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Oops! There goes another Mountain Juke Box! (*05/04/2009*) Update
DaOld Man:
Ok, I woke up early today (I will be paying for it tonight I know), so I decided to do a little more updating.
I had two power supplies that I examined for use on this project.
One was a regular ATX box type Compaq power supply. I wanted to use it because it is pretty much the norm, but I didnt have the room on this project.
So it's off to Ebay to find a power supply made for the slim case Dells.
The power supply is trim and slim, but it had a plastic doo-hickey on the end, which I think is to fasten it to the dell case. But for space's sake, I had to get rid of it.
After scratching my head and drinking a beer over it, I figured the only way to get the piece off was to remove the fan. (I had to break the "warranty is void if this label is broken" seal. Does this mean I cant return it to ebay if it goes bad?)
After removing the fan, the plastic thing came right off.
Now I have a power supply to use on this juke:
(Please dont tell anyone about me breaking the sacred seal.)
Ok, thats about all the pics I have for now. I do have some of the woodwork I have done so far (not much work done yet), but they havent been uploaded to my computer yet.
Take care, and thanks for looking.
logik:
Thats brilliant!! I am using the same Dell motherboard and monitor for my juke, I think i may try mounting my board to the monitor too. :cheers: Hopefully I have some room behind it to do it. I have a few of those Dell power supplies like the one you have pictured. They are extremely quiet and thin, perfect for jukes :)
DaOld Man:
Thanks logik!
Im thinking that this setup would be good for a bartop arcade too.
May be what I use this touch-broken monitor for.
Good luck with your juke, I will be following your progress..
DaOld Man:
Man what a beautiful day.
I had already attempted to make the two pieces that will rotate against each other, but I didnt like the way it turned out.
But I will touch on it a bit.
I cut two pieces of 1/2" MDF, one a 1/2" shorter than the other.
I then marked the center with a chalk line to each corner.
I then set up my circle cutter to cut out the center hole.
I had to route out a space for the bit to clear in the nylon block I used.
I then attempted to mark the holes for the magnets. I have 10 magnets so there needed to be one at every 36 degrees.
This was very hard since I had already cut out the center hole, and I decided to scrap these two pieces and start over.
So I cut two more pieces the same size.
I fastened them together with 4 screws. I marked the top piece again with the chalk line.
My chalk line was a little off on one corner, so the center was off. I corrected it.
I then fastened my protractor with a small nail right to the center mark.
I marked every 36 degrees from 0 to 180.
I then twisted the protractor around and lined it up with the 0 and 180 marks, then I marked out the remaining 36 degree marks.
I then traced the round part of the protractor, making a circle, which gives me a good drill mark on each 36 degree.
I then removed the protractor
I then laid out the lazy susan bearing on a piece of paper, and marked each mounting hole.
I then lined up each hole with a straight edge and marked the center.
I then punched the nail through the center mark and attached the template I had just made to the center hole of the top board. A little piece of tape helped to hole it still.
I then drilled holes for the lazy susan bearing mounts.
The inside holes went through the bottom board.
I drilled the holes very small, and I circled the ones I will use on the top piece.
I also drilled out the magnet holes.
I then used a hole saw to cut out the very center of both pieces.
I then removed the 4 screws and separated the 2 pieces.
I drilled out the holes in the top piece for T-nuts which will fasten the lazy susan to the the top piece.
Here are the two pieces with the lazy susan bearing installed for test purposes.
And here it is rotated a little more than 90 degrees.
After I was satisfied that the magnet holes still lined up in all positions, I separated the two pieces again.
I cut both pieces 15 1/2" in length. But since the skin will add 1/4" to each side of the top, I needed to cut it down a 1/2"
So I put the top in my table saw and cut 1/4" off each end.
I am kinda worried that the 15" is going to be long enough. It will be very close.
I know it doesnt look like I got a lot done today, but I found that my table saw was cutting about a 1/16" out of square, so I had to adjust the blade. I hadnt done this before so I had to find the manual and figure out how to do it.
The manual says it is factory set and shouldnt need adjusting but it told how just in case.
I found one of the locknuts on the adjusting screws was loose, so I guess thats how it got off.
This took me a good hour.
Come on weather, hold out another week or two!
DaOld Man:
Another beautiful day yesterday.
I got the bottom box put together and a plate made out of acrylic.
First, the box.
Here it is, being clamped in my high tech state of the art clamping device:
Another pic for good measure. Notice the mark for the cutout for the power entry module? Something tells me I should have cut this out before gluing the box together.
I could have sworn I took some pictures of the cutout for the dell speaker bar, but I guess I didnt.
I will try to get at least one when I release the box from the clamping device.
Next up is the plate I made out of acrylic. Now this was an experience in itself.
It took me two tries until I got one I liked. Then I had the brilliant idea of trying to polish the 45 degree edge with my dremel tool. The dremel had a cloth like wheel on it, but it took a bite out of the edge of the plate. You can see it on the right side of the plate. I got to try to fix that today.
Cutting out the hole for the Ethernet connector was a real pain too. It's a little "whoppy-jawed" but it's going to have to do.
Thats the RJ-45 Ethernet connector at top of picture.
I plan to install a speaker jack and a switch on this plate.
The speaker jack will be the kind that turns off the speaker bar when you plug in headphones or external amp adapter.
The switch will allow me to start up in Windows for maintenance purposes.
(I installed this type switch on Stevies Juke and I am very happy I did.)
Notes about polishing the edge of the acrylic:
After you cut the 45 degree angle, the router bit leaves terrible marks.
I first used 100 grit sandpaper to take out the big marks.
I then used a dry SOS pad to take out the sandpaper marks. I then used a lot of elbow grease and a dry cloth to rub it slick.
It still doent shine like Mountians did, but I havent bought any of that polish that he used yet. So more to follow...
This plate gave me some good trial experiences.
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