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Nvts’s mountain’s Jukebox (revealed!)
mpm32:
Are you going to mount the speakers without the cabinet backs? If so, you should try them out, all that bass you talked about will most likely be gone without the entire plastic cabinet, which is where they get the bass when using the small drivers.
Nvts:
--- Quote from: mpm32 on December 11, 2008, 11:26:46 am ---Are you going to mount the speakers without the cabinet backs? If so, you should try them out, all that bass you talked about will most likely be gone without the entire plastic cabinet, which is where they get the bass when using the small drivers.
--- End quote ---
Nah, I'm going to leave the speakers as they naturally are, other than the volume knob extension.
Picked up some 16 pin edge connectors, and a 16 wire ribbon wire and a couple packages of D-sub crimp shell contacts male ( ) and went about making the ribbon cable. I don't have what I assume are proper tools to crimp the ribbon cables together, and I ended up braking one of the edge connectors, so I'll have to pick another one up. I can't seem to find any male edge connectors, so I made a couple of 2 inch wires with a contact on each side for the gender change.
I'll pick another connector Monday. If I do get any more time until then, I can keep working on the back panel.
The plan will indeed work though, I'm fairly sure. I was able to test for continuity between the pins that were working, and the board.
DaOld Man:
Could you solder those connectors instead of crimping them?
I know they can be a real pain even if you have the proper crimping tool.
Nvts:
eh, no worries, it can wait till Monday till I get a new end. They are cheap.
Today, I got the rear panel working almost as well as I could want. I did not want to have visible hinges, so I tried out a hidden hinge.
I cut out the panel and a door from my 1/8 plywood.
I put a 1/4 MDF behind the door, and laminated the whole back panel. I trimmed the door to 1/4 inch with a dremmel cutoff wheel, a dremmel sander block, and a metal bar.
When I made my mock up with 1/2 inch mdf, it all seemed like it was going to work great, but I ended up needing 3/4 of an inch, so I rigged up a thicker door. Installed the hinges to a 1 1/2 inch board that was screwed and glued to the frame.
I added another 1 1/2 board (and a extra bit...) to the other side for a double magnet catch.
Door guts:
I temporarily mounted the back panel to do the rough adjustments. It's a little rough, and I'll need to fine tune it once the back is attached the the shell, since the back panel is a bit warped and not cooperating properly. It almost works great though. almost.
I have a feeling that I will just make a new cleaner looking door once time permits, but I am worried about the deadline.
Nvts:
I had glued and screwed the front panel to the shell, and found a few things that made me end up ripping the screen and speaker grill out. Since I didn't keep the inside shell the same width as the front panel shell, this was a whole lot of work. :p I was planning to have the screen held down with a metal strap that was screwed between the two parts. It worked really well, and the screen was much more solid, but it got some dust inside of the screen, and I knew that it would drive me nuts.
I also got the volume knob relocated and working wonderfully. i used those little pins next to the wires to make the swap over.
Stuck it up where it would go.
The little board next to the volume control slides over and wedges the board into place without having to worry about mounting the control board itself to anything. the pot does not have a screw on part like a powermate.
I tried to use the powermate knob on it, and the plastic spacer fits over the LED perfectly. I now can have the glowie effects of the volume control. it's not as snazzy as the powermate ones, but its still kind of cool.
It seems a waste to get a powermate just for the knob, and not even the guts, so I sent Griffen an email asking if I could buy the knob and plastic spacer, and they said no. :cry: Anyone have an extra pair of parts, by chance? :p
Next up, rebuild the speaker grill, and remount the screen and innards.
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