Sorry it took so long.
According to the red lines, the sides of the coin door area slip under the bottom as extra support in the middle. They touch the floor and rise up to be attached to the base, and the base extends between them to be attached to them. Sorry if that sounds confusing.
Makes sense considering all the weight it supports, that's probably the most heavily loaded point on the cabinet.
The white outline of the base extends under (when looking from underneath) these supports and is difficult to measure accurately, so I may be off by as much as 1/8".
The white square on the left is a wooden foot. It measures 2" x 2" x 1 1/2", which is interesting because it is only 1 1/2" high and the base sits 1 3/4" off the floor. There is a hole in the wood so maybe it had a metal foot at some point? Obviously I am missing the other feet and have marked their positions with the circles. Don't know as they need to be exact in placement, but if so, let me know.
I'm sure it had leveling feet at one point, I've yet to see an original cab that shipped without them. I can import the pic and determine the layout for them so we should be good to go.
The green shows how to properly position the power switch/cord holes. Measure down from the back corner, then out at a 90 degree angle to the center point of the hole.
I understand now why they moved the on/off switch on your cab, you'd have to pull it out from the wall and crawl around on the floor to use the original.
Anything else?
You got us a great reference pic, some hard numbers to work with, and discovered some details we didn't have before. I'd say it was a resounding sucess. We seriously owe you a beer or 12.
*Note to self: In the future, when turning a game that you have stripped upside/down, make sure to collect all the loose screws and bolts before turning said game upside/down.*
Find any quarters?
It sits 1 3/4" above the bottom of the side panels, all the way around.
So the kick panels are flush with the bottom panel?