Mame Cabinet - Utilising Orig Coin Door & Orig Speaker etc . questions

[Vicious Burger]

So I'm coming along with my Mame cabinet. I have the IPAC4 to do the button/joystick connections,and it has a connection for COIN. Is this only for connection to a button to simulate a coin-drop,or can i connect the actual coin door to this so that it will register a credit when a coin is put in the slot.? Ideally,I'd like to connect both to the same connection so that either a real or simulated coin can be used,but would the input menu in MAME recognise a real coin being put into the slot ?

Also,to avoid making holes if possible for new speakers,I would like to use the original cab speaker, but as it is wired to the main board,I'm not sure how to get it to work from the PC I'll be using inside the cab. Any help on that would be appreciated. I assume it is amplified from the board but i don't think i can just connect it to the soundcard as it is,correct me if i'm wrong.

[Kevin Mullins]

As for the coin switches - yes, you can wire them up just as you would any button.
(a switch is a switch)

As for the speakers - you may need a small amplifier as the sound card probably won't push them very well. (can even pull one from an amplified set of PC speakers)

[Vicious Burger]

As for the coin switches - yes, you can wire them up just as you would any button.
(a switch is a switch)

Cool,just need to find which wire it is i guess.

As for the speakers - you may need a small amplifier as the sound card probably won't push them very well. (can even pull one from an amplified set of PC speakers)

Just tried a small set of speakers which i didnt need,but the amp was way too crappy to power the speaker,probably talking milliamps. I'll probably get a slightly better set and just put them behind the grille in place of the old speaker.

[thecheat]

There should be a microswitch at the point where the coin drops from the validating mechanism into the box. My switches have long wire arms that intersect the coin path and you can pull the switch down by moving the wire down with your fingertip.

Regarding the speaker, you should be able to buy a cheap amp from Jameco or JDR Microdevices. They sell preassembled kits or ones you can solder yourself. They usually require a potentiometer for volume control. Make sure you get one that uses 12v for power to make everything easier on your wiring. A 5 watt amp ought to be more than enough to run it. I had bought a 20 watt amp and it's overkill for driving an 8" subwoofer on my home theater

[Vicious Burger]

There should be a microswitch at the point where the coin drops from the validating mechanism into the box. My switches have long wire arms that intersect the coin path and you can pull the switch down by moving the wire down with your fingertip.

Thanks,yeah i saw the little wire arm which clicks when the coin passes it,and the wires come out from under it (or the side of it,i cant remember offhand) so yeah i need to find the correct wire to connect to the IPAC device.

Regarding the speaker, you should be able to buy a cheap amp from Jameco or JDR Microdevices. They sell preassembled kits or ones you can solder yourself. They usually require a potentiometer for volume control. Make sure you get one that uses 12v for power to make everything easier on your wiring. A 5 watt amp ought to be more than enough to run it. I had bought a 20 watt amp and it's overkill for driving an 8" subwoofer on my home theater

I'll check that out. Hopefully I can run it from my PC PSU.

[Turnarcades]

Take care when running a commercial coin mech signal to an I-Pac not to damage it. The documentation will tell you that the interface expects a 5v signal, not 12v as most commercial mechs put out. When using Ultimarc's mech/door you have to use a 5v zener diode to step it down to 5v and though many people have said they run the connection direct without converting it to 5v, I personally wouldn't risk frying a 'pac.

[Vicious Burger]

Take care when running a commercial coin mech signal to an I-Pac not to damage it. The documentation will tell you that the interface expects a 5v signal, not 12v as most commercial mechs put out. When using Ultimarc's mech/door you have to use a 5v zener diode to step it down to 5v and though many people have said they run the connection direct without converting it to 5v, I personally wouldn't risk frying a 'pac.

Good point,thanks for the advice.