Main > Project Announcements
paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
paulscade:
Tkx! All for the continued encouragement.
Groovy Game Gear Trackball (Electric Ice):
It's nice that they provide a lighting module but it would have been nicer if they provided a way to turn it on.
The GGG trackball [USB] interface connects to the Betson Imperial trackball... it's sold as one unit from GGG called the Electric Ice Trackball. Also included is a lighting module that's mounted to the center/bottom of the trackball housing. The lighting module has a small ribbon cable attached that provides a way to light the LED's (4 wires: 5v, Red, Green, Blue). For a few bucks more... they could have hooked up the 5v to the USB interface on the trackball and provided a switch to light the individual LED's.... then it would be a complete unit... with nothing else needed to provide a working, lighted trackball.
I know, it might be expected that you would hook this to a LED Wiz or similar. But I don't want a LED Wiz... I just want a lighted trackball. :hissy:
So... I built my own on/off switch / dimmer for the trackball LEDs.
This lets me:
1) completely switch off the LED's
2) select any/all of the three colors available
3) dim the LED's
Here's what it looks like connected:
and the electrical diagram is below (the 5th switch is unused). Also note that the series resistor for the LED's is not shown in the diagram... they are part of the GGG LED board.
paulscade:
My control panel is done.
I'll have to get some better pictures (because taking photos of highly reflective control panel top is difficult).... but I wanted to share it with everyone....
Tada....
No bevel around the trackball hole (was it mountain that did that?)... but it fits nicely:
Another shot of the final wiring... with the USB cables layed in and the LED control mounted:
It opens nice and wide... a little too wide actually... the top is somewhat heavy and there's a lot of pressure on the hinges when fully opened. I'm probably going to add a small chain to limit the opening and provide some support:
paulscade:
I also spent some time wiring the coin door yesterday.
It required 4 wires: a common ground, +12v (for the reject button lights), and 2 wires for the coin switch contacts.
I wired the ground just like the control panel... daisy chained from the common contacts on the 2 coin switches to one each of the contacts on the light bulbs.
I daisy chained the 12v to the other contact on the bulbs.
The two coin switch contacts are independent wires... that will run to the control panel (I need to find a nice, 2 contact, quick disconnect before I hook up the coin switches).
The 4 wires that run into the cabinet need to be flexible as the door needs to open and close. I attached the wires at the the top of the coin door leading into the cab... and the wires are attached to the cab at the bottom once inside. This leaves a nice length of wire for flexibility.
Light bulbs:
Coin Switch:
Door:
I'm now up to 132 hours of build time on this project that I started back in March.
paulscade:
I mounted an arcade button to the side of the cabinet. I picked Black so it would blend in (and it does):
This button is wired to the terminal block on the inside of the cabinet (more on that below).
The PC is plugged into the "MASTER" outlet of a Philips smartstrip.
The monitor and audio amplifier are plugged into the controlled outlets.
I found a nice empty spot on the PC case and I mounted one of these:
The "RST" is tapped into the momentary on power switch on the front of the PC case. I traced the wires from the switch to a couple of connections on the motherboard... they were marked "reset". :) Once I verified that it was really the reset switch, I cut the wire and tapped in.
The 12v comes from one of peripheral power connectors.
With the PC inside the cabinet, I use a "patch cord" to connect these connections to the terminal block that I had installed in the cabinet.
My connections from the PC to the cabinet:
- reset switch to terminal block
- 12V to terminal block (for marquee and coin door lighting and for rear fan)
- audio out to amplifier to terminal block (for left and right speakers)
- USB to: U360, Electric Ice Trackball, and TurboTwist2 Spinner
- PS2 to Keywiz40
- [USB keyboard and PS2 mouse]
One push of the button on the side of the cabinet and it all comes to life.... another push and it all shuts down.
paulscade:
I have a huge problem....
...and I knew that it was coming because I've read about this phonemenon on this board before....
My cabinet is playable. ;D
So now, I spend all my free time playing games and not finishing up.
I have only a few things left to do before I can officially call it complete:
- side art
- marquee
- coin switch hookup (to Keywiz)
The plus... I'm on vacation this week... so I plan on using my [cough, cough] creative talents and coming up with something for the marquee and sides.
The coin switches are easy... I just need to find a 2 position connector so it can be easily disconnected.