Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
TheShanMan's Defender restoration - New repro wiring harnesses!!!
TheShanMan:
Not much progress today, other than some research on buying options:
* I'm thinking of buying a switcher on the assumption that mine is bad (based on some of my previous posts and responses to them). My thinking is get a switcher to get me past my power problems immediately, but also buy an original linear so I can revert back to stock. But since it will likely need some work, I don't want to just add to my list of problems! So the switcher would be a temporary solution, and it seems like it would be good to have if I'm going to be collecting a half dozen or so games over the next 2 or 3 years. Does this seem logical to you seasoned veterans?
* Since my cab is missing the marquee light, what would you guys recommend? Again, I'd like to go with an original williams light for the purpose of being stock if possible, though I'm not sure if those are easily found (I didn't see anything on ebay, but I might not be using the right search terms). If you guys have any suggested search terms or sites that might have these, let me know.
* No luck finding a fiberglass pencil today - maybe I'll try an auto body paint supply shop rather than an auto parts shop. Might just have to order online, but would prefer not to have the delay.
* Oh, back to the PS for a second - my research is leading me to believe that the coin lights maybe shouldn't be enabled when using a switcher? I definitely want to get the coin lights going, so does that mean I definitely need to go back to linear or what? Do the switchers just not put out enough juice on the 12V line or what's the issue?
* Someone mentioned replacing caps not just for the monitor but for all boards. Are there cap kits available for the other boards or do I just need to buy them individually?
RetroACTIVE:
The switcher purchase is a fine way to help rule out power problems at the moment... you can decide later if you want to get / rebuild an original supply.
You don't need to go the "original" marquee light route... unless you can find one of course... just get the plain run-o-the-mill under counter florescent fixture... anchor it to either the top of the cab or put it on a board anchored across the two blocking strips that are on the sides of the cab (where the metal plate would go). Whatever fits...
Well as far as the coin lamps go... you can always change out the incandescent for led... superbriteleds has some red and amber cluster 12V LED bayonet lamps that fit perfect... I did this on my Defender and it looks great... personally I think it looks better than the incandescent.
Bob Roberts sells a cap kit for the sound board... (he's busy with whats left of Gustav right now.. but will be back). As far as the other (ROM/CPU/IO) caps they are mostly general filter caps... 25V 100uF electrolytic... the CPU has one more electrolytic on it as well (can't recall value).
:cheers:
Neverending Project:
If you are trying to keep everything original for the sake of a complete restoration, here is my take on it...
If something like the power supply, marquee light or coins lamps went out back in the day while it was out on route, the operators would make whatever change necessary to get it back up and running. If they had switched power supplies, CFLs and LEDs, they would have probably used them because of the better performance (unless making the switch took too much time).
Regardless, making these types of upgrades do not detract from the overall meaning of the restoration. In my opinion, the boards, monitor, artwork and controls are the most important pieces to restore... What if you had to replace some wires or connectors, would you use original wires/connectors just for the sake of it - or would new connectors make more sense?
Just my .02...
Level42:
--- Quote from: Neverending Project on September 03, 2008, 12:13:43 pm ---If you are trying to keep everything original for the sake of a complete restoration, here is my take on it...
If something like the power supply, marquee light or coins lamps went out back in the day while it was out on route, the operators would make whatever change necessary to get it back up and running. If they had switched power supplies, CFLs and LEDs, they would have probably used them because of the better performance (unless making the switch took too much time).
Regardless, making these types of upgrades do not detract from the overall meaning of the restoration. In my opinion, the boards, monitor, artwork and controls are the most important pieces to restore... What if you had to replace some wires or connectors, would you use original wires/connectors just for the sake of it - or would new connectors make more sense?
Just my .02...
--- End quote ---
I agree with the message here, but I don't agree that switchers are automatically better than lineair power supplies. They have advantages for sure but also disadvantages...
Amazingly, _all_ my cabs have the original Power Supply so I didn't have to think about it, but if I'd get a cab that already had a switcher in there and was working fine, I wouldn't loose any sleep over it ...
TheShanMan:
I'm certainly less concerned about the marquee light than I am the PS. But the switching PS looks so out of place in there, and it's super obvious that it's not stock (you can see where the PS board is supposed to mount, and it's just missing).
I'm up for original as long as it will perform as well as the alternative, it's available (not sure the light actually is), it's not much more expensive, and it's not hard to get up and running. That's my criteria. Otherwise I'm fine with alternatives.
I also do not think switchers are automatically better. They may be more efficient (from my recollection), but that's not my primary concern, and I imagine they put more noise on the output.
Thanks!
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