Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Mauzy's DK3 restoration. *Staying DK3, now with coin door*
Mauzy:
So after some wheelin' and dealin', I bought this Donkey Kong 3 cab for $100. Didn't even see it until I picked it up and oh boy! Its got all original wiring, joystick, buttons, monitor, and coin door. The coin door even still has the duct tape blocking the "straw trick" on the hinges!
The GOOD!
I bought it with the understanding the the monitor had been screwed up in a botched attempt at a cap kit. The guy capped it, then it stopped working. I brought it home, fired it up and saw some pretty color streaks. Looked at the FULL adjustment sheets still stapled to the back door to locate the horizontal hold and brought the monitor to a nice crisp picture. Guess the cap kit wasn't really botched.
Also, the controls are all original (original DK colored buttons!!) and work great. Need new switch leafs for the joystick, but great otherwise.
All of the wiring is stock 2 board Donkey Kong and nicely in place.
The BAD
No sound, probably an audio cap kit in need.
Bezel and marquee brackets rusty as well as the coin door.
Coin door is a little bent (READ ON)
The UGLY
Theres a corner missing with foot tall split up the side.
No base.
Hand size hole next to coin door under plate next to coin door. I figure the machine was broken into.
QUESTIONS!!
What type of bondo should I be using?
How should I go about fixing that hole? Its way bigger on the inside than it is on the inside. Wood patch first?
Without further ado, PICS!!
I'm gonna need A LOT of bondo...
RayB:
Wow, the lengths some people go to to steal a few quarters. :dizzy:
WunderCade:
Mauzy
Are you gonna get rid of that DK3 stuff? I've all the DK stuff for your cab except I do not have the 2 board pcb, mine is 4 board.
RetroACTIVE:
Don't use wood filler. Stick with straight up bondo body filler. Screw a piece of plexiglass on the outside and lay the cab on it's front filling it from the back, slowly filling the whole building it up. You may add some fiberglass tape (on the inside) to add some structural support. When it's cured, remove the plexi and do a quick touch up on the front.
Mauzy:
--- Quote from: WunderCade on May 16, 2009, 05:59:59 pm ---Mauzy
Are you gonna get rid of that DK3 stuff? I've all the DK stuff for your cab except I do not have the 2 board pcb, mine is 4 board.
--- End quote ---
Well, I'm planning on keeping the DK3 stuff for a future project. I'm hoping to have a cab for DK, DKjr, and DK3 (yes I know, I could do it all on one...). If you're getting rid of the DK stuff anyway shoot me a PM. This cab will be original DK.
--- Quote from: RetroACTIVE on May 16, 2009, 06:07:14 pm ---Don't use wood filler. Stick with straight up bondo body filler. Screw a piece of plexiglass on the outside and lay the cab on it's front filling it from the back, slowly filling the whole building it up. You may add some fiberglass tape (on the inside) to add some structural support. When it's cured, remove the plexi and do a quick touch up on the front.
--- End quote ---
Thats what I was kinda thinking, though the fiberglass tape is something I hadn't thought of. Sounds like the same process as repairing a fender on a vehicle. Would I use the same kind of bondo? I have a big can of Bondo body filler that seems to be made for use with a vehicle. Is that the same stuff you're talking about? I've never used Bondo so I plan on practicing on a smaller broken corner in the back.
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