Help me repair my Defender

[deano728]

I have a defender that breaks down every month or so but usually I just have to buy a ROM to fix it and since it is easy to diagnose, I keep fixing it.  Well, it finally became hard to diagnose when it no longer can even get to the test screen.  I just get 4 noises and no picture.  SOOOO

I am going to convert it to a MAME machine with a JPAC. I have 3 questions.

1. Are there other games besides Defender and Stargate can be played with only an up or down joystick?
2. What is the most simplistic frontend or way to setup the system so that once I turn on the computer, it gives me only a choice of the few games that I can play.  I guess I am probably looking for a DOS based frontend...
3. What is the most simple amp I can get so that I can use the existing speakers in cab.

Thanks in advance and happy 4th !

[TOK]

Ahhhh! Are you in eastern PA or NJ/MD/DE?

[CheffoJeffo]

I have a defender that breaks down every month or so but usually I just have to buy a ROM to fix it and since it is easy to diagnose, I keep fixing it.  Well, it finally became hard to diagnose when it no longer can even get to the test screen.  I just get 4 noises and no picture.  SOOOO

If you are continually burning out ROMs, then you have another issue to deal with.

Post some details and mayhap our resident Williams expert (are you reading this, Retro ?) can help you out.

[SirPeale]

You've got some issues that can be worked out.  Please, please don't Mame it.

First, spend a few bucks and get 4164 RAM and replace the 4116 that's in there.  You'll have to make a tiny little adapter to use the new RAM (otherwise it'll blow on powerup) but likely you'll never have to buy another RAM again.

Second, your power supply...have you capped it?  Pull it, cap it, and touch up every solder joint on it.

[Level42]

You've got some issues that can be worked out.  Please, please don't Mame it.

+1 !!!

However good, emulation is NOT 100% like the real-board sets.

[FrizzleFried]

At least try to find someone to trade you for a JAMMA cab.  Someone locally may have a 25" JAMMA cab to trade you for that 19" Williams cab.

[TOK]

EDIT: Removed my pics and trade offer since Dean has decided to fix. 

[deano728]

Why is everyone so anti-mame-ing this thing?  I wouldn't scrap it, I would just build an adapter for the time being to hook the controls into a JPAC and play it as a MAME game.  I already have a MAME cab, but the controls, the button placement and everything about my defender is what I like.  YES, i agree mame won't be exactly the same, but if I only buy a female adapter for the buttons and joystick, I could swap it out until I get the chance to problem solve the Defender issue.  You see, the post from PEALE is probably what I need to do and if I had a guess, I would think the PS is probably bad, but I have no idea what he is even talking about and it would take me a while to pull it off.  It would take me no time to build an adapter and MAME it and it isn't a long term solution (unless there is something I'm missing...)

I actually would like to play stargate on my defender cab because I hate playing it with my mame cab since the buttons aren't in familiar places.  I actually bought a joust board to convert with Clay Cowgills multi jamma but the day I got the board Clay stopped making the williams boards!

Unless there are some problems with my logic on the mame-ing, are there any other MAME games that use only up and down?

By the way, someone suggested that there is a williams expert lurking on this board.  If it helps diagnose the problem, here is a more detailed explanation of the problem.

I turn on the game and get the startup noise.  Then I sometimes get a line on the monitor or the screen has briefly flashed and there are sometimes a pixel here and there blinking. (I don't think the monitor is the problem and is only 3 months old).  Every 3-5 seconds the sound plays again.  It does this as many as 4 times total and then nothing else no picture no sound and no response from a coin drop.  I receded all of the chips but I haven't tested the voltage from the PS.  2 questions on diagnosing the problem.  1. how do I test the voltage?  Where do I put the meter.  2. If I have a working Joust board, can I just replace the ROM chips on it with defender chips and it will be working?

Thanks guys and I promise I won't permanently MAME this thing, I agree with you all that history shouldn't be messed with.  P.S. I am in SoCal should anyone be in the area that fixes old school games. 

Dean

[CheffoJeffo]

Where possible, keeping the original hardware running is preferable.

At the very least, I would definitely reflow the solder on the PS, particularly the connector pins. My experience with Defender is nil, but I have seen problems in Williams games with the solder joints on the connectors going cold.

IIRC, you can't swap boards between Defender and other Williams games.

EDIT: I totally forgot to provide the link ...

Williams Power Supply Repair

[RetroACTIVE]

...  If it helps diagnose the problem, here is a more detailed explanation of the problem.

I turn on the game and get the startup noise.  Then I sometimes get a line on the monitor or the screen has briefly flashed and there are sometimes a pixel here and there blinking. (I don't think the monitor is the problem and is only 3 months old).  Every 3-5 seconds the sound plays again.  It does this as many as 4 times total and then nothing else no picture no sound and no response from a coin drop.  I receded all of the chips but I haven't tested the voltage from the PS.  2 questions on diagnosing the problem.  1. how do I test the voltage?  Where do I put the meter.  2. If I have a working Joust board, can I just replace the ROM chips on it with defender chips and it will be working?

Thanks guys and I promise I won't permanently MAME this thing, I agree with you all that history shouldn't be messed with.  P.S. I am in SoCal should anyone be in the area that fixes old school games. 

Dean

Dean,

- No rug pattern...  probably bad RAM... if you get the defender growl at startup thats a good sign....
- Check your voltages... thats where you should start... if you have the original power supply there are a couple of leds that can tell you... (at a glance) if any of your supplies are flat out dead...
- You should always check the ribbon connection from the ROM to the CPU board... you see.. Williams used crappy headers that oxidize... when I repair these boards, I replace them with gold headers because they are a real pain in the rear and cause really bad things to happen (that are difficult to diagnose!)

If you want... throw it in a box.. and ship it to me... I will repair it free (if you don't need anything expensive like... a complete RAM replacement or new decoder ROMs)

Here is a link where I helped an individual check the power supplies of his Stargate... (they will be the same for you)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=77497.0

I am on vacation right now... and won't be back in normal life for 3 weeks... so if you get stuck.... and can be patient with me... I can definitely fix it for you.

 
- Jim

[deano728]

Jim,

Thank you so much for your response.  I will look at all of these tomorrow.  I am really impressed with your knowledge and all of the sudden I feel confidence that I can repair it if I have someone like you looking over my shoulder on this board. 

btw, I want to go on vacation for 3 weeks!!! ;-)

I will open her up tomorrow and report back my findings.  Thanks again for the post!

[RetroACTIVE]

Jim,

Thank you so much for your response.  I will look at all of these tomorrow.  I am really impressed with your knowledge and all of the sudden I feel confidence that I can repair it if I have someone like you looking over my shoulder on this board. 

btw, I want to go on vacation for 3 weeks!!! ;-)

I will open her up tomorrow and report back my findings.  Thanks again for the post!

No prob... I'm happy to help... I think you'll find it to be much less painful than you initially may have thought... also... be patient... sometimes one fix leads to another discovery of another issue 

I'll be checking this post from time to time this week... (between my visits to Funspot!)

 

[deano728]

Wow that is a really cool vacation...

I opened up the machine and the 12 volt LED is the only one not lit.  The middle fuse is blown on the power supply.  I checked the schematics and says that I am supposed to have a 4a fuse in there, but when I pulled the fuse, it has a 5 amp in there.  So I went to radioshak and bought both.  I tried them both and they both blow when I turn on the game.  So it would appear too much juice is getting to them.  Thanks for checking even on your vacation.  Let me know what I should try next.  I am looking forward to learning about this stuff, so thanks for your patience!   

[RetroACTIVE]

Wow that is a really cool vacation...

I opened up the machine and the 12 volt LED is the only one not lit.  The middle fuse is blown on the power supply.  I checked the schematics and says that I am supposed to have a 4a fuse in there, but when I pulled the fuse, it has a 5 amp in there.  So I went to radioshak and bought both.  I tried them both and they both blow when I turn on the game.  So it would appear too much juice is getting to them.  Thanks for checking even on your vacation.  Let me know what I should try next.  I am looking forward to learning about this stuff, so thanks for your patience!   

Got it... your talking about F3 right?

Now check for shorts on your +12 line...  on your main boards...
Unplug your machine from the wall
Unplug the main 15 pin harness (4J2) off of the power supply PCB... (the one that is NOT connected to the power transformer)
Get a multimeter and set it for OHMS...
Connect the black lead to a ground pin on your CPU... (put your lead into 1J3 Pin 2 or 3, power connector)... dont remove the connector from the board... you should be able to make contact with the metal of the pin in the housing.
Connect the red lead to the +12 VDC regulated line on your CPU ... (put your lead into 1J3 Pin 5)

Record your reading...

The only thing that uses +12VDC (regulated) is the 4116 RAM... however F3 fuses all the +12 V supplies... including unregulated +12 that goes to the sound board and the CPU...

Get some more fues... You will need to check the supply next... (not connected to the CPU)... so if the short is on the power supply... you could still blow another fuse... no biggie though.

 

[deano728]

Thanks retro!

I did exactly as you had instructed.  I get a reading of 57.4 when using the ohmeter.

I bought a bunch of fuses, but which should I use?  Like I said in my initial post, the schematics call for a 4a 250v fuse, but there was a 5a fuse in there.  You were correct it was the middle fuse F3.  Is all of this from memory?  if so, I am doubly impressed! 

Did you get any records at funspot?

[SirPeale]

Use the 4A.  Someone must have swapped out the fuse when it blew before, but didn't have the proper one.

[deano728]

Thanks Peale!

[RetroACTIVE]

Thanks retro!

I did exactly as you had instructed.  I get a reading of 57.4 when using the ohmeter.

I bought a bunch of fuses, but which should I use?  Like I said in my initial post, the schematics call for a 4a 250v fuse, but there was a 5a fuse in there.  You were correct it was the middle fuse F3.  Is all of this from memory?  if so, I am doubly impressed! 

Did you get any records at funspot?

Ok... put a new fuse in the power supply and plug it in and turn it on... then check your 12 volts at the power supply PCB...  keep your boards disconnected.... (you won't get a perfect reading with no load)... but if the 12volts does not trip the fuse then it could be something on your boards and may not be entirely the power supply... but lets check one thing at a time just the same.

No records broken... I suck at video games.... allways have.  I love them because they make me feel like a kid again...  I stunk then and I stink now. 

EDIT:  Forgot to address your reading
57.4 ohms?  If so that seems a bit low... should be around 500-600 ohms typically.

[The Man]

OK I'm going to jump in here....  I've got a Defender that hasn't been working for about 2 years and I'm interested on getting it working again.  I'll work through your power supply suggestions then get back with you if that's OK.  You sound like just the guy I've been looking for   Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
TM

[SirPeale]

OK I'm going to jump in here....  I've got a Defender that hasn't been working for about 2 years and I'm interested on getting it working again.  I'll work through your power supply suggestions then get back with you if that's OK.  You sound like just the guy I've been looking for   Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
TM

Start your own thread.

[The Man]

OK I'm going to jump in here....  I've got a Defender that hasn't been working for about 2 years and I'm interested on getting it working again.  I'll work through your power supply suggestions then get back with you if that's OK.  You sound like just the guy I've been looking for   Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
TM

Start your own thread.

I will. Thanks!

It was more of a heads-up and not a highjack

[deano728]

The f3 fuse still blows.  I measured the lines and everything was as expected.  roughly 13 volts for the 4,5, and 6 pins.  Pin 1 was 6 volts... 

I tested voltage on pin 3 (12VDC REG) and it meaured 37v?  How can that be after the fuse blew?  Then I restarted the machine and got no reading, so maybe I just was doing something wrong (hopefully).

[RetroACTIVE]

The f3 fuse still blows.  I measured the lines and everything was as expected.  roughly 13 volts for the 4,5, and 6 pins.  Pin 1 was 6 volts... 

I tested voltage on pin 3 (12VDC REG) and it meaured 37v?  How can that be after the fuse blew?  Then I restarted the machine and got no reading, so maybe I just was doing something wrong (hopefully).

OK... so you measured these voltages on the power supply PCB where the connector was correct?

Try one more thing... remove the lockout coil/coin door... unplug the 6 pin connector (4J3) from the power supply and keep 4J2 unplugged too... replace the fuse and see if it blows again... I promise this will be the last fuse test

If the fuse still pops....

Now you know the F3 is blowing regardless of whether or not there is a load on it... Therefore at a minimum, your power supply is kaput... and you could be reading some really wierd voltages even if the fuse is blown since the fuse is only on one side of the bridge rectifier... and this failure is common... your +12 goes haywire and cooks your 4116 RAMs....

You have two courses of action at this point... depending upon how you feel about re-work...

1.  Rebuild your power supply (as Cheffo suggested earlier)
2.  Convert to switcher

Now if it were me, and I had a complete Defender, all original wiring... I would re-build the power supply.  Bob Roberts sells a Williams Defender PS "shotgun" rebuild kit... its very effective with this sort of problem.   If you opt for this route, I would also replace the big honkin filter cap as well (not part of the rebuild kit) its an 18000uF, 20V cap (C12, the biggest one on the board).  Its an axial cap... these style are not manufactured anymore, Bob sells a "snap-in" version...  you can adapt to fit very easily.

Regardless of the path you choose here... most likely your RAMs are toast... so  you may as well while you are at it convert to 4164s... Bob also sells the adapter and 4164 RAMs as well... but these things can be acquired from any electronics supplier.

[deano728]

Bummer.  I was hoping for a miracle...

So is this something I need to get out the soldering iron and get crazy?  What is the skill level I would require to pull this off?  FYI, my skill level is pretty low, although if given the right direction, I would love to learn to do this myself.  This is, after all, a hobby for me and time to escape from the screaming little guys to have some time to myself (although I am much happier when playing rather than fixing).

I am not even sure what RAMS are toast?  Do I need to replace a bunch of them?

If I get the power supply replacement and new RAMs, how long will this fix last?  Does it happen every few years or should I be good for quite a while? 

Does Bob Roberts give instructions with the kit or is there a site somewhere that explains it all?

Retro, I cannot thank you enough for your guidance throughout this.  I really appreciate it, especially on your vacation.  Enjoy the rest of your time at FS!

[RetroACTIVE]

So is this something I need to get out the soldering iron and get crazy?  What is the skill level I would require to pull this off?  FYI, my skill level is pretty low, although if given the right direction, I would love to learn to do this myself.  This is, after all, a hobby for me and time to escape from the screaming little guys to have some time to myself (although I am much happier when playing rather than fixing).

If you go the switcher route... no soldering whatsoever!

I am not even sure what RAMS are toast?  Do I need to replace a bunch of them?

You would replace them all with 4164s... don't even bother with keeping the 4116s

If I get the power supply replacement and new RAMs, how long will this fix last?  Does it happen every few years or should I be good for quite a while? 

If you replace your RAMs and fix/replace your power supply... its a good long while!

Does Bob Roberts give instructions with the kit or is there a site somewhere that explains it all?

- Upgrading the RAMs .... piece of cake,  plug and play
- Switcher upgrade .... piece of cake, plug and play
- PSU rebuild... requires basic soldering skills... Bob gives you a list of parts and reference designators... the manual is downloadable from the internet... and its very easy to remove and replace parts from the power supply PCB...

Retro, I cannot thank you enough for your guidance throughout this.  I really appreciate it, especially on your vacation.  Enjoy the rest of your time at FS!

Don't mention it... allways a pleasure!  Let me know what you want to do... if you want I can rebuild the power supply for you... I have a few of the items you need... just pay shipping back and forth.

[deano728]

Retro,

I REALLY appreciate the offer to fix the PS.  I really want to give it a shot myself just to see if I can do it.  Would it be OK if I private message you in the case I run into some problems?

I think I am even going to try and replace the AA batteries with a lithium battery.  I always have a tendency to bite off more than I can chew, but every once in a while it works out for me. 

Thanks again, and wish me luck.  I will send you a PM even if I don't have any problems and eventually pull it off myself!!!

Dean

[SirPeale]

Don't PM him, post any issues here so if anyone has the same problem they can be looked up in the database.

[RetroACTIVE]

Retro,

I REALLY appreciate the offer to fix the PS.  I really want to give it a shot myself just to see if I can do it.  Would it be OK if I private message you in the case I run into some problems?

I think I am even going to try and replace the AA batteries with a lithium battery.  I always have a tendency to bite off more than I can chew, but every once in a while it works out for me. 

Thanks again, and wish me luck.  I will send you a PM even if I don't have any problems and eventually pull it off myself!!!

Dean

Dean,

When you remove that AA battery holder... get some heavy guage wire cutters and cut the leads off from the base of the frame (component side of the board) before you de-solder it...

Use solder wick or a solder sucker to remove the solder around the pads...

Don't use one of those "gun" type soldering irons... (usually Weller brand... they have a trigger)... they are too hot for use on a PCB (especially Williams)... it will burn the pads right off the board.
 

[deano728]

I recieved the Bob Roberts kit today.  It seems pretty self explanatory - match up component with the same specs, remove old one from board and replace with new one from kit.  Ok, now here are a few really basic questions that I have before starting off on my maiden voyage.

1. How do I remove the old component?  My guess is use the soldering iron to heat the solder underneath and just pull out the component?
2. Then, once removed, won't the holes be filled in with solder?  Or will there be holes for me to then match up the + and - insert and drop some solder on the other side.
3. I asked Bob to send the 18000uF, 20V axial cap you described (the biggest one on the board).  He sent a  18000uF, 35V radial.  The one he sent has both connections on one side as opposed to the old one on the board having one connection on either side.  Assuming this is the correct replacement part, how would I sold it to the board?  Is there a jumper or do I use a wire or something? 
3. What is a cold solder joint?
4. I have just a $10 soldering iron that doesn't have any temperature gauge or anything.  This isn't what you were talking about burning the board, is it?

That is it, sorry for the noob questions, but I just don't really want to screw this up.  I really want to get my defender working this weekend!!!

Thanks guys.
 
Dean

[SirPeale]

1. How do I remove the old component?  My guess is use the soldering iron to heat the solder underneath and just pull out the component?

You'll need a solder sucker.  Heat the joint until the solder is molten, then suck it away.  If you don't want to wait, Radio Shack (as least around here) carries them.  After you remove the majority of the solder you can grasp the part and GENTLY pull it out. 

This is something you should practice on a circuit board until you're proficient enough to do it well.

2. Then, once removed, won't the holes be filled in with solder?  Or will there be holes for me to then match up the + and - insert and drop some solder on the other side.

See above, you just sucked it out.

3. I asked Bob to send the 18000uF, 20V axial cap you described (the biggest one on the board).  He sent a  18000uF, 35V radial.  The one he sent has both connections on one side as opposed to the old one on the board having one connection on either side.  Assuming this is the correct replacement part, how would I sold it to the board?  Is there a jumper or do I use a wire or something? 

They don't make that cap anymore, so Bob sent an equivilant replacement.  With electrolytic capacitors you can go up in voltage - but never down.  Basically you just splay the legs one way and the other, bend the ends, push the ends in the holes and solder them in.  Make sure you get the polarity correct!

3. What is a cold solder joint?

It's a solder joint that does not make a good connection to either the board or the part because it was either done incorrectly, or it has heated and cooled many times to not make good contact.  Heating the joint and applying a tiny bit of fresh solder should straighten this out.

4. I have just a $10 soldering iron that doesn't have any temperature gauge or anything.  This isn't what you were talking about burning the board, is it?

If you're CAREFUL you can use your $10 iron, but it helps to know how to solder.  Do the practice thing I mentioned above.

That is it, sorry for the noob questions, but I just don't really want to screw this up.  I really want to get my defender working this weekend!!!

Don't get so excited you make the problem worse.  Soldering isn't difficult - once you figure out how.  Took me a while, but now it's second nature.  The key is practice! (on something you don't care about).

[RetroACTIVE]

I asked Bob to send the 18000uF, 20V axial cap you described (the biggest one on the board).  He sent a  18000uF, 35V radial.  The one he sent has both connections on one side as opposed to the old one on the board having one connection on either side.  Assuming this is the correct replacement part, how would I sold it to the board?  Is there a jumper or do I use a wire or something? 

The one Bob sells is a snap in cap... it has tiny claw shaped leads... you will need to add wire to the leads in order to connect it up.  Add about 4" of 20 guage wire to each of the caps leads.  Lay the cap on its side and tie it to the board with a zip tie or something... there are a couple of holes in the pcb that you can fish your tie through.  Then, connect your leads to the pcb feed-throughs that the old cap was in... If you look at the label on the cap it has a strip of - signs on the side of the cap that indicates that the negative lead location... this is the polarity indication that Peale was talking about... The pcb has the polarity marked for you... its either going to be a + or a -, I'm not sure which one it is cause I don't have one in front of me, just put the right wire in the right hole. 

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/axial.html

1. How do I remove the old component?  My guess is use the soldering iron to heat the solder underneath and just pull out the component?

... one more thing to add... regarding removal... sometimes it helps to add a bit of fresh solder to get things out of the board as well... manly because the solder is dry and does not flow very well...

[deano728]

UGH!

I spent all day "fixing" the power supply.  Here are pics.  It probably took me 6 hours because I suq, but by the end, it wasn't quite as bad.  I think the stupid chips took me 2 hours each.  There must be some better way to do it than I did it.

http://www.nblender.com/images/images/ps.jpg
http://www.nblender.com/images/images/pswide.jpg
http://www.nblender.com/images/images/componentwide.jpg

I only hooked up the power and not the board, fired it up and it looked like it was working.  All of the LED's lit up and I thought life was good.   pooof.  12v out again. 

When I measure the voltages, the -12VDC starts at like 112 and decreases to 0.  What could I have done wrong?  It definitely last a little longer now before the fuse blows.  The 12v light doesn't just turn off, it slowly dims until it is off. 

I am not ready to Mame this thing, I think I just want to fill it with dynamite and see how far it will fly in the air.

Thanks for the help.

[AnthonyB]

I think I just want to fill it with dynamite and see how far it will fly in the air.

that sounds like fun!!

[deano728]

Retro,

If your offer still stands, I'll send this thing to you.  I gave it a shot.  All the caps are changed out, but I am not capable of doing the chips.  I thought I had them in and when I tried t take out the chips today, half of the pins came out too. 

Dean 

[RetroACTIVE]

Retro,

If your offer still stands, I'll send this thing to you.  I gave it a shot.  All the caps are changed out, but I am not capable of doing the chips.  I thought I had them in and when I tried t take out the chips today, half of the pins came out too. 

Dean 

I certainly will do that for you!

I'm still out of commission as I'm between vacations...I'll be back in business on the 28th.
If you can wait let me know.

[deano728]

I don't think I have a choice!!!! 

Actually, I spent some more time yesterday and tried to redo the chips.  I think they are all in now. 

Can you think of anything else I can do to try and figure out why it is not working?  Bob Roberts told me to check BR1 and BR2, althouh I am not quite sure how to do it. 

[RetroACTIVE]

I don't think I have a choice!!!! 

Actually, I spent some more time yesterday and tried to redo the chips.  I think they are all in now. 

Can you think of anything else I can do to try and figure out why it is not working?  Bob Roberts told me to check BR1 and BR2, althouh I am not quite sure how to do it. 

Those are bridge rectifiers... and for some reason I thought Bob's shotgun kit came with new rectifiers as well...

So if you've not replaced them... certianly check them.  Rectifiers are an arrangement of diodes... Diodes should only pass current in one direction... Set your multimeter to diode test (the symbol looks like a triangle with a line across the top) and check each of the diodes in the rectifier.   Use the schematic to determine the orentation of the diodes in BR1 and BR2...

There should be roughly .5 v drop across each diode.
 

[deano728]

I can't thank you enough Retro.  You are a class act and your generosity is amazing.  I hope that someday I can give back.  Someday when I am no longer a noob. 

[RetroACTIVE]

I can't thank you enough Retro.  You are a class act and your generosity is amazing.  I hope that someday I can give back.  Someday when I am no longer a noob. 

Thats very kind of you but... don't give me too much credit

I think one of the main things that people starting out should do (if they are really committed to the hobby) is seriously invest in good tools... a good multi-meter, a decent oscilloscope and a really really good soldering/de-soldering station.  Having good tools can help you learn and allow you to try different things without getting frustrated or damaging your components.

Don't give up... take your time and remember... almost anything can be fixed.

By the way... after I looked at your pics... I noticed your power connector on your board looks quite cooked... it should be replaced.
 

[deano728]

I agree with you, I think I needed some good tools (a solder sucker to do those chips on the board would have been really nice, I used solder wick).  Also, my soldering iron was less than good, of course since this is the first time I really used a soldering iron, I guess I really don't have a good frame of reference.

The power connector was cooked prior to this most recent incident, but I agree it should be replaced.  I should show you pics of the underneath.  Whoever fixed it when the "cooking" happened actually bypassed the ground at the end of the connector by soldering a grounding wire directly on the board itself.

Are you still hanging out at funspot?  What has been your favorite game to play there?  I would like to go there.  My dad was a repair tech for a vending machine company.  When I was little, there was nothing cooler than when my dad had to go to work on Saturday.  I would go with him and just walk around the warehouse and all day I would just decide which game I wanted to play next.  The best part is all I had to do was open the coin door and give myself credits.

[RetroACTIVE]

Are you still hanging out at funspot?  What has been your favorite game to play there?  I would like to go there.  My dad was a repair tech for a vending machine company.  When I was little, there was nothing cooler than when my dad had to go to work on Saturday.  I would go with him and just walk around the warehouse and all day I would just decide which game I wanted to play next.  The best part is all I had to do was open the coin door and give myself credits.

I'm back from funspot... I still enjoy all the classics... I played more pinball this year than I have ever in the past and it was really fun.  Did a tour of vectors of course... My next project is a D2K machine... so I played that as well.

[deano728]

retro.  Did you get my private messges?  I sent the PS and you should recieve it Tuesday.

Dean

[RetroACTIVE]

Dean's power supply has been repaired.  The source of his agony was BR2.  Pin 1 and 2 were shorted causing the overload.  Its now running at 100% capacity and will be finding its way back to its home very soon!

 

[deano728]

Retro is the man.  The guy has a heart of gold and has a wealth of information that he doesn't mind sharing with the world.  I couldn't be more excited that in a few short days, I will be getting my butt kicked by aliens again!

Thanks Retro, you are truly a class act.

Dean

[shred5]

Retro is the man.  The guy has a heart of gold and has a wealth of information that he doesn't mind sharing with the world.  I couldn't be more excited that in a few short days, I will be getting my butt kicked by aliens again!

Thanks Retro, you are truly a class act.

Dean

Agreed..

That has got to be the most detailed description on talking some one through something I have seen..

Dave

[vintagegamer]

Retro, you may be hearing from me on a similar issue as is found in this thread.  I will start a new one if needed...