Author Topic: Project : C-MACC'S 2 - (update - Subzero Cooling Phase change -50 c) (Read 32241 times)

mayhem · « **Reply #40 on:** March 10, 2009, 01:44:25 pm »

They are at a 45 degree angle and the lower button will be the flipper and the higher button will be the Nudge. When you stand at a Arcade system you find that you leaning forward a little to play games and your arms are at a angle so even though you middle finger is longer than you second finger because your angled your fingers are naturally allied to the buttons.

mayhem · « **Reply #41 on:** March 14, 2009, 03:55:42 pm »

Well i Primed the CP (gray) and sanded it down with grade 200 wet and dry and it now has a near perfect smooth finish ready for the first black coat. all so got some Plastic for the top. Ive routed it into shape and it's ready to be fitted. I used a very low setting for the router and it made prefect shape of the Cp. Problem is while routing i knocked and smashed my camera on the floor. So no pics atm. Need to sort out my camera.

All so been doing some other work but its mainly little fiddle bits that are not worth chatting about lol ....

mayhem · « **Reply #42 on:** March 19, 2009, 02:16:15 pm »

Some Guides i made for installing PCB's

J-Pac Guide

2 Player I-Pac

Pac Drive

Opti Pac Guide

mayhem · « **Reply #43 on:** March 24, 2009, 02:09:19 pm »

Time for a small Update.

Well i have put in the shelfs and allso been working on the Doors for the front.

Here you can see the work done on the front.

I then did the door with White plastic Spay can undercoat as per OMDs build logs and then the surrounding frame with black plastic under coat. Once that had dried i used Grit 2000 wet and dry and sanded down . I then did a fine mist of white on the black and black on the white and again rubbed it down with 2000 Grit wet and dry. This revealed a fair few dimples and large deep air lines marks on the wood so i filled them and sanded it down again. I then re undercoated it all.

Iafter 24 hours in the airing cupboard and a pre warning to every one in the house to stay out i then pulled them out to find a grate big dent across one of the door (was i annoyed i think so) My kids had thrown in some plastic toys and damaged them ...

So again after filling and redoing the under coat and another 24 hours i then used Gloss white car spay paint on the doors and Matt black on the frame work. And again after sanding down with 2000 Grit wet and dry and re doing it all again a few times i then left them 24 hours to harden ad dry but this time i fitted a lock on the airing cupboard to stop any mishaps lol ....
#
Once the 24 hours was up i then re sanded them down with 2000 grit wet and dry and applied several coats of clear Lacquer and left them for 8 hours and then wet and dried and re lacquered them. Once that was done and dryed after 24 hours i then fitted the locks.

I still need to polish them but ill do that laster on. Pics below ...

javeryh · « **Reply #44 on:** March 24, 2009, 02:15:41 pm »

Wow dude - nice job on those doors. Any chance you could provide links to the paint you used? Was it just spray from a can or do you have a paint gun? Looks factory fresh!

mayhem · « **Reply #45 on:** March 24, 2009, 02:23:08 pm »

Spay can from a normal car shop. The Paint was the following

hycote -

Plastic Coat black Filler / primer
Plastic Coat white Filler / primer
Matt Black Acrylic
Gloss White Acrylic
Clear Lacquer Acrylic

There still not perfect as from a distance you can still see if you look carefully some small signs off wood grain all though ive tried my best to remove the signs its made of wood. There is mainly quite allot of painting and sanding hence why my updates haven't been in a while.

javeryh · « **Reply #46 on:** March 24, 2009, 03:28:23 pm »

I know your pain, believe me. I'll have to check that stuff out on something small like a fight stick. I love the look when it is finished but it's debatable whether it is worth the effort... well, of course it is worth it looking back but man when you are in the middle of it...

Ond · « **Reply #47 on:** March 24, 2009, 07:15:13 pm »

Very clean! That final polish will bring them up looking a treat. I love the black and white, it really suits the style of the cab. It is exhausting getting the nice finish but definitely worth it.

mayhem · « **Reply #48 on:** March 24, 2009, 08:05:06 pm »

hehe Ond mate i because of you they look so nice.. Im dreading doing the back box .. lol . Im only going to do the out side though and ill just use normal paint on the inside as consoles are going inside and it would scratch to hell lol ... Ive t cutted them now and polished them down and the white is a lovely deep white and the black is a Moodish less shiny dark black. I didn't what to make the black to shiny as it would just look to shiny if you know what i mean.

The back of both doors are just triple painted black with normal wood pain to keep them free from bad stuff. No point going onver bord on the back its just a waste of time and money lol .

The door them selfs and 2 cans of white pain and 2 cans of varnish and 3 cans of Plastic coat on them now lol ...

tryed to take photos now of the door and well my camera will not focus on them lol ,,,,,

mayhem · « **Reply #49 on:** March 25, 2009, 11:46:06 am »

Just placed a order for this.

Looking forward to implementing this into the CP.

mayhem · « **Reply #50 on:** March 30, 2009, 11:10:28 am »

I had to change the moniter to a VGA connection version.

So i have orderd this from http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/

Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T

Now for the specs

Specifications:

MODEL:EBY701-NP/C/T
COLOR SYSTEM:PAL-4.43 / NTSC-3.58
DISPLAY SCREEN: Diagonal 7 inches/ 178mm (15:9)
DOTS PIXELS:1152000 pixels(800*480)
AUDIO OUTPUT: ≥100mW
CONTRAST RATIO:200:1
BRIGHTNESS: 400cd/m2
VIEWING ANGLE: 45/60(U/D),65/65(L/R)
INPUT VOLTAGE: DC 11-13V
POWER CONSUMPATION: ≤10W
DIMENSION (mm): 192×115×30

Now after much research i found that the 800*480 is just the moniters Res. Ill be running it at 800*600 giving me full scope to run it with GameEX.

Ill post more info and pics of this excelent peace of eqipment once it arrives.

mayhem · « **Reply #51 on:** March 31, 2009, 05:32:37 am »

Working on another panel, this time its the base panel.

Again we start buy getting a send belt sander and then using 100 Git run it over the whole board. This rips up the rubbish revealing all the pits and tears and holes. Then using filler i fill what i can see and trust me what i can see is only half of what is there.

Pic's of the wood before i start -

First set of filler layerd down

Then i sand it down with set and dry 180 Grit and then take another look. Again there is still loads of pits and holes so off i go again filling and sanding. I had to do this 5 times and it took about 3 hours to do.

1st coat of filler / primer and again more filler.

3rd primer filler and sanding.

Once i was fairly happy i then used Prim filler and undercoat from a spay can and then give it a good spay over. I do this 4 times at 15 min intervals. Once its dried i look again and fill all the holes and pit with filler and then again sand down with 180 grit wet and dry. Once the ready i then layer over 3 more coats of filler / primer. This takes about 40 min to do. And again I look for more bits and holes and marks and again i do the same as before. All in all its takes about 12 hours to do to get its close as possible to what i would call near flat.
5th sander filler and priming....

Getting there ....

mayhem · « **Reply #52 on:** March 31, 2009, 09:22:06 am »

Added 1 coat of plastic primer after sanding down with 1200 Grit wet and dry.

then a second coat again sanded with wet and dry 1200 grit after 1/2 hour

and then stuck in the airing cubord for 24 hours .....

mayhem · « **Reply #53 on:** April 01, 2009, 12:49:40 pm »

Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T

Well My little Lilliput arrived from http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/ today. I must admit I'm very happy with it. there are a couple of niggles but these can easily be overcome. Any way on with a small review of the item in question the Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T.

Delviery.
The screen came well packed in a over sized box. First it had Bubble warp around it then polasyrene Peanuts. This was excellent and only took 2 days to arrive. Thank you to http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/ , some places like to make you wait so that a big plus point.
The Box on the outside doesn't really contain that much info and is a pretty normal boxed LCD. There is a Photo on the front that has a picture but this is not of the actual tft screen its of another screen the HR 701-NP which got me a little confused at first as i did not order that version. Photos below of the box.

Whats inside the box
on opening the box you get a small flap with "Car Entertainment world" Written across it. On opening this flap you get to see it all neatly in place and well sealed up and a nice piece of paper warning you to check everything before you remove the seals. If you remove the seals and something is missing you will get a restock Charge of 25% which would equate to Approx a £40 charge this is quite a stark realty check. It all so Warns that if the seal is broken then the screen the warranty is Void (Consider it Void before i even opened the box) .... Taking note of these pre warnings i then put it to the side.
Below you can see a nice selection of cables and the wrapped TFT Touch screen. You get the following Items with the screen.
•   VGA extension lead with USB adapter
•   AVI / Sound / VGA Brake out lead
•   Docking station for the screen with a Sticker on it for mounting on dashboards if you so require.
•   Small remote control
•   UK power adapter rated at 12V * 200 Milliamps
•   A cigarette Lighter Power Supply with Suppressor (nice to see)
•   Black and white Manuel
•   Driver CD for touch screen interface.

Once all the packing was removed and checked for damaged i took a look at the screen it self. Now the screen feels quite heavy which is a good sign and feels quite robust. The buttons have a nice solid click to them when depressed and are raised about 1 mm from the surface. You can see the IR receiver is Just above the buttons on the right which doesn't look out of place and is in a good position. I hate receivers at the bottom of the screen as sometimes you have to lower the remote for it to work correctly. One thing i was suppressed not to find was a protective plastic layer over the screen itself.

On the back side there isn't that much to see. You get the Sticker with the model no but there is no serial number which was different. On the left hand side you can see the Brake out cable input as well as the power supply plug point. You can all so see the speaker holes to the left on the back plate. and the mounting point for the dash board mount. One thing i noticed straight away was there are plenty of air vents dotted around the back and again this is good to see. All so there is a Styles' holder on the back left with a styles inside.

Will update after my tea ....

mayhem · « **Reply #54 on:** April 02, 2009, 09:05:04 am »

Oky more info on the Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T from http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/.
The brake out cable for the touch screen is very well made it has 2 Wings that you depress to fit the lead to the monitor. It is very good as once it is fitted it is going no ware fast. The powe cable is standard and has none of these features.
Photo of the lead.....

The pen
Once thing im not to impressed with is the Pen that comes with the system. after a little play i found the pen feels like it is scratching the surface of the screen and feels real cheap in dead. After 2 times of pulling it out of it recess of the back of the screen it then became lose. The pen now doesn't seem to hold its place very well. So my advice would be to go out and buy some nice pens for the Nintendo ds instead as these feel much smoother but will not fit in the back which is a shame.

The remote control.
To my surprise it also came with a remote which i didn't see till it fell out of the box from its hidden recess. Now the remove is a very cheaply made remote. It can turn off and on the monitor and flick between the av / Tv settings quite easily. At distance its to say the least a bit dodgy mind you saying that its not a bad thing as these were made for a car not a living room so its not a big problem. One thing ill say which may sound a little wired is that it did not change over my 42" Samsung TV in my living Room. Why did i say that .... well its because i have several MP3 player's that have these cheap controls and when playing with them in the past they have turned over East Enders (which does not impress my lass) this one didn't do that thank god ...
Pictures of the remote... (ill take some after as ive just found it lol)

Installation of the Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T.
One thing that was missing from the box is the fact it doesn't come with a DVI to VGA converter but to be honest at the price its cost it is defiantly not a deal breaker. You can get you off line for as little as £1.50 if you look round or by asking at your local computer supplier. Now the Brake out cable comes in two sections. There is a din style plug on the end that connects the VGA brake out section. All you do is screw this together. Again nice idea as this stops it from being pulled apart. The total length of the cable is approx 4 foot which is a good length. This can be extended with a monitor extension cable. There is also Audio in built into the cable(mono only) but these are only a few cm long so you'll need to get a extension cable for them if you like to use the sound on the screen. I won't be testing the sound as i have no need to use it. There is all so 2 yes 2 RCA jacks for video. I presume these are for extra systems on a car for the likes of reversing and the like. But that is handy to know for maybe a hidden 3rd screen for system setting and such things

...

USB - 4 wire retentive Touch screen system and software.
On the brake out able there is a USB 2 cable that attaches to the PC for the Touch screen system. Do not install this until you have used the driver cd and installed your drivers . Now for a list of supported systems that the software supports ...
•   Windows 98 SE, ME, NT, 2000, Xp , Xp 64, Vista 32, Vista 64, Dos (in fact all MS OS's)
•   Linux
•   Mac
•   Windows CE
•   Embedded XP
•   HP Digitizer 32 and 64
•   QNX Neutrino RTOS v6.3
(now come on this is excellent i think some Hardware makers need to take note of this company)
The CD also contains OLD drivers and PD Documents for the system and even teaches you how to build your own modules for Linux (My lass had to revive me after i saw that).....
Now the software is created by eGalax - http://210.64.17.162/web20/eg/drivers.htm (Driver there) Just in case you need them. Latest Version is 5.0.1.5310.
Ill not go into the software to much but it contains every you need to get the system up and running and works well. I have tested on Xp , Xp 64, Vista and Vista 64 without any problems what so ever.

More to come on the screen

javeryh · « **Reply #55 on:** April 02, 2009, 09:08:47 am »

Sorry if I missed it but what is the screen for?

mayhem · « **Reply #56 on:** April 02, 2009, 09:53:01 am »

!) Juke Box mode. Touch the screen and play that tune
2) Extra info during mame - Screen shots , Marquee, Cabs, ect ect
3) Extra info for games
4) System Info
5) Touch screen games
6) Nitendo DS

..........

The list is endless. Oh to have some thing not many other have ... lol

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61QsSA5t7D8[/youtube]

P.s This is why game ex rocks ............

Bender · « **Reply #57 on:** April 02, 2009, 11:20:36 am »

pretty slick!

mayhem · « **Reply #58 on:** April 02, 2009, 11:15:55 pm »

On with some painting .

The base bord was then smoothed down with wet and dry 1200 grit and then painted with Black spray paint.

after 4 coats of black paint and then sanded down with 2000 grit wet and dry.

Then i layerd 6 coats of Varnish on the wood and wet and dryed each coat with 2000 Grit wet and dry and then once it all had dryed after 24 hours added the rails.

As you can see the rails extend right out and this is how the pc will be fully accessable from the front of the cab. To add to that the Rail allso unclip off allowing the Pc tray to be un hooked and worked on with out the need to be near the cab

...

Gatsu · « **Reply #59 on:** April 03, 2009, 11:59:22 am »

thats gonna be sweet man.

I'm gonna have to steal that idea for my cab. Put the rails on the base of the case, add a top board that the PCB's are all mounted to, and have the front of the case open and hang from support chains.

mayhem · « **Reply #60 on:** April 05, 2009, 09:45:59 am »

Thks Gatsu any one can steal my idears lol .....

Bad wood working skills test fiiting the TS to a CP. Its a little tight but it goes lol ..

Had to lose the warrenty though

.... Speaker has been remove and the back pannel has gone to boot as well. Ive sticky taped the back PCB to the back of the screen to hold it into place. that babys is going no ware fast i can tell you.

This is not the final (could be though) but more over giveing me idears how to fit it.

mayhem · « **Reply #61 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:03:30 pm »

Well a few more updates.

I've been working in the crazy British weather. One min it dry and lovely next is pissing down with rain and boy does that annoy some one whose just spent a few hours spay painting. Any way on with the show as such ...

To start off with I Painted the top Sliding draw for the PC to fit on and then after a few days of it hardening in the airing cupboard i proceed to use T-Cut and polish on the wood to get a smooth deep shine.

After a few about 20 min of letting the polish filtrate i then give it a good rub down with a cloth.

As you would expect it has a nice deep fish to it.
Next I proceed with the Touch screen Cp and sanded it down and then undercoated it a few times. Pics of it in different stages below.

The low and behold it started to rain ... arrrrrr...

After drying it down and waiting for the rain to stop i then did a quick sand down with 1200 grit wet and dry and then spayed plastic coating over the top.

The once that is dry you supposed to wait 24 hours lol ... did i hell. I then started to paint it.

mayhem · « **Reply #62 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:09:55 pm »

This is the vairous stages of layering paint on the lcd CP ...

Then off to dry in the airing cuboard

mayhem · « **Reply #63 on:** April 09, 2009, 12:39:58 pm »

Another load of build pics for you to looks at. First we have the LCD mock yp set up and then its been layered with varnish. There is how ever still some damage to the system due to the lovely British weather but that's just life. im sure once my kids get their hands on it it would be worse ...

mayhem · « **Reply #64 on:** April 09, 2009, 12:47:22 pm »

Then i fixed the LCD section to the base CP and then re sprayed it a few more times ..

Once that was all dry i then polished it down. you'll notice some damaged due to the weather but that is just life and since there i need to put a graphics and also a plastic over the top its not to much of a problem.

mayhem · « **Reply #65 on:** April 09, 2009, 02:14:13 pm »

and to complete this round. here are some photos of hopefully what its starting to look like....

Stub · « **Reply #66 on:** April 10, 2009, 12:43:37 am »

Is the Screen friction fit or is there some mount point?

Im loosely considering using that unit. Do you think taking the back plate off, routing a pocket and drilling screw holes to match. Then you could use longer matching bolts to hold it in place.

Otherwise I am thinking of an aluminum bracket and plastic standoffs to screw to.

How thick is it with the back cover off?

mayhem · « **Reply #67 on:** April 10, 2009, 03:34:36 am »

I just used it as a push fit (friction) be careful though with the back off the frame of the ts becomes very unsteady and to much pressure will brake the screen.. the wood braces it in and it will go no further back. I removed the back as the mounting point for the Stand that normally fit the car stand come into contact with the cp. Meaning its to thick so by removing the back and then hot glueing the PCB to the back of the screen it mounts in perfectly giving me just 4 mm of room left. U save off approx 4 to 6mm from the size of the screen by taking off the back. Mind you you all so lose the warranty as well. So my advice is not to do it unless you like throwing £135 down the drain.

The screen is mounted at a 45 deg angle so you get a optimum view to the screen when you look down at it. and all so is perfect for using as a touch screen system. Ive seen people put screen in computers all the time but they don't do it properly and the screen is fine if your a midget looking on your knees at it lol but other wise just a useless show off peace. the idea for this is to be of some real use and complement the system as a whole and make it more user friendly.

Im still working out the bugs atm with it and i am having to use and create a lot of macros to move things about to set screen sizes and spit screens for proms as they don't do it automatic. The biggest problem is if you change res for any reason then the TS loses sync and has to be redone again.

What ever you do though DO NOT get a software based TS else when you come to play moves or any thing open GL / Direct x biased it will not work. I had to do quite a of of research before i got this particular screen. The software based ones are fine for maybe a bit of msn or yahoo apps but any thing past the basics there no good.

this is the model i went for

http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,154/category_id,46/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,26/

its quite a impressive peace of kit for what you pay compared to some of the higher priced models and works very well. There are full metal frame version but your looking in the access of £200 + vat + delivery. All so they hare hard wired 12 volts systems. This inst and can be used via a 12 volt DC adapter that comes with it or a cigarette lighter socket which you then can splice into and tap into your 12V supply on you pc providing you have enough duce left over to run it.

I all so advise toy to run it direct from a USB 2 port or though a powered hub to get the best from the 4 wire touch screen. All so make sure you update the drivers (don't use the ones that come with it there a tad dodgy)...

mayhem · « **Reply #68 on:** April 11, 2009, 07:04:53 pm »

Just got my 1/2 bugged camera back so here some photos of the cp so far. Hopefully there a little better.

If fitted some more stuff but there is still a lot more work to do.

Stub · « **Reply #69 on:** April 11, 2009, 07:44:01 pm »

Hmm, when you disassembled the display do you think it is possible to remove the front plastic case as well and mount the screen using its normal mount points?

I am considering a screen for my panel, but I think the front bezel and buttons are not necessary, Are the buttons on their own pcb?

Also I'm trying to locate a native 800x600 of roughly the same size.

mayhem · « **Reply #70 on:** April 11, 2009, 08:38:31 pm »

800x600 wide screen not possible native at 7" ...

You can discount but your going to need to at least have access to the remote side. You can remove from it cover and hard wire a on/off switch to the system. i Didn't go that was as i think its looks fine the way it is.

Stub · « **Reply #71 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:40:32 pm »

If you apply 12V power to it will it come on by itself, or do you also have to press its power button? I am kind of assuming you could leave the buttons under the Panel for adjustments, but not normally need them.

I haven't found one yet, but I assume that someone has a stranded aspect ratio in 7 to 8 inch screens.

I dont want to run non native. Do you get a large loss of crispness pushing a non native res?

mayhem · « **Reply #72 on:** April 12, 2009, 06:24:30 am »

Ah now i would be the worst person to answer that. I need to wear glasses and i don't have any atm.

As far as i know and can tell with my screen its perfect up to 1024 res. any higher its looks oky but i cannot read a thing.

Running it at 1600 looks impressive but is a waste of time.

If you apply 12 V it just goes into standby mode like most LCD's that are build. you need to bring it out of standby mode.

mayhem · « **Reply #73 on:** April 14, 2009, 09:52:54 am »

The Frame is back and i very happy with it. I can now start to crack on with the other bits that need doing. Here is a few PIcs in the state of play its in now any way.

mayhem · « **Reply #74 on:** April 14, 2009, 11:07:11 am »

This is the PC shelf installed and ready to go. as you can see it comes out quite far giving enough room to work on it. It can all so detach and allow the pc to be moved else ware to be worked on. All so close up pics of some of the controls with in the cp. There is still the wiring to do yet but that will be done later on ....

That's all for today. I need to know work on the back box and its going to take some time.

mayhem · « **Reply #75 on:** April 14, 2009, 10:46:54 pm »

Half way through build Video

[youtube]pK8VaJ6lR5Q[/youtube]

Enjoy .....

mayhem · « **Reply #76 on:** April 19, 2009, 03:30:02 pm »

Learning the basics of etching and working on some plastic just to test out my bad skills. ive never done anything like this before so i just jumped in with both feet and made my own dremmel holder and spent 20min testing out my skills .. My god does your arm feel like it's just gone 10 round with some woman's (some men's in today's climate as well) favourite toy ......

p.s I feel my tennis elbow come back very soon !!!!!

Pics below of my rubbish attempts lol ....

Gatsu · « **Reply #77 on:** April 19, 2009, 05:44:19 pm »

thats pretty interesting. I like the alien designs. Where are those gonna go on the cab?

mayhem · « **Reply #78 on:** April 19, 2009, 07:17:34 pm »

thks Gatsu. there not the final aliens. im just learning how to do it for the moment. I have a design in mind but need to get this down with out making mistakes first and practice before i do the rest of the arcade.

The scene will be going on the Cp and the side window for the pc ..

last one for the night ..

severdhed · « **Reply #79 on:** April 19, 2009, 11:19:34 pm »

you must have a steady hand and alot of patience..those look really good.


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news