NPs Star Wars

[Daviea]

Does anyone have the dimensions of the spacer bearing? David has used all his stock for the yoke orders (good news to the dirty dozen), and my game is basically unplayable until I get a spacer in there. I was thinking of crafting something temporary out of PVC pipe until David has a chance to make another run.

HEY NP!!!

Lookie what I made just because you asked:



I ran off another 600 of these just for you!!  Wait, how many did you want again??  LOL

David Adams
RAM Controls

[Neverending Project]

I ran off another 600 of these just for you!!  Wait, how many did you want again??  LOL

I'll take 599. Oh wait, sorry. Did the math wrong. How about 1?

[Level42]

A small update for this one... I rebuilt the A/R II board the other night, since I already had the kit. When I pulled the board and examined it, it was in excellent condition and the solder on the back was actually still shiny. I decided to only replace the electrolytic caps, instead of replacing the transistors as well. After all, the power all tested fine anyway, I was just performing some preventative maintenance on it.

All went well except for one of the larger caps which I inadvertantly installed backwards. I had a weird suspicion about it too... I always double-check the orientation before I pull the old cap, and then I only install one at a time checking them off as I go. In this case I pulled two since they were right next to each other, and they were the same size and all. Well after I pulled them, I forgot which way they went (even though I double checked before pulling them), and the "+" sign on the PCB was ambiguous. So i did my best at matching the new ones with the old ones, even going as far as holding the old ones back on the board and comparing dust "traces".

I was wrong. It turned out they were installed in opposite directions, even though they were right next to each other. I had already re-installed the baord and began testing the game before I realized this. I pulled the board, fixed the cap (I turned it around since there were no signs of failure and it tested good on my DMM) and re-installed. The game still didn't work... Drat.

A little stress and googling later, I found that it had blown two 4-Amp slo-blow fuses in the power supply. to my luck I had exactly two 4-Amp slo-blow fuses left in my reserves. I replaced them, powered it up, and all was good. Phew.

Oh, and I replaced the Big Blue too (with a Big Black). I am stalling on the temporary yoke spacer bearing because David said he will be making some more very soon. I am considering slipping a piece of paper or something in there in the meantime to prevent the bumpers from sticking, so I don't have to pull the yoke apart two more times.

I usually don't replace transistors when they're working, I really don't see the reason.
Possible exception are the deflection transistors.

I made the same mistake like you when working on my first AR-2. It's because of that that one cap is used for the negative voltage, so the + and - seem to be "wrong" on the board. Luckely I discovered it before powering up.

[Spyridon]

Lookie what I made just because you asked:



I ran off another 600 of these just for you!!  Wait, how many did you want again??  LOL

David Adams
RAM Controls

Hmmm...I wonder if that works for me?

David - I would like a fully assembled and playable SW cockpit for under $1000 (delivered).  I promise to give you a great review!