so I could not verify the sound but the monitor looked GREAT! Woooo! Now on to woodwork/restoration/paint.

dmel75 · « **Reply #68 on:** July 19, 2009, 09:16:58 am »

Tested the original board set & chassis by swapping out one board at a time. Verified that the culprit in the original board set was the "CPU Board." I'm fairly sure that Gorf and Wizard of Wor used the same CPU board so if I can find another CPU board from Gorf or WOW then I'll stash that set away so I'll have two working board sets. In the meantime, it's still been dreadfully hot which means work on the cabinet has progressed at a crawl. I just stripped down the old coin door and it's ready for paint. I've received new t-molding and I've decided not to entirely re-paint. I'll just clean and touch up the cabinet since the artwork is in such good shape. Next steps will be to get a better paint match (oil-based) for the top of the cabinet, touch up and begin reassembly. The only thing I'm not really sure about at this point is the control panel. Since This Old Game is not doing any more Gorf panels at the moment I believe my only option now is to thoroughly clean and reassemble it and hope to find a cleaner one sometime in the future.

Spyridon · « **Reply #69 on:** July 19, 2009, 11:30:52 am »

Hopefully TOG will do another run of control panels. They really are spectacular.

Also, check out my Gorf restore and look at my old panel. If it is better than yours (probably not), you can have it.

IG-88 · « **Reply #70 on:** July 19, 2009, 11:39:51 am »

I know you got your new working PCB set, but perhaps you can send in your non-workng CPU board to one of these guys:

http://tinyurl.com/mbuzhn

http://tinyurl.com/mckbpv

http://tinyurl.com/58fnf

I can vouch for the 1st & 3rd one. Haven't heard anything bad about the middle one tho.

dmel75 · « **Reply #71 on:** July 20, 2009, 02:49:41 pm »

Quote from: Spyridon on July 19, 2009, 11:30:52 am

Hopefully TOG will do another run of control panels. They really are spectacular.

Also, check out my Gorf restore and look at my old panel. If it is better than yours (probably not), you can have it.

Thanks so much, very generous. After looking at the pics, I think they're about the same. Maybe ToG will do another run sometime. I may try and repaint some of the lines and just lightly sand off the old, worn away text for now. Thanks again!


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