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J-stik shaft diameter
kspiff:
Yes, Assault is one of my favs.. Namco just has a way with their games (I would say they can do no wrong, except for that whole Hometek division :P).
I'm making some Raider Pro dual sticks, myself.. too bad I'll likely need to waste a set of Competitions to do it..
I remember when I first got my HotRod and was so excited to try my hand at some arcade authentic Assault..
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I'll just give you a minute for that to sink in.. ::)
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Let's just say my keyboard smells like feet now.
OSCAR:
--- Quote from: RetroBorg on April 03, 2003, 05:32:00 am ---Perhaps that might be right but I thought you needed a 4-way joystick for Tron especially during the light-cycles. Can anyone else shed some light on this?
--- End quote ---
See this thread: http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=44;start=0
I took apart a Tron joystick and measured the bottom actuator & restrictor. In a later thread, someone else posted that there is an upper restrictor, too, but on the joystick I had the upper one was so beat up the joystick didn't even contact it.
ddoyle1996:
It's done. I used 4 aluminum tubes (3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32") and put them one inside the other. I used 4 because I have kids and knew it'd get beat up. I tried bending this myself and couldn't do it. I'm pretty sure the flight stick would break before the shaft bends.
The tutorial at mamecheats.fateback.com/tutorial.htm shows how to cut the plastic piece coming out the bottom of the Raider Pro so you can insert a new shaft into it, but I did not do that. The 9/32" tube fit perfectly in the part of the plastic piece that this tutorial shows you cutting off. Instead, I just used some epoxy to cement the tube in that piece. I used the dremel to cut the tube to length.
The mamecheats tutorial uses a plastic stopper to control how high the flight stick sits on the control panel. I used a rubber grommet instead. The rubber grommet works just as well, and it actually does a pretty good job at keeping the joystick from rotating. I used the epoxy to cement it at the right position on the tube.
After that, I used the dremel to create a grove in the tube where the e-clip needed to be. I put the remaining pieces of the e-stik (spring and 2 plastic pieces) on the shaft and clipped the e-clip on and OH YEAH! I've got a Raider Pro flight stick on an e-stik base. I can switch from 4-way to 8-way easily, and the wires for the flight stick come out the bottom of the tube since it's hollow. Now I just have to finish the rest of my cab so I can use it.
RetroBorg:
Thanks Oscar, super helpful as always.
Good work ddoyle1996 you will have to let us know what your joystick plays like once you have finished your cab.