Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Mauzy's DK3 restoration. *Staying DK3, now with coin door*
RetroACTIVE:
--- Quote from: orion on May 17, 2009, 12:06:09 am ---
--- Quote from: Mauzy on May 16, 2009, 11:45:34 pm ---
--- Quote from: WunderCade on May 16, 2009, 05:59:59 pm ---Mauzy
Are you gonna get rid of that DK3 stuff? I've all the DK stuff for your cab except I do not have the 2 board pcb, mine is 4 board.
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Well, I'm planning on keeping the DK3 stuff for a future project. I'm hoping to have a cab for DK, DKjr, and DK3 (yes I know, I could do it all on one...). If you're getting rid of the DK stuff anyway shoot me a PM. This cab will be original DK.
--- Quote from: RetroACTIVE on May 16, 2009, 06:07:14 pm ---Don't use wood filler. Stick with straight up bondo body filler. Screw a piece of plexiglass on the outside and lay the cab on it's front filling it from the back, slowly filling the whole building it up. You may add some fiberglass tape (on the inside) to add some structural support. When it's cured, remove the plexi and do a quick touch up on the front.
--- End quote ---
Thats what I was kinda thinking, though the fiberglass tape is something I hadn't thought of. Sounds like the same process as repairing a fender on a vehicle. Would I use the same kind of bondo? I have a big can of Bondo body filler that seems to be made for use with a vehicle. Is that the same stuff you're talking about? I've never used Bondo so I plan on practicing on a smaller broken corner in the back.
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Yes, it's the same Bondo for use on a vehicle. You can probably repair the damage on the side of the cab with it, but it will be a job to repair that fist sized hole with it. I seriously doubt it would hold up very well on that, there is only so far you can go with bondo. Seems to me the easiest thing to do with that section would be to simply replace that entire panel with new wood. You have the old piece you can use as a template, simply route a new one using a flush bit. The other option is to cut out the bad section around the hole and make a patch out of some new wood, then use the bondo to blend the old wood with the new... kinda like how you patch holes in drywall. Hope this helps.
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I've replaced entire corners with bondo... Allthough that hole looks pretty big I think bondo will work fine. Replacing the panel is tricky, you will have little to no luck finding proper plywood. Also if the rest of the cab is well put together you may end up creating bunch of extra work for yourself getting it apart.
Mauzy:
Other than the back bottom panel being held on by 6 drywall screws, the cab is pretty solid. I'm leaning toward cutting out the bad section and putting in a plywood patch, then smoothing it all out with a small amount of Bondo. I know there is no easy way to do this but having a hole such as that isn't really an option.
--- Quote from: BUCKETHEAD on May 17, 2009, 09:21:07 am ---Maybe, My project can help you a little?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=79183.msg828059#msg828059
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How did you know how far out and how to shape those corners? Did you just eyeball it? The corner thats missing on mine has the opposite side corner in perfect shape. I was kind thinking of making a jig to try to get them as close to uniform as possible.
RetroACTIVE:
I'm sorry you have a particle board cab.. not plywood as I previously stated.
Mauzy:
--- Quote from: RetroACTIVE on May 17, 2009, 10:22:31 am ---I'm sorry you have a particle board cab.. not plywood as I previously stated.
--- End quote ---
Right. Do you think I should patch with particle board or plywood? Does it really make a difference?
RetroACTIVE:
--- Quote from: Mauzy on May 17, 2009, 10:40:27 am ---
--- Quote from: RetroACTIVE on May 17, 2009, 10:22:31 am ---I'm sorry you have a particle board cab.. not plywood as I previously stated.
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Right. Do you think I should patch with particle board or plywood? Does it really make a difference?
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Doesn't particularly matter. I think you will be surprised at how well bondo sticks. Just knock off the loose material to get a good bond and your good to go. I still believe extra wood is not necessary, it won't hurt. You'll just have to be sure the extra material doesn't interfere with the coin door or coin box frame.
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