Author Topic: Ryobi Router hacking me off fixing to return it!!!! (Read 14321 times)

rdowdy95 · « **on:** July 27, 2006, 11:34:16 pm »

Hey guys I got a Ryobi Router the Electric Plunge Router $99 one. It is pissing me off. I am fixing to return it.I am having a problem with the depth of cut. Here is my problem. There is two hex nuts on the top of this long bolt thing. It says adjust the hex nuts until they come in contact with a stop flange. This will provide a positsion stop at zero. Okay I get all of that. My problem is it is a pure B#&*$ to move these things. I cannot move them away from each other. The bottom portion of this thing also has a hex nut that keeps it connected to the bottom part of the router , and when I loosen these hex nuts the whole damn bolt gets lose, and I cannot move these hex nuts I can tighten them that will move the shaft down, but I cannot move them back into an up position. All that does is loosen the whole bolt thing. It seems like the two top nuts just won't move back up the big bolt. When I try it loosens the bolt. So most likely this thing goes back tommorow, I need a damn router though. Any suggestions?!?!?!?
This is my first cab, and seriously I am thinking about calling this whole project off

leapinlew · « **Reply #1 on:** July 27, 2006, 11:44:22 pm »

Damn dude... calm down. Wheres the enthusiasm you were showing just 1 week ago?

So your having a problem with a tool you've never had experience with. If your this pissed now... just wait - more things to come! Building an arcade is an adventure around every corner. Take it in stride or prepare to be mad... alot.

Take a picture and show us what your talking about. There are some real pro's here who could help you out.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 27, 2006, 11:52:59 pm »

There is a depth adjustment rod with two hex nuts on it near the top. It is more like a long bolt that controls the depth of the router. So if I tighten it, it will hold the bit down farther. There is really no way I can get these two nuts to come back up this depth control rod (bolt). Near the bottom where it screws into the base of the router there is another hex nut one that actually moves. When loosing the top two though the rod turns lefty loosy and gets loose while those two top hex nuts stay together. Man I am not taking no pics tonight of this dumb thing. I am going to Home Depot tommorow, and if they can get that thing adjusted I am getting something else, or getting a different one. That was the only problem though other than that nice hardware.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 27, 2006, 11:54:20 pm »

One other thing since I really didn't turn this thing on, does this thing move up and down like a jackhammer, or does it just spin at a very fast rate?

NightGod · « **Reply #4 on:** July 28, 2006, 12:08:03 am »

They spin very quickly.

And loosening hex bolts to adjust the depth on a plunge router doesn't sound right to me-usually it's just something you twist by hand. Sounds to me like you're adjusting something that is meant to stop the router from moving beyond it's maximum tolerances, not the thing you need to move to adjust the depth.

I'm sure someone with experience with that particular model will be able to help you out more.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 28, 2006, 12:19:27 am »

Sorry I got so mad earlier. I am going to take it back to them and I am going to show them my problem. If they cannot fix it, then I am going to exchange it or get my money back.

nostrebor · « **Reply #6 on:** July 28, 2006, 08:56:53 am »

There are 2 nuts right? Tight together? Put a seperate wrench on each nut, hold one nut, and turn the other one *away* from the one you are holding. Then each nut will spin up and down the threaded shaft. On that model when the nuts are locked together the whole threaded shaft will unscrew. I have the same router, and this particular setup is quite frustrating to use. Ryobi sells an attachment that turns the depth adjustment into a twist to go up or down arrangement. It should have come with the router in the beginning.

If you go back to get a new one, get a Bosch if you can swing it. The wood handled set with a fixed and plunge base is especially nice.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 28, 2006, 10:15:43 am »

I had one wrench to fit the nut. I will go to home depot and get another one. Do you know what size nut that is?

ChadTower · « **Reply #8 on:** July 28, 2006, 10:47:41 am »

Erm, buy the same size wrench as the one you were using already.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 28, 2006, 11:06:36 am »

I got another wrench here at work that I am going to try to use tonight when I get home. They have an easier part to use to do this I just wish Ryobi would of included this part for free. It is a depth adjustment thing you put on the router. I will go with two wrenches turning feature.

ChadTower · « **Reply #10 on:** July 28, 2006, 11:09:14 am »

Quote from: rdowdy95 on July 27, 2006, 11:54:20 pm

One other thing since I really didn't turn this thing on, does this thing move up and down like a jackhammer, or does it just spin at a very fast rate?

BTW, and I mean this without insult, if you didn't know the answer to this question you shouldn't be anywhere near a router yet. You don't know enough yet to operate the tool safely.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 28, 2006, 12:09:07 pm »

Well I read the directions, but it did not say anything in the directions about that. I know now that it moves up and down for the depth of cut. And spins very fast to do the actual cutting. I don't take no offense. Hey that is why I didn't turn the thing on yet till I am totally comfortable with setting the depth of cut and other settings.

ChadTower · « **Reply #12 on:** July 28, 2006, 12:57:13 pm »

My point is that you should read up on what the tool does, why it does it, and best safety practices, before you use it. If you didn't even know the basic methods the tool employs you couldn't have possibly studied enough to know how to operate it safely.

These tools are NOT toys.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 28, 2006, 01:29:44 pm »

Thanks Chad,

Before I run the thing I am definately going to read more about it. I know what it is suppose to do, but I do need to read on how it does it. I am just learning how to make adjustments with it right now. Now since I know how to move those hex nuts that will help me progress farther in researching how to use/understand this tool.

I have already done some circular saw action and power drill action. It is a learning progress for me right now. The only things I have done with woodwork are drill. My sawing is getting better now since I made those sawboards. Until this project though I have only used a drill.

I have picked up most stuff on using power tools here at this forum so I thank you and the other users here. Also I am going to be using my flush trim router bit to practice on two base boards I sawed when I was starting the project out. I didn't use a sawboard and the measurements came out wrong. so I am going to make them flush with one another just to practice some with the router.

I am using this method to make a carbon copy of the side piece I have already done. The topic of my project is Dowdy's Mame Arcade Project if you want to see my progress so far.

ChadTower · « **Reply #14 on:** July 28, 2006, 01:34:17 pm »

Sounds like a decent plan.

MikeDeuce · « **Reply #15 on:** July 28, 2006, 01:40:31 pm »

Here's a PDF I've downloaded from Finewoodworking.com that covers some safety tips:

http://www.ironvulva.com/temp/routing_safe_and_sound.pdf

And for general familiarity with routing, may I recommend taking a look at the informational articles at http://www.patwarner.com/ ?

Norm did a 2-parter on the New Yankee Workshop as well, titled Router 101. If you have any access to this, it would also be a great start.

Oh yeah, and search for power tool horror stories (groups.google.com, woodnet.net/forums), not so you fear the tools, but respect them even more than ever. They always seem to leave a lasting impression and keep me from doing things I shouldn't be with power tools.

ChadTower · « **Reply #16 on:** July 28, 2006, 01:42:03 pm »

Oh sweet. I am so reading that right now.

nostrebor · « **Reply #17 on:** July 28, 2006, 02:11:09 pm »

Just to drive this point home...

Router bith are razor sharp bits of carbide steel that you spin at upwards of 20,000 RPM in your router. If these magical bits come out of the collet, of your body parts touch them, your in deep ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. Flesh never wins over spinning router bits.

Please, please do everything you can to insure that you fully understand how to operate a router safely, before you ever spin a bit.

(This commentary is intended for any and all readers that happen into this thread, including myself, not just the OP.)

NightGod · « **Reply #18 on:** July 28, 2006, 03:26:09 pm »

Accident at Work-Lesson to Everyone is a sticky over in the Everything Else forum. Gives a pretty clear warning of the dangers of routers.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 28, 2006, 10:30:52 pm »

Guys I rented a good book at the Library about router woodworking. The first couple of chapters is an intro to routers and types, and the next two chapters have safety stuff in them.

I did spin the router tonight some. I went through all safety precautions as well. Guys I do have a question though. Here is my thing. I have a top bearing flush/pattern trim bit I got from MCLS. It is the 1 inch diameter one with 1 inch length with 1/2 collet size. Now first I shoved the bit all the way in there, and lowered it down to the working service. I locked the lock into place and then moved my Hex nuts down some to get the stopping zero point. Then I loosened the lock and it was flush as a zero point. So then I used the measure rod and I need to go 1.5 inches. Cause I have 3/4" plywood on top, as a pattern. Then I have 3/4" of the uncut wood on bottom. I have both pieces of wood clamped together. These aren't the arcade side pieces here. These see in the picture are my old uneven base boards, that I am not using. My main purpose was to test on them. However here is where my problem arised. When I pressed down on the router it wouldn't get the depth I needed. It was coming up short. This whole time router is also unplugged by the way. It needed to go past the first 3/4" and go a tiny bit down passed the other 3/4" on the bottom piece of wood. So what I did I loosened the collet a little bit, and pulled the bit out maybe about a little less than halfway. Then I tightened the hell on that collet to make sure the bit would stay in there. It did fine, and the cut was nice. I would turn it off about 5 seconds into cutting just because I was testing it out. I was scared from all the horror stories I have been hearing. I don't do any cutting untill the blade is going fast then I cut into the wood.

My main thing is this. Do any of the rest of you pull the carbide out a little to get some more depth when your router won't physically allow any more depth? Is it dangerous to pull it out a tad, or should I just go for the Top & Bottom Bearing Flush Trim/Pattern Bit from MCLS? #8814 is the one I could try to get. The blade length is 2" for $28.00

What do you guys think? Here are the pics.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 28, 2006, 10:44:09 pm »

I forgot to tell you guys man I was so scared reading the horror stories and stuff, and I am a novice at this stuff as well. To play it safe I tied a rope around my waist with a cookies sheet in front of my jewel area so I wouldn't have to me the next Bobbit victim. So tell me pulling the carbide out a little bit is it safe or should I look for a longer bit?

NightGod · « **Reply #21 on:** July 28, 2006, 11:11:19 pm »

Quote from: rdowdy95 on July 28, 2006, 10:44:09 pm

I forgot to tell you guys man I was so scared reading the horror stories and stuff, and I am a novice at this stuff as well. To play it safe I tied a rope around my waist with a cookies sheet in front of my jewel area so I wouldn't have to me the next Bobbit victim. So tell me pulling the carbide out a little bit is it safe or should I look for a longer bit?

O_O

Not that a sheet metal cookie sheet would stop a 30,000 RPM piece of carbide, but it's a nice gesture.

Personally, I would a) get a longer bit or b) get a flush mount bit that has the bottom bearing instead of the top one. It will be far more useful to you in the long run, anyway, since you can use it for laminate/plexi cutting alot easier.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 28, 2006, 11:42:05 pm »

Cool. I will go ahead and order that longer one I stated in the above post.

Have any of you ever pulled a bit out a tad bit? Say like not shoving it in all the way?

DrewKaree · « **Reply #23 on:** July 29, 2006, 01:45:27 am »

You shouldn't be shoving the bit in "all the way" ever. It'll be a pain in the ass to remove. Pull the bit out a smidge. Lemme clarify first.

YOU SHOULD NEVER BE PULLING THE BIT OUT MORE THAN AN EIGTH OF AN INCH. IF YOU HAVE TO, YOU NEED TO PURCHASE A LONGER BIT!

Second. It's a pattern bit. You shouldn't need to use the plunge capabilities of your router AT ALL! Set it at ONE depth, and screw the motor down (IIRC, it's a big latch that you open up, screw the motor down some, and close the latch again), then fine tune the adjustment with the depth ring, and finally, if that router has it, a little dial.

It sounds as if you're buying tools as you go along. I'm guessing that nut is a 9/16", but if you go and buy a wrench without taking along the one that already WORKS, you're silly. You also may not be able to buy just a single wrench, you might need to buy the whole friggen set.

I know you might be frustrated right now, but if that's the case, seriously, as nos suggested, just take it back NOW and get a better one to begin with. If you think the people working at the store better be able to adjust it, then stop and think about what you're expecting. You're expecting that since you're unable to get this thing set up properly by yourself, you'll take it back, and they'll do it for you. What if the setting isn't right? If the setting IS right, how do you believe those people are going to be able to figure it out? Same way as you should be able to, right? It's just something that's frustrating, not something that's the end of the world.

ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS attach pictures when you're including such a gawdawful run on sentence. Then, explain your problem in relation to the picture we'll all be looking at (both you AND us) so that we are all looking at the same thing, and the description won't be so foreign. Remember, there might not be anyone else who owns the exact same tool as you do, and we might be giving you instructions that ensure that you'll lop off a finger, toe, carbuncle, malignant growth, etc.

Seriously. Without pics, unless we've got the same thing you've got, we're working in the dark hoping we don't blow the place up

WITH pics, we can see what you're talking about. You're in luck, since nos has the same router. If HE'S talking about the same thing YOU'RE talking about, then you're golden. If not, well....

Lastly, since it's a plunge router, it CAN cut in an up/down motion, but it's not recommended except with certain bits, and there isn't a bit you should be using that would recommend cutting in that way. Oh, and I forgot one thing - CLAMP DOWN YOUR WORKPIECES AND FOR THE LOVE OF PETE, BE CAREFUL!

Brax · « **Reply #24 on:** July 29, 2006, 08:12:00 am »

Quote from: DrewKaree on July 29, 2006, 01:45:27 am

You shouldn't be shoving the bit in "all the way" ever. It'll be a pain in the ass to remove. Pull the bit out a smidge. Lemme clarify first.

YOU SHOULD NEVER BE PULLING THE BIT OUT MORE THAN AN EIGTH OF AN INCH. IF YOU HAVE TO, YOU NEED TO PURCHASE A LONGER BIT!

Comment #1 In my opinion you SHOULD be putting the router bit "all the way" in. It's a collet. It's loose; you're not going to get it "stuck". It spins close to 30,000 rpm, it needs all the help it can get to hang on to the bit. Router bits were designed to be inserted all the way until they hit the stop.

Comment #2 Pulling a router bit out at all is STUPID. "Half way" is Russian roulette. If you want to kill yourself, this is an effective way to do it! I'd say you've already violated the number one safety rule when it comes to routers.

I can't say I could follow what you were trying to do, but it sounded like a complicated stack of wood you were trying to lower your bit down to. The bit was designed to use a "pattern" and cut into your wood. Generally people use 1/4" pressboard for patterns. The router can lower the bit between 1 1/2" and 2", I can't imagine you need more than this. (Especially for an arcade cabinet) My first thought is that you might need to simplify your process so that you can use the bit you already have.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #25 on:** July 29, 2006, 11:23:37 am »

Well the thing is I am going to get a longer bit. The cutout out pattern I had was 3/4" plywood. Underneath that was also 3/4" plywood. See I am laying my one arcade cabniet side on top of the other piece of wood and pattern routing like that. I have not done any plunge work. This project I will not be doing any plunging. I will just be setting the lock down in posistion. I am going to try to set the bit all the way in the collet, but pull it out about an 1/16 so the heat can expand. Thanks guys, check the pics out a nice flush side piece of wood. That is some scrap wood I was testing on. It was also clamped down very good. I will let you guys know my progress of routing here. Thanks for answering my questions.

DrewKaree · « **Reply #26 on:** July 29, 2006, 11:45:57 am »

Quote from: Brax on July 29, 2006, 08:12:00 am

Comment #1 In my opinion you SHOULD be putting the router bit "all the way" in. It's a collet. It's loose; you're not going to get it "stuck". It spins close to 30,000 rpm, it needs all the help it can get to hang on to the bit. Router bits were designed to be inserted all the way until they hit the stop.

There are 2 main reasons NOT to seat the bit all the way in (bottom out, hit the stop, however you want to term it). First, the heat generated during use is transferred directly to the bottom, which then is transferred directly to the motor. Heat in tools tends to shorten the life of a tool. Second, and the far more important reason, since the shortened life-span won't be that noticeable to the casual user, if a bottomed-out bit seizes in the collet (which frequently happens, bottomed-out or not), you'll have to PULL it out with pliers, which can be difficult. Some other method MAY work for you, or HAS worked for you in the past, but it won't stop it from happening. If you HAVEN'T bottomed-out your bit, you can tap it with a piece of wood. The small gap allows it some "wiggle room" so you can then free it from the collet much more easily.

I have had (and I'm sure others have as well) crap get down in there, burn due to this heat, and you've now got a stuck bit that isn't stuck on the sides (although that often happens too) and it requires all manner of cursing and hammering to get it out. Since learning that I SHOULDN'T bottom out a router bit, not so much

A router bit should be put all the way in, then pulled out just a tad to give a small bit of space for those 2 reasons, however, I agree with you on pulling a bit halfway out. Should NEVER be done.

DrewKaree · « **Reply #27 on:** July 29, 2006, 11:47:48 am »

Quote from: rdowdy95 on July 29, 2006, 11:23:37 am

Thanks guys, check the pics out a nice flush side piece of wood.

[Field Of Dreams]If you attach them, they will look

[/Field Of Dreams]

NightGod · « **Reply #28 on:** July 29, 2006, 01:16:35 pm »

I still say you should get a pattern bit that has the bearing on the bottom instead of the top-you'll be wanting one later if/when you decide to laminate the sides or plexi your CP.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 29, 2006, 03:00:56 pm »

Drew scroll up some man. They are pics up there. I posted three of them earlier. Two are of two pieces of board clamped together. The other shows the bit pulled out some.

Hey Drew my instructions in the manual did say pull it out just a tit. So the heat has room to expand. Good call there. Also they have an collet extension at MLCS. I don't think I will get it, I am going to go with the Top & Bottom Bearing Flush Bearing Bit at MLCS. It is item #8814 and the cutting length is 2". That ought to do the trick. I am always going to shove the bit in as far as it will go then pull it out a smidge like 1/16" or an 8th of an inch.

Drew I will not be doing any plunge work on the project. I think I said plunge earlier, but it was a verbal screwup. I am still trying to get my router lingo going.

saint · « **Reply #30 on:** July 29, 2006, 03:02:40 pm »

At least one of my rotary tools (either my Dremel or my router) has instructions that specifically tell you to fully insert the bit and then pull it out 1/8"...

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 29, 2006, 03:03:24 pm »

Quote from: NightGod on July 29, 2006, 01:16:35 pm

I still say you should get a pattern bit that has the bearing on the bottom instead of the top-you'll be wanting one later if/when you decide to laminate the sides or plexi your CP.

I am going with an all wood look. I am not going to put laminate or plexi on the control panel.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #32 on:** July 29, 2006, 03:05:05 pm »

Saint my Ryobi Router also has the same instructions as well.

DrewKaree · « **Reply #33 on:** July 29, 2006, 03:28:32 pm »

Sorry I can't take a closer look, I didn't expand those last time. I'm off with the wife to be dragged around. I'll take a look later. Make sure to hit up nos since he's got your router (shoot him a PM or twelve

) and he's super teh kewl and good with "wood" if ya know what I mean *wink* *wink* *nudge* *nudge*

Mebbe I can talk the wife into stopping at Home Depot for whatever I can dream up (why do WOMEN always need a reason to go there?

) and I'll check out the router you bought.

DrewKaree · « **Reply #34 on:** July 29, 2006, 03:36:06 pm »

Well, before I headed out the door, I looked....I was referring to the original problem with the inability to adjust stuff, and I didn't see pics for that. That might have already been sussed out from nos' post, but that's what I was referring to with the pics. The set of pics you have has one that's completely black. I haven't gone through that post too well yet, but it sounds like you've got an alternative plan.

ChadTower · « **Reply #35 on:** July 29, 2006, 05:16:16 pm »

Quote from: rdowdy95 on July 29, 2006, 03:00:56 pm

Hey Drew my instructions in the manual did say pull out a tit.

Are you sure you have the right instructions?

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 29, 2006, 07:11:14 pm »

Yeah you want me to scan you freaking pic of the instructions, then I can highlight it for you.

NightGod · « **Reply #37 on:** July 29, 2006, 07:24:24 pm »

Man, since when did routers start coming with tits for you to pull out? I need to spend more time at Lowe's!

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #38 on:** July 29, 2006, 07:55:46 pm »

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #39 on:** July 30, 2006, 12:37:27 am »

Hey guys I am now routing. Tonight I started my second cabniet side cut. I had one minor screw up see picture #3. The other pictures are just what I have done so far. They show that I did the back angled section, and the top, and the top front, and starting on the curved part tommorow.

Guys see the screwup in pic 3. I barely tilted the router just a smidge, and it made that little indention. What do you guys think. A little wood filler? Maybe let the wood filler dry in that little spot for about 8 hours then sand it? What do you guys think?

NightGod · « **Reply #40 on:** July 30, 2006, 01:02:08 am »

Thanks for putting the pretty frame around the pics for us!

And yeah, wood putty for that little nick there-that spot will be covered with T-molding later anyway, so it should be an easy repair.

MikeDeuce · « **Reply #41 on:** July 30, 2006, 04:38:32 am »

Yay, progress!

If you happen to have a jig saw around, you may want to try rough cutting it (say, around 1/8" away from the line), before flushing it up with the router. There's a lot less burning, it's quieter, and it's easier and a lot less stressful (IMHO).

It may be a matter of preference, but I feel it's safer than removing a lot of material with a router bit (especially if you did that in one pass).

DrewKaree · « **Reply #42 on:** July 30, 2006, 06:29:15 am »

To add to Mike's comments, it's also easier to deal with those large panels of wood and perhaps having something fall after (or during) your cut that you didn't expect. Not entirely a big deal, and it appears as if you'll already have it cut out, but something to consider.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 30, 2006, 03:44:46 pm »

Yeah I was also thinking the same thing. I did do a little rough cutting to get those other big pieces of wood out of the way. Guys I am also done with pattern/flush routing part for the 2nd cabniet side. All I need to do know is some minor sanding. I did have one issue. You can see it in picture #2. When I got to the right angle you know where the control panel is going to sit? On the bottom cabniet piece it is a little curved due to the circular nature of that bit. So I used the jigsaw a tad to try to square the angle. What would you guys do. I figure I would try to sand it down to flat instead of the little curve it has on it. If I do sand what grit should I use for this?

Also when I get to my T-Molding I was wondering. Should I put T-Molding on that right angle since the Control Panel Box is going to be sitting on it, or should I go around that part, and not put T-Molding there? Rather out the T-Molding above the control panel box, and below the control panel box. Thanks.

NightGod · « **Reply #44 on:** July 30, 2006, 05:08:52 pm »

No t-molding, use a corner file (it's a file shaped like a triangle) to gently square off that corner.

That's how I would do it, at least.

rdowdy95 · « **Reply #45 on:** July 31, 2006, 12:05:20 am »

Can you send me a link to purchase one of these or atleast a picture so I can know what it looks like when I go to Home Depot?

NightGod · « **Reply #46 on:** July 31, 2006, 01:54:47 am »

This link might not work

If it doesn't, just go to homedepot.com and put 100091245 in the search box.

nostrebor · « **Reply #47 on:** July 31, 2006, 08:40:54 am »

Quote from: rdowdy95 on July 28, 2006, 10:44:09 pm

To play it safe I tied a rope around my waist with a cookies sheet in front of my jewel area so I wouldn't have to me the next Bobbit victim.

For the love of all that's holy!!!... you should have gotten pics of this. YOU MUST POST PICS TO THE FORUM WHEN ROUTING WITH ARMOR!

Seriously, I'm glad you took my advice and picked up a book. Routing is great fun and the router is possibly the most versatile and powerul WW tool in the shop. Folks take years learning all the tricks that the router can do. You have stepped over the edge of a slippery slope indeed... CONGRATS!

It looks like you are getting the hang of it.

On the square corner you can do several things. A flat file would work fine. If you dont have that an 80 grit piece of sandpaper folded over a heavy paint stick or board would get you there... I use adhesive backed sandpaper stuck to wood shapes for that kind of stuff all the time. you can also cut it with your jigsaw, but be careful to not over cut. If anything leave it slightly undersized and then sand to get it perfect.

The file will be the easiest, but only if you don't have to drive across town to buy one.


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