Main > Project Announcements
Oops! There goes another Mountain Juke Box! (*05/04/2009*) Update
drawfull:
It's looking awesome, though as days go by I'm so glad I don't have to worry about machining acrylic!
Looking at everyone elses and yours it would seem the base vs screen dimension is about 5" high - I reckon we've fit the speakers in my thread in that space and have the correct volume for the sub. This worries me as everyone else is using the dell speaker bar, I'm assuming cos of space restrictinos.
That's why we haven't gone for a detailed IO panel but I'm beginning to have doubts.
Have you considered fitting dedcated speakers in the base area or am I missing something ???
CHEERS!
DaOld Man:
Thanks drawful!
I think my base is 4 1/2" tall.
yes, Im using the dell bar because of space.
I will have an external amp jack on the back, so I can plug in a stereo or even a better set of PC speakers.
The dedicated speakers will be the dell speaker bar.
Ok, another beautiful day and I got a little bit done.
First, here is the speaker bar sitting in the hole I cut out for it.
The hole is a little big, but it shouldnt show after I get the acrylic on it.
I like the grill on the speaker bar, I sure hope I can keep it showing.
Here is a pic of the speaker bar inside the box. I put tape over the port holes to keep dust out.
I also keep the sound bar in a plastic bag when not using it for test fitting. Dust is everywhere in my work area.
I burned up a straight router bit today. (JaveryH, I feel your pain). I thought it was going to catch the wood on fire there was so much smoke:
Here is my I/O panel laid in position on the back of the box. I got the hole cut out for the power entry too (thats what I burned my router bit on. I finished it with the jigsaw):
Here is a shot of the bottom box front:
Here is my service mode switch and external amp jack laying beside the I/O panel.
I also have the holes drilled in the panel for these two devices:
The I/O panel with ethernet jack, service switch, and phono jack installed. It is dusty. You can also see the holes I drilled in the box for this device.
And here it is temporarily mounted for fitting test:
And here is the inside view. I have since cleaned up the rough edges around the holes:
I plan to get some black allen-head bolts to attach everything. I think this will look a lot better than the silver bolts I have now.
jthompson:
Hey that bit looks like mine!
Mine was from a cheap craftsman set that is about 20 years old. Time to get some new ones I guess. The Juke looks like its coming together good. Good work. I am using a dell MB as well for my project. I drilled some holes in the heat sink and used zip ties to fasten the fan after removing the shroud. Seems to work OK so far.
DaOld Man:
Thanks for the kind comments, jthompson!
I cant remember the brand of that bit, but it was a good one. I used it on my rotating monitor project and the first juke box I built. Im sure it was run backwards more than once.
I got some work ironed out that was nibbling on the base of brain today.
First, I laid a magnet shell and a magnet disk between the two rotating pieces. It is a tight fit, so I will have to countersink them a bit. Wont be able to do that until I install the laminate. (Which, BTW, I ordered yesterday. Lowes says it may be a couple of weeks wait on that.)
Here is a pic of the magnets, shells, and disks. I ordered them from the same place Mountain did. (Rockler).
After a lot of thinking about a stop, I came up with this. Its a piece of aluminum angle. I plan to fasten two blocks on the bottom for this piece to contact and stop rotation.
I found that if I stop so the magnets line up to help hold it, it will be about 17 degrees off 90.
Or I could go 17 degrees past 90. Either way Im not too happy with it.
Whats your opinion? stop before 90?
Or after 90?
I havent decided yet what to use for stops. I thought about a small block.
Here is a long piece laid in just for reference. My dog keeps stealing small pieces of MDF that hit the floor, and I hate to cut this piece yet. I thought about using it in the corners of the box.
Im also having the same problem Mountain had with his lazy susan bearing. It rocks back and forth slightly. I dont have the tool he used to fix his. I tried vice grips, but maybe I just ran out of patience. I decided to move on to the top part and leave this alone a bit.
I cut the MDF 15" long. it turned out to be 15 1/16", which may be better, because Im worried that 15" might not be wide enough.
I marked the center of the board and another mark down from the top 7 17/32".
I drilled my 1/4" pivot hole.
Then I got out the mighty circle cutter (inspired by Mountain's design), and proceeded to cut in circles. (Correction: half circles.):
I then marked it out, using Nvts' drawing (adjusting measurements for my width).
I also changed his marquee base width to match the cut out for the monitor width.
I dont know, I still havent decided if I am going with keeping both the same width.
Heres a pic with the marquee cut out marked in pencil, and the powermate knob laying approx where nvts has in his drawing (above marquee base line):
Here is a pic with the knob laying pretty much center of the marquee base line:
What do you think? Im leaning towards knob center of marquee base, but I will have to drop the monitor down more.
Now, another question:
Which do you prefer, the edge of the MDF close to the knob, or a little distance between the edge of the MDf and the edge of the knob?
Here is a pic with lines drawn to illustrate both:
Well, I guess thats it for now.
DaOld Man:
Well, Ive been studying nvts' drawing and it looks like his volume knob is center of the marquee base line.
Looks like he has his marquee base line higher than I do mine.
Im sure glad I didnt fly in and start cutting.
I plan to lay it out again with marquee base higher. Will see how it looks. I think I will print out nvts drawing and take it out to the shed with me tomorrow.
I sure dont need to rely on my memory.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version