Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

TheShanMan's Defender restoration - New repro wiring harnesses!!!

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TheShanMan:
Retro, I'm suspecting the PS too, based on the noise that it makes intermittently (but often), and the way the video freaks out when it's making that noise (see video I posted).

I need to run to the auto parts store and get a fiberglass pencil so I can get things cleaned up, but once I do that, assuming that doesn't get me closer to booting up, I may be ready to ship it to you. I don't have another PS, so maybe I could include that with the boards.

I definitely want to make this reliable, so I'm totally up for replacing the ram, assuming it's not some huge expense. I'm also planning to convert to lithium batteries.

When I started this thread I thought it might not be that hard to get it up and running, but at this point this thread has gotten long without a lot of progress - the wheels are spinning but I haven't gotten far. At least I've been learning!

TheShanMan:
With what I can do in terms of the electronics slowing, I'll turn my attention to other issues:


* CP overlay: it's pulling away from the plywood. I assume it's not a big deal to just peel it back and apply some adhesive so that it lays totally flat again? I've got spray can adhesive that I assume will work well here. The overlay is in excellent condition, btw.
* Coin door: it has some rust, so I'm planning to remove it and clean it up. BTW, it has no coin box. It would be easy enough to make a coin box, but I wonder if there are coin boxes readily available that fit defender?
* Joystick: it has some slop to it, but looking at the joystick, it appears that the leaf mechanism is what provides the springy "return to center". I'm thinking I could just disassemble the joystick and bend those leafs back to make the joystick a little more springy? Currently rather than sitting in the center position it probably sits about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom.
* Marquee light: Defenders don't have marquee lights? I don't see any evidence of there ever being a light in it. If not, that's fine because it would emphasize the minor flaws in the marquee anyway. But if they do normally have a light, then I might just have to get a new one printed from the one on localarcade.com.

Level42:
The Defender I'm working on definitly  has the Marquee lit. (Apart from the monitor and the sound board the only thing that works :)).

Of course it needs to be lit, if you want it to be original. Check the manual if it's drawn there.

I'd prefer _minor_ flaws in artwork over having a repro, let alone being it a inkjet printed one ! If you really want to replace it, look for a better one (try the KLOV forum or the Buy/Sell/Wanted section here, or e-bay) or see if there are any silk-screened repro's.

A switching PSU that whistles is usually not a good thing to happen, and in fact what keeps me from replacing original PSU's (apart from the originality). When switchers go bad, all kind of unpredictable things can happen (like frying your game PCB(s)). Even if you haven't got one around, order a new one anyway as this is probably either very bad already, or in the last stages of it's life.

TheShanMan:
It doesn't even look like one was ever mounted there, which is why I thought there must not be one by design. Is yours a florescent I assume? The speaker in mine is kind of big so I'm not sure where the light would go. Maybe mounted to the top (I say from memory because I'm too lazy to go take the marquee off)?

Where would I buy a switching PS? Or for that matter, what about an original PS? I'd kind of like to go back to stock as much as possible, but if they're hard to come by or expensive or unreliable or something, then I'd settle for a switcher.

And what's bad about inkjet printed marquees? I'm sure it's just ignorance on my part, but I'm extremely happy with my overlay for my mame cabinet. My marquee isn't horrible but I know I'd be unhappy with it if I put a light behind it. I can't imagine that I wouldn't be happier with an inkjet one. But if I came across a silk screened one or an original that's in great shape, I'd be all for that too. Not sure where to look for silk screen art though.

RetroACTIVE:

--- Quote from: TheShanMan on September 02, 2008, 01:56:11 am ---It doesn't even look like one was ever mounted there, which is why I thought there must not be one by design. Is yours a florescent I assume? The speaker in mine is kind of big so I'm not sure where the light would go. Maybe mounted to the top (I say from memory because I'm too lazy to go take the marquee off)?

--- End quote ---

Oh I'm sure it was there... check for blocking on each side of the cab... The light is mounted on a piece of galvanized steel... You could use anything that would fit and would not obstruct the speaker...

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65938.msg715079#msg715079


--- Quote from: TheShanMan on September 02, 2008, 01:56:11 am ---Where would I buy a switching PS? Or for that matter, what about an original PS? I'd kind of like to go back to stock as much as possible, but if they're hard to come by or expensive or unreliable or something, then I'd settle for a switcher.

--- End quote ---

You can get switchers anywhere... Bob Roberts sells them.  The original power supplies are not unreliable... (contrary to the myth)... its just that most are 28-or-so ish years old and need to be rebuilt.  I think they are pretty affordable (ebay...etc) if you are prepared to do a little soldering.


--- Quote from: TheShanMan on September 02, 2008, 01:56:11 am ---And what's bad about inkjet printed marquees? I'm sure it's just ignorance on my part, but I'm extremely happy with my overlay for my mame cabinet. My marquee isn't horrible but I know I'd be unhappy with it if I put a light behind it. I can't imagine that I wouldn't be happier with an inkjet one. But if I came across a silk screened one or an original that's in great shape, I'd be all for that too. Not sure where to look for silk screen art though.

--- End quote ---

If you don't want it lit... then inkjet would be fine I suppose... but if you intend on "restoring" it then you would need to put a light back in the cab... and back-lit inkjet isn't the best.... but it's surely a matter of personal picky-ness.   Personally I'd stick with what you have...

:cheers:

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