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Arcade Odyssey - FINISHED! (vid)
blind_dado:
Yes, all the joints are 45 degress, made with a router bit. See below, and my explanation that follows.
1) This is what the ideal joint would look like if you beveled the edge of one of the boards in the joint. It creates a lip on the inside, but that doesn't matter and is really pretty small.
2) This is more realistic to what I actually got, which is a gap because of imperfections in the allignment.
3) No problem, I used wood fill (bondo) and then just rounded off the whole joint with some sandpaper.
Now, to get even more "realistic." I was using 3/4" MDF, and you really can't get a 45 degree chamfer bit for a router that will go all the way through the edge (they're just too big for a handheld router). Instead, I got a lip on the routered board that looks something like the top drawing below. But no problem. First I sanded off the lip on the inside before gluing the two pieces together, and then I used bondo and sandpaper on the outside edge. These imperfections are exagerated in the drawing, and the result was a nice smooth curve.
BTW, the same idea is used where the speaker panel met the small piece where the marquee is, but I didn't chamfer either piece. That left a big gap (as you can see in the Google Sketchup) but that wasn't a problem because nobody sees that part. I just filled it with Bondo and wood glue. The result was great.
I should add that the whole cabinet was built with dado joints, so the OTHER edges of these boards were firmly secured in dado joints. The joint that is pictured above was not that important to the structure. It was mostly cosmetic.
[EDIT] I should also add that most of the gap is actually filled by the wood glue (Titebond III) and only a small bit had to be filled with bondo.
brentshelton:
Maybe I am just seeing things, but if I look at the 3rd picture on your page under The Finished Product link it looks like something covering where the monitor glass meets the wood the speakers are mounted to.
blind_dado:
It's just a reflection in the monitor glass. Take a look at this picture. It has it's own weird reflection that makes it look like the glass comes off of the speaker panel in the middle, but it doesn't. If you look at the corner where the glass meets the cab side and the speaker panel, you'll see that they form a tight fit. The glass is against the speaker panel all the way across the front of the cab.
Gamester:
(Hopefully you're still roaming around here and will actually see this post...)
Fantastic looking cab, and I really appreciate all of the documentation on your website!
I was hoping to solicit your thoughts on your hi-res CRT monitor, and why you chose it over a model that supports the lower, more common arcade resolutions?
Yours looks gorgeous in the videos. I'm torn between a model like yours (VGA, SVGA, XGA) and something like the WG D9800. I'm curious about your opinion on how it looks when running the old games like DK, Centipede, Pac-Man, etc.? What resolution do you use for those old CGA games?
Since you've had it for a while now, any other observations or input is greatly appreciated!
blind_dado:
Glad you like the cab! I still play it every night.
I went with the higher-res so that I could play PC games, but it turns out that I never put it into the 1024x768 mode and run it at 800x600 all the time (mame and PC). It's just easier that way and I don't like the strain it puts on the moniter when it changes resolutions. And it turns out that that PC games look more "arcady" at 800x600 anyway, and I like them better that way. Oh, and the old school games look fantastic.
So, if I had it to do over again, I would just go for a crt that had 800x600 max res.
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