Author Topic: Pac Man 'Mini' cab project. (Read 21157 times)

Pacman83 · « **on:** March 13, 2009, 08:48:55 am »

I finally took the plunge and bought a VERY rare (especially here) 'mini' cab.

It is very old and worn and there is some wood rot on the base. As you can see from the pictures, the wood rot is confined to one of the corners where it meets the front panel (below the coin mech) and that extends about 2 inches into the front panel. There is no other wood rot besides this. The base could be removed and replaced I expect.

The feet are no longer there and it looks as if it was stored for some time on a damp floor. This cab was apparently stored in a warehouse for MANY years and it shows.

Anyway, it's not all bad news. The monitor fires up and has no real screen burn. The marquee lights as well but there is no gameboard. The inside looks pretty good as well.
I can still source most parts from your lovely country (Twobits) and I would appreciate any advice from you guys as far as the restoration goes.
Please recommend to me - Cleaning of circuitry, SAFETY, cleaning & treating of wood, and general issues to make things run a little smoother.

This was a gamble, I know. It is difficult to buy a genuine Midway cab here for any less than £1500 (a restored decent one that is) so I saw this as an oppertunity to try it myself. The cab is completely untouched by myself at the moment, so what you see in these pictures is what was stored for Lord knows how long ?

Let me know your thoughts. Now, the pictures.

Spyridon · « **Reply #1 on:** March 13, 2009, 02:46:46 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on March 13, 2009, 08:48:55 am

I can still source most parts from your lovely country (Twobits) and I would appreciate any advice from you guys as far as the restoration goes.

The first bit of advice I can give you is to look around before ordering from Twobits. You can probably find everything you need cheaper. Check out the Buy/Sell/Trade section here as well as the For Sale sections over at KLOV.

Also, you never stated where you are from?

This looks like a good project. Ask any specific questions you have and I'm sure the good people on this board will help you out.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 13, 2009, 03:38:48 pm »

Sorry guys, I'm from Cumbria, England.

Obviously, getting parts etc is not easy to here, if there are light parts (like switches, overlay, bulbs, fuses etc) needed, I attend Funspot each year to play Pac Man for charity, so I could get one of the guys there to bring needed items there and then take them home to England.

Thankys for your support BTW.

RayB · « **Reply #3 on:** March 13, 2009, 04:03:14 pm »

You'd be surprised. 1500 bps ? not likely. You've been looking retail. There's a whole "underground" scene where this stuff is much more affordable.

PS: You've come to the right place to find out more.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 13, 2009, 05:07:53 pm »

Does anyone have some pointers regarding the woodwork ?
I've had some guys say that particle board is not salvageable once rot has set in. Is there a way to remove / rebuild those sections ?
I fully expect that the base itself has to be removed and replaced, but obviously the surrounding wood has to be sound.

Is it best to completely strip the cab out of the internals and if so, is there a best way to do this ? Maybe a link to a similar project here ? I'll keep looking in the mean time.

Cheers
Jon.

Level42 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 14, 2009, 03:29:37 am »

I'm definity no expert at wood work but it looks to me like you should be able to safe that one. Personally, I'd rather have a less perfect _original_ cab then make a new one and transplant everything inside. It wouldn't be the same IMHO.

Yes I would definitely replace the bottom wood. Check out the "woodworking" thread for some suggestions to get the lower parts of the sides in good shape.

Even if you could have find one cheaper, it's not like you can pick up original Pac's here by the bunch. Yes I have seen two for sale in the past 3 years but still it's a nice project to restore that one.

I doubt the mini CPO is available from TwoBits, and indeed I'd try to look elsewhere first because of quality and price....

Monitor looks like a G07 ? not sure..

This will be fun to follow !

Some other good sources for info are the UK based Jamma+ forum (http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/) and KLOV forum http://forums.arcade-museum.com/ but do please keep the project thread here

Pacman83 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 15, 2009, 03:37:35 am »

Thanks Level42,

Yes, it will be some pretty hard work but rewarding at the same time. (he says, fingers crossed)

Yes, the monitor is absolutely original, November 1980 printed on there. Until I get a new game board, who knows if it will look OK. Like I mentioned, it does fire up, so there's a start I guess.
Yesterday I dusted the inside with a soft bristle brush with one hand, the hoover in the other as I went. I will post the new 'clean interior cab' soon as.

You'll see on the new shots that the 10p slot has 27,000 credits logged and the 50p (3 x credits) has 2,200 credits so, there's been some serious action on this cab. Wonder if anyone reached the splitscreen ?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 15, 2009, 04:20:55 am »

OK, here's the new pics of the cab. Amazing what a brush, hoover and an hour of patience can do ......

Mauzy · « **Reply #8 on:** March 15, 2009, 11:00:17 am »

At least your electronics don't look to be in too bad of shape. Now that you got everything cleaned up, you need to gut it and make a mess working on that wood.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 15, 2009, 02:27:52 pm »

Yes, that's coming soon .......

Pacman83 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 17, 2009, 06:08:46 pm »

Time to sand the cab down and firstly, use the wood hardener on the rotten areas as well as any exposed edges. The interior of the base has been done as well, 2 coats.

I've done all the surfaces that the T-molding attaches as this looks suspect to cracking & splitting. The hardener is EXTREMELY irritant so, like the picture demonstrates (cheers Wife) wear a mask and eye protection !

The hardener is fantastic stuff though ! After 2 hours, it was rock solid and the areas that were pretty soft and vunerable are now like new wood strength. No kidding.

Sort the base out & filling next ..........

Mauzy · « **Reply #11 on:** March 17, 2009, 07:33:59 pm »

So what is your plan for the sides considering the wood grain look is gone? Wood grain vinyl?

Oh and if there was still any confusion about that monitor, it is most definitely a G07 as Level42 guessed. I have two of those, and they can be a very sturdy monitor when brought back to life.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 17, 2009, 07:48:33 pm »

Hi Mauzy,

Formica is a good option I feel. I want to keep the original look and colour as near as I can. Cuban Mahogany looks a great match.

orion · « **Reply #13 on:** March 17, 2009, 08:33:23 pm »

Whenever an arcade restorer dons a respirator, you know they are about to take some names and kick some ass!!!! Good news the monitor fires up... once you get a hold of a working PCB, this should be a piece of cake (OK, not really

)

Mauzy · « **Reply #14 on:** March 17, 2009, 08:56:43 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on March 17, 2009, 07:48:33 pm

Hi Mauzy,

Formica is a good option I feel. I want to keep the original look and colour as near as I can. Cuban Mahogany looks a great match.

If you wanted to be REALLY anal about it, you could do Cherry Oak. Thats what the cocktail tables were modeled after, I'd assume they would do the same with the cabarets. I like the looks of cuban mahogany though. Im not really a purist when it comes to the wood grain cabinets. My Super Pac Man cocktail has a 4 inch tall black strip of plywood along the bottom of the front of the cab. The original owner seemed to not know what leg levelers were for and allowed the bottom to come apart. Even the fancy wood hardener (which I had never heard of until now) would not have patched this bad boy up.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 18, 2009, 06:13:59 pm »

OK, time to bond the new base onto the cab.
I've used a high grade ply 'sandwich' of 2 sheets to allow for both strength and the inclusion later of either adjustable feet or castors.
The original base of the cab was pretty uneven in places, so I had to make sure that all 4 corners were level before the new base could be fitted. The cab would only rock like a table with a 'dodgy' leg.

This seems the best option for me. The thought of knocking the 'old' base out and putting a new one in, then fill in the bottom edges doesn't seem the best solution. This cab needed a new base to sit on, the old one was simply retired. I understand that it will be about 0.8" higher than before, but hey, it's close enough and way better than before.

The base will be bolted in all 4 corners as well with large washers attached both sides. Countersunk as well. The base will be finished off before the filler is applied, probably slightly chamfered to the bottom and painted matt black.

Pilot holes were drilled to support the new base whilst the Evo Woodglue sets. This glue is just fantastic and is actually stronger that the wood itself. One has to be careful though. Once this stuff has set, forget about repositioning anything, so it's 'right first time'.

I decided to place it upright as there is over 40kg on the new base to set it completely flat. Next job ...... Woodfiller the rough edges and sort the hole out.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 20, 2009, 02:29:11 pm »

The base is nearly sanded down completely now. The result has been positive I feel and it'll look so much better when the laminate is applied and the T mounding is sorted. The hole was finished with glass fibre and woodfilled to finish. The new base was then treated and hardener applied. It really is SO solid and probably stronger than new ! Don't forget though, the base is far from finished as the final smooth coat has to be applied once the remainder of the base coat is sanded with 1500 paper.

I did some work on the power board this afternoon. I used the rotten original one as a template for positioning the pilot holes. The 4 bolts used for grounding were drilled straight through and countersunk. I removed the surface rust from the transformers and the connections with the trusty Dremmel and polished what needed to be done. There are new zinc coated hex nuts throughout.

All of the contacts & solder has been cleaned using PCB Alchohol cleaner and they've come up well. The casings of the transformers were also given a coat of enamel spray.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 22, 2009, 02:30:10 pm »

Used the afternoon to continue the prep work on the cab.
Just to think, there was a fist sized hole bottom right ! It has vanished and is lovely and smooth.
The base has had 4 coach bolts fitted and I fitted temporary feet until I sort some leg levellers in steel.
I have primed the 'worked' areas in grey, then in satin black.
The rough wood at the back of the cab surrounding the vents for the transformers has come up pretty good. Took ages to sand and prep though !
Even though some areas (such as the rear) aren't really visible, I wanted to make sure it was done as the rest of the cab has had a lot of attention to it. I also sprayed the interior with 'satin' spray and it looks new.
The top of the cab has come up like glass and I'm very pleased with it. also the speaker grille area looks as good. The preparation on this project really is everything. Well worth the effort.

This coming week the steel parts are off to the sandblaster & Powdercoaters, then to pick up the laminate for the sides and front ......

Spyridon · « **Reply #18 on:** March 22, 2009, 07:10:09 pm »

This is impressive! Nice work.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 30, 2009, 04:57:09 pm »

Next job that's now complete is the steel from the cab.

The huge majority of it was good for blasting, treating and powder coating but there were 2 pieces from the CP that were VERY bad. It was probably an option to get these re-manufactured, but I wanted to save every single original bit I could, so, it was going to be a lot of preparation with these.

The rust had eaten away in some areas so badly that the only option here was automotive steel 'filler' followed by the laborious task of using 4 grades (260,600,800,1250) of wet & dry on the complete CP and the 2 other rusty parts. The Powdercoaters let me know straight away that these 3 parts had to be done by hand.

You'll see by the pictures the stages they went through. There were 3 coats of primer followed by 3 coats of 'matt' paint. The result has been good though. As a reminder to just how bad the CP was, look at the first posting ...

The front artwork was supplied by Monkey online and his work (as mentioned here before) is simply superb ! He even sent me a spare !!

Next job, LAMINATING !!!

Pacman83 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 30, 2009, 05:02:59 pm »

It's lamination time.

I was faced with a veriety of methods of doing this. The one I opted for was what I felt more comfortable with, considering my limited experience in this area.

The laminate was lay flat and the cab was then lowered onto it. After careful positioning, I drew around the cab as a template with a pencil held on it's tip (to allow for an overlap) then removed the cab.

Using a brand new Stanley blade, I positioned a metal straight edge along the straight lines and scored VERY CAREFULLY !! You MUST wear gloves when doing this as one slip will cost you a serious injury.

When the straight scores are done, you can then carefully go over your marks a few times then the laminate will break off easily. Care must be taken on the curve as this is all done 'freehand'. Patience is a vital key in this job.
The new laminate side can then be placed on top of the cab (now lay flat) and carefully positioned. I used a masking tape 'hinge' on the longest edge (the back) to join the laminate to the cab. It can then be hinged backwards, knowing that when you're ready to lower it, it will match the side perfectly.

The edge of the laminate and the cab is then painted with the contact adhesive, I then used the spray alternative to cover the rest of the surfaces. Both laminate & cab must be covered with a layer.

NOTE - You must be certain in your mind that the two sides are lined up before they come together. As the laminate is lowered, use one hand to slowly press down near the 'hinge' as you check it's uniform. Once these surfaces come together, there's NO way you're going to reposition it if you get the positioning wrong.

It's then smoothed out and lay on it's side to weigh down the join during the curing process (about 2 hours). I then used a 'ba$tard' cut file to file the excess by hand using a slow even stroke, only applying pressure on the forward stroke, so not to splinter the plastic side of the laminate. You'll see in the 1st picture the file and small wire brush. Make sure you clean the surface of the file from time to time as it clogs up with laminate dust and wear your mask.

This was a slow and laborious job, but worth the patience. Once done all round you can stand back and admire the finished side. Repeat to the other side and I have to do the front panel now.

javeryh · « **Reply #21 on:** March 30, 2009, 08:59:57 pm »

Very impressive work! You worked some serious restoration kung-fu on that CP.

Any reason why you didn't cut the laminate about 1/2" oversize and then route it flush?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 31, 2009, 02:41:46 am »

Quote from: javeryh on March 30, 2009, 08:59:57 pm

Very impressive work! You worked some serious restoration kung-fu on that CP.

Any reason why you didn't cut the laminate about 1/2" oversize and then route it flush?

I have a router and a straight cutting bit with a bearing guide, trouble is, I needed to clamp a wooden 'guide' to the edge of the cab for it to work properley and there's places on the cab where this is not possible. I suppose on a full size cab it would be a little more straightforward, but I aired on the side of safety as these sheets of Formica cost me £70 (or about $100)

Level42 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 31, 2009, 05:14:39 am »

Fabulous work ! I much prefer the new formica style over the original, looks very tasteful !

The CP (and all the other metal parts) look great too, indeed amazing when compared with your starting point !

Pacman83 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 31, 2009, 12:39:58 pm »

Alright, now to finish off the lamination.

The front was relatively straightforward compared to the sides. I had to carefully measure the exact dimensions of the front, in this case, 18" wide x 29.75" long.
I did this using a long steel rule, which I use also to cut the straight lines up against, again, remember that if you attempt this yourself, WEAR GLOVES !!

Anyway, the front was checked for any dust & crud, then painted with Contact adhesive (same for the laminate) right up to the edge. Don't worry if some excess squeezes out, you can deal with that later, but for now it's important to have bonding up to the very edge.

You'll notice that the edges of the cab are now protected by 'low tack' masking tape until the T-moulding arrives, that's to stop any accidents ! also, the inside edge of the sides are masked out to prevent the Contact adhesive from spoiling the black finish. as soon as the laminate is applied, remove this tape as it will be a bugger to remove when the adhesive cures.
The coin door was then cut out by hand after marking it from the inside with a pencil. After the two were brought together, lots of pressure is then applied to ensure good adhesion.

I've included a shot of the PCB (which arrived today)
I purchased it from a guy in New York called Slava Madrit. He has an advert on eBay and to sum things up, his service, comms and goods are SENSATIONAL ! Let me know if you need his details.

The T-moulding arrives soon along with leg levellers, new fuse holders & fuses, new Midway logo for the front of the coin door and a new cap kit for the monitor.

RayB · « **Reply #25 on:** March 31, 2009, 03:35:51 pm »

Wow. I think I'm going to follow these steps to re-finish my Omega Race mini. Where do you buy that laminate?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 31, 2009, 04:18:33 pm »

Quote from: RayB on March 31, 2009, 03:35:51 pm

Wow. I think I'm going to follow these steps to re-finish my Omega Race mini. Where do you buy that laminate?

It's Formica. - http://www.formica.co.uk/publish/site/eu/uk/en/home.html

It's expensive but fantastic quality laminate. The original cab had 'sticky plastic' sheets glued on.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 01, 2009, 03:13:38 pm »

Had to finish the front laminate panel.

The coin door aperture has ovals cut on the hinge side to accomodate the fixings so this had to be done with a round file. The sides were done with the ba$tard file same as the sides, then some countersinks were cut on the facia after the pilot holes for the studs were drilled. The reverse side of the coin door has strengthener rings welded to the base of the studs and the countersinks accomodate these.

The frame was then offered up to the facia to check for an exact fit.

The steelwork has been finished by hand as well. The shotblast, treating and powdercoat did the job, but after the completion of the CP, the rest of the exterior steel didn't meet this standard, so I decided to finish them in the exact same way to the CP.

The signage from the cab has been cleaned up and laminated ready for installation, but I still require a Bally Midway aluminium plate from the rear of the cab as this was missing.

Mauzy · « **Reply #28 on:** April 01, 2009, 07:51:25 pm »

I like the laminated signage idea. I'm gonna have to do that to my cabs. Luckily I made sure to keep all my paper goods like that in a small component drawer otherwise they would certainly be lost!

Level42 · « **Reply #29 on:** April 02, 2009, 07:41:03 am »

Quote from: Pacman83 on April 01, 2009, 03:13:38 pm

...... but I still require a Bally Midway aluminium plate from the rear of the cab as this was missing.

Rich from www.thisoldgame.com has excellent Bally/Midway rear plates incl. mounting hardware.

javeryh · « **Reply #30 on:** April 02, 2009, 02:33:30 pm »

I love how it says "Pac-men"

Pacman83 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 03, 2009, 05:48:51 am »

Quote from: javeryh on April 02, 2009, 02:33:30 pm

I love how it says "Pac-men"

Wouldn't be allowed today

Should be 'Pac - People'

Level42 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 03, 2009, 06:22:39 am »

So.......how does that card look like on Ms. Pac Man ?

Malenko · « **Reply #33 on:** April 03, 2009, 08:50:37 am »

that is a down right AMAZING job +1 to your Restore-Fu

Pacman83 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 14, 2009, 12:25:43 pm »

Some parts arrived today (hooray) and it was high time that the T - Moulding was applied. Taking to account that the Formica was 1.2mm thick, there was a slight 'edge' when it was attached. This was cleaned off carefully with a needle file, then the edge finished with a black permanent marker. I ran some contact adhesive along the moulding cut before the moulding was hammered down.
The end result looks really good.

The fuse holders and new fuses were swapped with the old ones and soldered into place. The leg levellers are to be fitted soon, they are top quality as well, very pleased with them.
I have finished off the coin door, now it has the original Midway plaque on the front.
The back door has been sanded down and primed, finished with black paint. I will show more details of these as they're fitted.

The cap kit is here and I am just awaiting the new Flyback transformer, then I'll get them fitted to the monitor.
The marquee has been given a couple of coats of white emulsion and the rear vents have now been stapled into place.

There are new 1-2 player buttons and the joystick arrived as well this afternoon, courtest of Mark Alpiger. Many thanks Mark !

I will use the best parts from the 2 that I have to make a good one.

It's slowly coming together now

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #35 on:** April 14, 2009, 01:59:26 pm »

AWESOME

Someday I want to do a Phoenix with laminate as well.

You've done a terrific job!

Pacman83 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 15, 2009, 09:33:51 am »

Time for the coin door and components to have the make-over they deserve.

There was a lot of rusty parts in there. The 10p coin mech looked as though it was still in use up to the storage of this cab (whenever that was) but the 50p mech was thrown in the base and had been cannibilised.
The cab will be set to 'freeplay' whan I'm done, so in all honesty, I'm not too bothered if they're operational at the moment.

All the parts that were rusted were rubbed down with wet & dry and prepared to be primed/coated. They were done in 'steel effect' spray paint. Even the tiny coach bolts used on the coin slots had to be done as they were ruined.
The new lock has been fitted to the door as well.

I masked out the windows of the credit counters before the work was done on them.
They've been re-fitted along with all the parts that were present from dissassembly.

I've taken some shots of the inside, the front of the coin door and some other shots with the C/P offered up to see how it'll look. Need to tackle the joystick soon.

Starting to look like a Pac cab now.

SirPeale · « **Reply #37 on:** April 15, 2009, 10:05:36 am »

Holy cow...I've never seen this "steel effect" paint. That's awesome. I'm guessing it's not available in the US.

JimmyU · « **Reply #38 on:** April 15, 2009, 10:10:37 am »

Damn, that's a mighty fine job. Keep up the good work.

RayB · « **Reply #39 on:** April 15, 2009, 11:17:06 am »

DAAAAAAMN! Nice!!

Level42 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 15, 2009, 07:18:09 pm »

orion · « **Reply #41 on:** April 15, 2009, 11:38:03 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on April 15, 2009, 10:05:36 am

Holy cow...I've never seen this "steel effect" paint. That's awesome. I'm guessing it's not available in the US.

SirPeale, (yea I got it right this time!!!) I was wondering this myself. It did give me the idea of trying Thomas Liquid Stainless Steel on coin door parts like this. It's basically a paint that has stainless steel in it. Check it out, it's not horribly expensive.
http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/products.html

http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/learnhow.html

Pacman83..... Dude this is awesome!!!! Job well done!

Mauzy · « **Reply #42 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:28:01 am »

Quote from: orion on April 15, 2009, 11:38:03 pm

Quote from: SirPeale on April 15, 2009, 10:05:36 am
Holy cow...I've never seen this "steel effect" paint. That's awesome. I'm guessing it's not available in the US.

SirPeale, (yea I got it right this time!!!) I was wondering this myself. It did give me the idea of trying Thomas Liquid Stainless Steel on coin door parts like this. It's basically a paint that has stainless steel in it. Check it out, it's not horribly expensive.
http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/products.html

http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/learnhow.html

Pacman83..... Dude this is awesome!!!! Job well done!

Wow. I have to try that stuff. I have two Midway doors that look great except for the rusty reject switches and dull entry chutes...

Pacman83 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:33:17 am »

Thanks for all the positive comments guys

Level42 · « **Reply #44 on:** April 16, 2009, 12:16:28 pm »

Truly, this looks better than new....

One thing: What Midway coin door plate did you use. AS ?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 16, 2009, 03:34:36 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on April 16, 2009, 12:16:28 pm

Truly, this looks better than new....

One thing: What Midway coin door plate did you use. AS ?

To be honest, I just ordered it from the net (arcadeshop) USA, I might still drill the 6 holes and pop rivet it as it was originally.

Edit - just realised, AS means arcadeshop ?

It was the gold one.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #46 on:** April 16, 2009, 04:34:06 pm »

Had a bit of a 'eureka' moment last night.

I had to re-seal the shower cubicle and used some Unibond sealent. This stuff is VERY robust and seemed to have a similar consistency to the rubber used on the grommet on the Pac Cab. Hmmm...
I have used some to repair the one that was split and it looks and more importantly 'feels' great !
It centres very well and seems very tough. I'll use it and see how it turns out. Never know, may be a solution to old / damaged ones.

The C/P was finished today along with the joystick.
The component parts were all cleaned / polished and then assembled using new hardware where applicable.
I had to mask out the cab in order to finish the black edging up to the laminate where the T - moulding met, just to make it look spot on.

The electronics were also installed and the wiring harness sorted out. I have taken some detailed shots as I went today, so you can follow if needed. The PCB was fitted after the carriers were screwed on.

QUESTION - Which way around does the harness fit to the PCB ? I have no idea as there wasn't a PCB when purchased.

Cheers guys.

OTTOgd · « **Reply #47 on:** April 17, 2009, 12:39:45 pm »

Wow. just wow.

Inspiring work. I can hardly wait to see you finish. I hope you post some video of this treasure when you're done.

Level42 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 17, 2009, 01:49:27 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on April 16, 2009, 03:34:36 pm

Quote from: Level42 on April 16, 2009, 12:16:28 pm
Truly, this looks better than new....

One thing: What Midway coin door plate did you use. AS ?

To be honest, I just ordered it from the net (arcadeshop) USA, I might still drill the 6 holes and pop rivet it as it was originally.

Edit - just realised, AS means arcadeshop ? It was the gold one.

Yep I meant arcadeshop. I can understand since you probably ordered more stuff there.
However, looking how absolutely perfectionist you are I suggest you get ThisOldGame's version of the plate. It's ten times as nice....it's a real metal plate unlike AS's version and the artwork is insanely much better repro'ed.

The rivets are a PITA. I have popped them off and glued back in the remaining top to get the best possible look.
Some people have searched long and hard but never really found a perfect replacement IIRC.

B.t.w. what's that white stuff on the joystick grommet ?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 17, 2009, 02:47:13 pm »

Hi Level42,

See the top of the post and it explains the 'white stuff'

orion · « **Reply #50 on:** April 17, 2009, 05:26:50 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on April 16, 2009, 04:34:06 pm

QUESTION - Which way around does the harness fit to the PCB ? I have no idea as there wasn't a PCB when purchased.

Looks to me judging by the pics that you got it right, but I am assuming that the wire color coding on a Mini Pac Man from Europe is the same as a stand up in the U.S. Your board looks identical to mine so it should be. Just to be sure here is a link to a Pac Man pinout (if you haven't found this yet)

http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Pac.html

Pacman83 · « **Reply #51 on:** April 19, 2009, 04:04:50 am »

Thanks Orion. It is correct.
I just need to get the monitor sorted out now as there is no picture, just a 'raining' effect of Pac Man 'blue'.

I'm going to take it to a monitor specialist and have the cap kit & new Flyback fitted at the same time.

When the picture is sorted out, I'll fit the final parts and it'll be good to go !

Level42 · « **Reply #52 on:** April 19, 2009, 07:14:23 am »

Looks like a sync problem to me.

SirPeale · « **Reply #53 on:** April 19, 2009, 09:31:28 am »

Quote from: Level42 on April 19, 2009, 07:14:23 am

Looks like a sync problem to me.

Agreed. Adjust your H and V hold and see if it changes to a more stable picture.

Level42 · « **Reply #54 on:** April 19, 2009, 02:32:17 pm »

Looks like H and V sync reversed to me....

Pacman83 · « **Reply #55 on:** April 19, 2009, 03:30:39 pm »

Thanks for the information.

I have followed the instructions and checked the wiring to the video inputs. They are different on mine, someone has possibly been fooling around in the past and messed it up.
Anyway, I have a picture !! There is no blue though and therefore no maze as well. The dots are there and the ghosts etc, but no maze. This must be something to do with the BLUE Video feed.

On the Pinout diagram, Video BLUE is a YELLOW & BLACK wire (Position 'U' on the Parts side).
I have NO Yellow & Black wire present.

The other wires are correct I assume. There are some screen shots sent as well.
I have attached some pictures of my harness. I have separated the sides as well so you can look at the sides individually as there are a couple of colours that don't match the Pin location diagram.

At least I can see a result.

Regards
Jon.

Level42 · « **Reply #56 on:** April 19, 2009, 03:49:36 pm »

So were the syncs reversed ?

First turn down the brightness ! You can see the retrace lines across the screen, not good.

Turn the "Screen" pot on the HVT back a bit (the one that doesn't say Focus

)....

Level42 · « **Reply #57 on:** April 19, 2009, 04:09:24 pm »

Check out the pic of you monitor connector.

Connections are: (from up to down):
Red
Green
Blue
Ground

The blue terminal has a a blue/black wire and on the other pic I can see it going to pin U so that's fine.
The other wire colors look to match too.

Just found out that Pac Man outputs a composite sync so it was probably on the wrong pin earlier ?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #58 on:** April 19, 2009, 05:25:46 pm »

Level 42,

I think they were. I am a complete novice with electronics.

I was just following these guidance notes -

Ok, let's hook it up.

Board edge connector pin T goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 1

Board edge connector pin 16 goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 2

Board edge connector pin U goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 3

Board edge connector pin S goes to 6 pin monitor header pin 4

Board edge connector pin 17 goes to 3 pin monitor header pin 2 and is jumpered to pin 3.

It should look like the first picture on this page of Bob Roberts.

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/sync.html

I'll follow your guidance and try and turn the brightness down, but I still can't understand why there's no maze and the colour is still wrong ?

Level42 · « **Reply #59 on:** April 19, 2009, 05:54:41 pm »

Yes that's all correct. Not sure about the sync wires though (edge connector pin 17) but since it's working fine now, leave it....

There are many things that can cause the colors to work or not. I'd like to see a pic when you've turned the screen pot down a bit, it's hard to tell what colors are there at all.

It could be potmeters that are set wrong, bad solderings, bad caps, bad traces, you name it. Not to discourage you, it could also be pretty simple.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #60 on:** April 20, 2009, 05:22:11 am »

Yes, I turned the brightness down, but it doesn't make any difference to the colours at all. Still no 'blue' maze outline and the colours are still not right.

I'm getting the cap kit fitted soon and I have a new Flyback transformer as well.

What I did notice today, I played the first board (be it with no maze outline) and when the board was cleared, the maze 'flashes' white 3 times (as it should).
It was then I can see the actual maze. So, the blue element is missing, amongst other colours. They seem mixed up to me.

This monitor thing is turning out to be WAY more difficult than the restoration itself ! $:-\$

Level42 · « **Reply #61 on:** April 20, 2009, 04:48:29 pm »

Yeah, shadow should be the red ghost. Looks kinda yellow now....

SirPeale · « **Reply #62 on:** April 21, 2009, 05:18:25 pm »

Turn the screen control on the flyback down a hair to get rid of those retrace lines.

As for your missing color, did I read correctly that the blue wire is missing altogether from the harness? Then you'll need that wire.

If that's not the case, you can swap inputs to see if you can get blue to pop up.

I suppose a board issue is also possible.

Level42 · « **Reply #63 on:** April 21, 2009, 06:43:03 pm »

Look at the pics peale, looks like the blue wire is fine, like all the others.....

Pacman83 · « **Reply #64 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:22:38 pm »

Here's the latest on the monitor.

All the video wires have been tested for continuity to the board and are fine.
The wires have been connected as per Electrohome instructions.

Here's the best picture I can obtain -

As you can see, there's no red and the colours are not right.
Any ideas ? Is it now time to send the tube for repair if it's repairable ?

Cheers.

SirPeale · « **Reply #65 on:** April 28, 2009, 11:24:49 am »

Wait...first there was no blue, now there's no red?

Do you have another game you can test the monitor out on?

Have you swapped inputs like I suggested?

Level42 · « **Reply #66 on:** April 28, 2009, 01:06:31 pm »

javeryh · « **Reply #67 on:** April 28, 2009, 02:19:24 pm »

In attract mode why does it also go 200 400 200 400 when Pac-man turns around to eat the ghosts?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #68 on:** April 28, 2009, 03:16:21 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on April 28, 2009, 02:19:24 pm

In attract mode why does it also go 200 400 200 400 when Pac-man turns around to eat the ghosts?

VERY WELL SPOTTED !!!

I think there may be an issue with the PCB then. $:-\$

RayB · « **Reply #69 on:** April 29, 2009, 11:31:51 am »

Umm, maybe you know enough about monitors already but I'll say it anyways, in case it wasn't obvious: Whites and grays are made up of all three colors. For example, low intensity R + same amount of G + same amount of blue will give a gray, while high intensity of all three gives a white. To me, your graphics look like there's high drive on the colors to the point where maybe it looks like no red, but really everything is overdriven.

Check your color drive pots. Set to half way point. Then adjust the main board pots. Then tweak drive pots again... It can take a lot of subtle tweaking, especially if your pots are old and defective.

Spyridon · « **Reply #70 on:** June 17, 2009, 05:32:14 pm »

Any updates on this?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #71 on:** June 19, 2009, 03:35:44 pm »

It's been a while since posting last I know.
I have a monitor on it's way from the U.S soon, a wells Gardner 13" (4800 series) with a fantastic condition tube. It is being re-capped etc by a friend and then sent over to the U.K.

In the mean time, I picked up my joystick bits from the U.S when I was at Funspot in N.H.
I beat my 1983 score there as well LIVE ! Got to the splitscreen in 4hr 55min.
New fibre leaf switches and grommet. Feels GREAT now !!

I'll be updating soon as the monitor's here ........

Level42 · « **Reply #72 on:** June 19, 2009, 05:42:32 pm »

Quote from: Pacman83 on June 19, 2009, 03:35:44 pm

It's been a while since posting last I know.
I have a monitor on it's way from the U.S soon, a wells Gardner 13" (4800 series) with a fantastic condition tube. It is being re-capped etc by a friend and then sent over to the U.K.

You could just as well have picked up a Commodore 1084 monitor for a couple of pounds (or the Philips equivalent of that).......but OK, here's to dedication !

Pacman83 · « **Reply #73 on:** June 20, 2009, 12:03:17 pm »

To be honest, I wasn't that happy NOT having an Electrohome monitor (to keep it authentic) but I suppose the Wells Gardner one is second best.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #74 on:** July 04, 2009, 05:45:25 pm »

The Wells Gardner monitor is in and looks great. NO screenburn whatsoever and it was capped etc by a friend in the US. I have the bezel and glass fitted and I am just waiting to fit a new board edge connector, as the old one is faulty.

I'll post some more pictures as soon as I can, it's worth the wait guys, It's nearly there ...

Pacman83 · « **Reply #75 on:** August 02, 2009, 11:50:12 am »

I had some REAL issues with the electrics ......

I changed the edge connector for a good quality type as some of the connections (crimped type) were coming away and it was about time it had what it deserved.

The PCB was returned from the US (again) as the pisture was just scrambled up and the board was suspected to be the cause. It was tested on a Pac cab there and worked 100%

This is what I saw .

It seemed then, there was a power issue present so I had to do some checks. I am a complete novice here.

I decided to remove the power transformers from the base of the cab in order to carry out a voltage test and test the fuses.
I carried out the fuse test - OK
I carried out the voltage test and it read 11.8v & 6.9v output at the Main transformer. All correct .....

Then I looked at the screen and to my disbelief, the attract screen was working !!!!

Blinky was invisible though and the colours weren't right. I pressed 1 player and tried it out .....
It worked well, but there was no 'up' input from the joystick. I checked the colour and it was WHITE/RED.
I traced the wire on the pin chart and I had it soldered onto the VIDEO - RED/WHITE. Wrong way around .....

That's why there was no red in the colours as it was connected to UP on the joystick pin of the connector. After re-soldering the 2 wires to the correct pins, the cab seems to work great. It has been running for 3 hours now and I have had a little practice. The contacts for the joystick need tweaking a little, but it's VERY good news for me.

The cab is now WORKING guys, after being nearly buried in March, it's now as good as new. Words can't sum up how delighted I am at the moment. I've spent a great deal of time and energy in this project and it's all worth the while now. I've attached a short video clip to show it running and will post a high quality video when the cab is completely finished.

VERY HAPPY DAYS !!!! Grin

Level42 · « **Reply #76 on:** August 02, 2009, 01:47:43 pm »

Congratulations, you should be very proud of it !

Hope this tastes like more cabs for you

Epyx · « **Reply #77 on:** August 02, 2009, 01:52:52 pm »

Congrats! Fantastic job!

Pete Rittwage · « **Reply #78 on:** August 17, 2009, 09:59:58 pm »

Really, really nice work!

One thing, though. Doesn't the original Pac-Man cabaret have the little red buttons for Start1/Start2 instead of the big white buttons like you have?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #79 on:** August 20, 2009, 11:22:20 am »

Quote from: Pete Rittwage on August 17, 2009, 09:59:58 pm

Really, really nice work!

One thing, though. Doesn't the original Pac-Man cabaret have the little red buttons for Start1/Start2 instead of the big white buttons like you have?

... No

Even the parts & operating guide shows the original with white buttons, the exact same as the Upright. Here's the finished pictures.

javeryh · « **Reply #80 on:** August 20, 2009, 12:15:21 pm »

This thing looks brand-freaking-new. Awesome job.

Chicken McNobody · « **Reply #81 on:** August 20, 2009, 01:22:37 pm »

Simply stunning, I love the look of this cabinet, I can't wait to finish my cabaret mini project. . .

Pacman83 · « **Reply #82 on:** August 20, 2009, 01:39:33 pm »

Thanks guys

It's difficult to sum up just how much satisfaction this restoration has given me.
From playing Pac Man in the early 80's, then for nearly 25 years, not playing and to return to gaming and beat my 1983 record live at Funspot XI is a dream come true.
I'm using my cab for practice and then attending Funspot when I can to challenge my U.K record.

When I saw this cab in London, it was sat in a dark corner and was covered in rubbish. It was a little sad for me and I made the decision there and then to bring it back to life. I fully intended to do the business, to the very best of my ability and I studied the internet for ideas and did my research before starting.
I hope I have done this fantastic game the credit it deserves and gave it my best.

It has had it's ups & downs of course, but it's been worth every minute. The help and support you guys have given has indeed encouraged my efforts.
I will post some high resolution images and some video footage of the cab in the very near future.

Epyx · « **Reply #83 on:** August 20, 2009, 02:11:48 pm »

I think its pretty cool how you have come full circle with this game..at the risk of sounding epic (aka uber geeky) it was almost like you were destined to restore this cab...

Fantastic job!

shred5 · « **Reply #84 on:** September 02, 2009, 01:52:49 pm »

Very nice job.. well done..

Dave

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #85 on:** September 02, 2009, 02:40:38 pm »

Pacman83 · « **Reply #86 on:** September 05, 2009, 11:40:15 am »

Many thanks.

I'm going to a Classic Retro meeting next week in Huddersfield, so I'll get some shots of the cab in an 'Arcade' enviroment. I bet the cab never thought it would find it's way back 'home' again.

Majoraslayer · « **Reply #87 on:** September 05, 2009, 02:36:22 pm »

Thats pretty sweet!

Just out of curiosity, did you re-try your old monitor after fixing the wiring problem just to see if it works?

Pacman83 · « **Reply #88 on:** September 05, 2009, 08:02:00 pm »

Quote from: Majoraslayer on September 05, 2009, 02:36:22 pm

Thats pretty sweet!

Just out of curiosity, did you re-try your old monitor after fixing the wiring problem just to see if it works?

That's a great point

Well not yet. Purely because the replacement Wells Gardner one has been completely installed and although I know there's not that much involved to try the original Electrohome one out, it'll be a little bit inconvenient right now.
I have a feeling though that it may be OK though ...... now that would be sweet. Watch this space, I'll let you know

Pacman83 · « **Reply #89 on:** September 19, 2009, 02:28:12 pm »

I took the cab straight from the shed, where it's been since it arrived, to an event in Huddersfield, England called Retro Reunited. To see the guys playing it amongst the few other cabs there was really sweet.

It was very popular and you can see it being played in this link to the show (the cab is after 3min 20sec) -

http://www.youtube.com/user/RetroGamerDaz#play/uploads/5/d6MDAnObeoU

Here's some pictures of the cab when I got it home and FINALLY got it in it's new home, the lounge.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #90 on:** September 25, 2009, 02:13:20 pm »

Anyone know where I can get a Midway identification plate for the rear of the cab ?
It was missing when I bought it.

Cheers

Spyridon · « **Reply #91 on:** September 25, 2009, 02:59:31 pm »

ThisOldGame had them but they are out of stock. I'm not aware of anyone else having them. I looked and couldn't find one.

Level42 · « **Reply #92 on:** September 28, 2009, 02:55:08 pm »

You sir, have just been rewarded the first official RESTOREY.

The RESTOREY is awarded to people who have done a restoration that:

a) is beyond doubt and discussion extremely beautifully done
b) is well documented on this forum
c) is finished

Regretfully, there is no prize attached to it (yet?) other than "Eternal Fame".

Congratulations !

Spyridon · « **Reply #93 on:** September 29, 2009, 09:13:44 am »

Quote from: Level42 on September 28, 2009, 02:55:08 pm

You sir, have just been rewarded the first official RESTOREY.

Hey, I thought I got the first unofficial one last year?

This is a great restoration. Very well done!

Level42 · « **Reply #94 on:** September 29, 2009, 12:36:15 pm »

Yeah, well you know how this goes, commissions, meetings, management approval. But it's all done now. And the entire committee (me) decided he deserved it.

I think you Spyridon deserve a couple of RESTOREY's....let's see if I can find the threads....

Pacman83 · « **Reply #95 on:** October 01, 2009, 03:52:43 pm »

Many thanks for the recognition.
It was a joy to do this restoration, even the annoying glitches were worth it as I learnt a great deal.

Pacman83 · « **Reply #96 on:** January 13, 2010, 01:57:01 pm »

Hi guys,

The cab has been absolutely perfect since the restore, even my 2 Brother-in-laws had a blast over the New Year and was really great to see

Just one issue, that's the 5 wedge lamps behind the marque. It was suggested to me that 5w pinball lamps would be sufficient, but I knew the voltage was too low. Anyway, I tried them, but 1 by 1 they blew and now I have to purchase the correct ones.
Anyone know somewhere to buy the correct ones ?

Cheers
Jon.


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