Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
NPs Star Wars
Level42:
Yes the boards should stay connected after pulling it out of the cage, but keep an eye on the interconnect board. And sure you can run it like you suggest.
What do the thee LED's do on the main board ? They should be lit for a second or two and then go off.
Neverending Project:
--- Quote from: Level42 on April 27, 2009, 01:08:24 am ---Yes the boards should stay connected after pulling it out of the cage, but keep an eye on the interconnect board. And sure you can run it like you suggest.
What do the thee LED's do on the main board ? They should be lit for a second or two and then go off.
--- End quote ---
I'll try the test points on the PCB set next. But I have noticed through the cage that the LEDs stay lit while there is power. They do not go out, like you suggest.
Level42:
Sounds like the main board CPU is not running to me. Not to dispare you, but that could be about anything.
You'll need this if you want to do any furhter investigations:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Star_Wars/Star_Wars_SP-225_1st_Printing_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf
Neverending Project:
OK, I dove in to try out my comprehension skills with the trouble-shooting guide. First up, I pulled the PCBs out and checked all the voltages I could find. Everything looked good. Next I disconnected the sound board and was on the hunt for all the various clocks so I could test them with my logic probe. After hunting for a while, I noticed that the three LEDs on the main PCB were no longer lit. I cycled the power power on the machine and sure enough they lit briefly, and then went out - as expected.
So I rushed to the front of the machine to see it it would play blind. I didn't hear anything, and couldn't get it to coin up. I tried different positions on the test switch, but still no voice. The main PCBs were still not lit (e.g. good). That's when I realized that I still hadn't reconnected the sound board. So I reconnected it, and rushed back to the front.
Now I hear a bunch of strange test tones, and realize that the game must be in test mode. I flip the switch, check the LEDs (still good) and try to coin up a game. SUCCESS! It plays blind again. I guess in all the PCB disconnecting and reconnecting, I must have re-seated something that wasn't making a good connection before.
So I still can't see anything, but the spot killer is off. Now this is when I realize that I had disconnected the monitor previously. I reconnect it, power up the game, check the PCB LEDs (still good), and check the spot killer (NOT lit). Nice. The game still plays, but it is blind. THere is nothing to be seen on the monitor, but I can hear the crackling.
Phew. This is a big relief that the boards are working. Now I can focus on trouble-shooting the monitor. I will get a kit from bob roberts - any recommendation on which kit I should get? Or should I wait and do a little trouble-shooting first?
Level42:
--- Quote from: Level42 on April 26, 2009, 01:59:04 pm ---Something to check after transport: the interconnection board between the three PCB's.
--- End quote ---
;D ;D ;D
It really comes loose relatively easy because of those large boards.
Congrats. Did you notice that all 16 beeps were hi-pitched ? If so, the basic tests are all passed.
Buy a LV6100 or LV2000. Get a cap-kit from bob including the transistors it's not that more expensive than without.
Check if the LED on the deflection board is on (I bet it is). If so, you're on the same path as Spyridon. Check all solderings and tracks around the connectors on the deflection board first.
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