1UpArcade Star Wars yoke hack questions

[unclet]

At site www.1uparcade.com/project-swyoke.html, it explains how to interface a Stars Wars yoke to a MS dual strike USB gamepad.  

- It indicates the use of a "braid" to help with de-soldering.  Is this the same thing as a solder sucker?  If not, please explain what it is andwhere to get one.

- I noticed at http://www.therealbobroberts.com/ they have a spring activated solder sucker, but was wondering how one goes about cleaning a solder sucker for reuse later.  I am assuming the solder sucker sucks up the solder when you heat it up with your soldering gun so it does not run all over the PCB board, but does the solder harden inside the "sucker"..how do you get it out to reuse the solder sucker later?  Obviously never used something like this before ... :>)

-  The site also mentions "torx security wrenches".  Are these the same things as very small allen wrenches or are they different shapes/sizes?   Do I absolutely need these torx wrenches to get into my Star Wars yoke to see which wires are present andwhere they are connected?


Extra question:  
I am currently thinking of interfacing my 2 gas/brake pedal pot assemblies (one for single-axis control, one for dual axis control), my Spy Hunter pot steering wheel assembly and my 4-speed shifter (ie: 4 buttons) to the gameport via the instructions at http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels/wiring.htm.  However, I was informed that maybe I should connect all of my hardware via USB since gameports are fading away.  So my other question is can I connect all of this stuff via dual strike gamepad hacks to multiple USB connections?   I want to make sure I will have a gas/brake pedal assembly be single-axis and one for dual-axis and prefferably not have to switch between the two pedal sets.   I also do not want to have to activate a switch to use my Spy Hunter steering wheel assembly and Star Wars yoke either.  I basically want to start a game in Mame and grab the controls and play.    If this stuff could all be connected via USB ports and if you could give somewhat of a description of how all the wires (and how many dual strike hacks) should be connected (using the PCB board diagram in www.1uparcade.com/project-swyoke.html as a reference) that would be great.

Any input would be appreciated....thanks

uncleT

[Chris]

Desoldering braid is just a wire braid that soaks up solder like a sponge.  It can be purchased in spools at Radio Shack.



I use the spring loaded desoldering pump myself.  Yes, the solder hardens inside the pump almost immediately, so when you press in the plunger again, a solder pellet is ejected.  Again, you can get these at your local Radio Shack.

Security wrenches have a small hole at the center of the wrench; a  security screw will have a small pin in the center to prevent removal with normal tools.

[Karman]

-  The site also mentions "torx security wrenches".  Are these the same things as very small allen wrenches or are they different shapes/sizes?   Do I absolutely need these torx wrenches to get into my Star Wars yoke to see which wires are present andwhere they are connected?

The torx security screws are neither allen heads, nor standard torx.  They're like torx but with a small post in the center.  The post keeps you from using standard torx wrenches on them.  You may be able to get them off without the security bits, but it won't be fun.

[u_rebelscum]

The torx security screws are neither allen heads, nor standard torx.  They're like torx but with a small post in the center.  The post keeps you from using standard torx wrenches on them.  You may be able to get them off without the security bits, but it won't be fun.

And for those not knowing what a torx head looks like, think 6 pointed star with rounded points, or *.

[1UP]

The only way to get security screws off (without the proper tools, which are relatively cheap if you get them from Bob   ) is to drill out the metal post in the center.  This is difficult and can actually end up rendering the screw useless if you let the drill get out of hand, making it impossible to remove.  You may also damage the finish of your arcade controls!  Buy from Bob, he's a good guy!

Yes, you can use multiple USB controllers hooked up at the same time.  Windows supports up to 16 game controllers, so get an extra USB hub or two and you're all set.  (This is how I have my system set up BTW, that's kind of the point of having rotating CPs.)

[unclet]

I want to hook up the following via DS gamepad hacks:

- Star Wars yoke (2 potentiometers total)
- Spy Hunter pots steering wheel (1 potentiometer total)
- 4-speed shifter (4 microswitch -- buttons)
- First gas/brake assembly (2 potentiometers total)
- Second gas/brake assembly (2 potentiometers total)

Please confirm the following, then I will feel good about purchasing some Dual Strikes (please refer to diagram at www.1uparcade.com/project-swyoke.html):

Dual Strike hack #1:
- Connect Star Wars yoke using your directions

Dual Strike hack #2:
- Connect Spy Hunter steering wheel to "Left/Right Pot" location of the 1UpArcade diagram.  Note: I chose "Left/Right Pot" since that seems to be the direction a steering wheel turns....is this right?

- Connect 2 microswitches (of 4-speed shifter) to "Right Grip Thumb and Trigger" positions and the other two microswitches to "Left Grip Thumb and Trigger" positions

- Connect first gas/brake assembly for single-axis use by connecting both of these potentiometers together in a series (like the first wiring diagram in http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels/wiring.htm) and then connect this series to the "Up/Down Pot" location of the 1UpArcade diagram.    

Dual Strike hack #3: Connect second gas/brake assembly for dual-axis use by connecting the gas pedal potentiometer to the "Up/Down Pot" location of the 1UpArcade diagram and the brake potentiometer to the "Left/Right Pot" location.

---------------------------------------------------------------

- I also plan on keeping all the 5K potentiometers which came with the arcade hardware (ie: steering wheel, pedals, etc) with whatever degree they currently rotate through.  Basically, I was not going to replace them with 100K...just like 1Up states......correct?

- A problem which I am having is that the potentiometer wiring listed at http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels/wiring.htm shows only two leads of the potentiometer are ever connected, but 1UpArcade Dual strike hack diagram shows using three wires each coming from a different lead.   Why do all three leads of a potentiometer need to be connected to a DualStrike hack but only two leads of the potentiometer need to be connected for a gameport hack?  Also, I realize where the middle lead of the pot gets connected to the Dual Strike PCB but does it matter how the left or right leads get connected.  I mean, it all depends on how you are holding the potentiometer to determine which lead is the left one and which is the right one.

Note: I am not sure whether I am connecting the gas/brake assemblies correctly to get a single-axis and a dual-axis assembly functional.   I read somewhere that some games use single-axis and some use dual-axis and that if the pedals are not configured the correct way for the game, then the game will not interpret the pedals correctly.  This is why I have two sets of gas/brake pedals.   Anyway, the steering wheel I can simply connect all three leads to the hack.  

If I have something wrong, or I need to connect this stuff to different places, or more Dual Strike hacks, please let me know how to make the connections.

Thanks
UncleT

[1UP]

Please confirm the following, then I will feel good about purchasing some Dual Strikes (please refer to diagram at www.1uparcade.com/project-swyoke.html):

Dual Strike hack #1:
- Connect Star Wars yoke using your directions

OK, we all know that one works...  

Dual Strike hack #2:
- Connect Spy Hunter steering wheel to "Left/Right Pot" location of the 1UpArcade diagram.  Note: I chose "Left/Right Pot" since that seems to be the direction a steering wheel turns....is this right?

Sounds right to me.

- Connect 2 microswitches (of 4-speed shifter) to "Right Grip Thumb and Trigger" positions and the other two microswitches to "Left Grip Thumb and Trigger" positions

If you want to use these buttons, you'll want to avoid cutting any cables before you track down which wires are used by these buttons.  I stripped my DS down to the main board for simplicity's sake, and used the 5 buttons that connected there (up, down, left, right, left-trigger) for my pushbutton connections.  (BTW, if you map out the other buttons, let me know so I can include this in my writeup!)

- Connect first gas/brake assembly for single-axis use by connecting both of these potentiometers together in a series (like the first wiring diagram in http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels/wiring.htm) and then connect this series to the "Up/Down Pot" location of the 1UpArcade diagram.

This is where I can't guarantee anything.  I've never tried this before, but it sounds like the two pots get wired as if they were one, with the gas using the "positive" end of the pot, and the barake using the "negative" end.  Test this by twisting wires together before you solder anything!

Dual Strike hack #3: Connect second gas/brake assembly for dual-axis use by connecting the gas pedal potentiometer to the "Up/Down Pot" location of the 1UpArcade diagram and the brake potentiometer to the "Left/Right Pot" location.

---------------------------------------------------------------

- I also plan on keeping all the 5K potentiometers which came with the arcade hardware (ie: steering wheel, pedals, etc) with whatever degree they currently rotate through.  Basically, I was not going to replace them with 100K...just like 1Up states......correct?

Correct, if you're using my hack.  (You'll have to configure the pots in MAME)

- A problem which I am having is that the potentiometer wiring listed at http://www.gunpowder.freeserve.co.uk/wheels/wiring.htm shows only two leads of the potentiometer are ever connected, but 1UpArcade Dual strike hack diagram shows using three wires each coming from a different lead.   Why do all three leads of a potentiometer need to be connected to a DualStrike hack but only two leads of the potentiometer need to be connected for a gameport hack?  Also, I realize where the middle lead of the pot gets connected to the Dual Strike PCB but does it matter how the left or right leads get connected.  I mean, it all depends on how you are holding the potentiometer to determine which lead is the left one and which is the right one.

Not sure about why they are only wireing one side of each pot, but when I did tests with my DS hack, the pots did not respond correctly with only one side hooked up (in T2 I only got half the range).  Crack open a Dual Strike, and you'll see that all 3 prongs on the pots are connected to something.  Just makes sense to hook things up the same way they are on the DS.  Also, with their hack, you're making direct connections to the game port, which may make a difference.  Again, I don't know that much about these kind of connections, that's why I used an existing gamepad for my hookups.

However, if you find that your arcade controls only had wires soldered onto two of the prongs, then you might want to try hooking them to your DS in the same way.  It all depends on the original controls.

Also, it DEFINITELY matters which prong is on the left or right--if you wire things differently, it's not going to work, your axes will be flipped, etc.  You've got  to test your connections though to make sure things are working properly.  That's all I can tell you.

Note: I am not sure whether I am connecting the gas/brake assemblies correctly to get a single-axis and a dual-axis assembly functional.   I read somewhere that some games use single-axis and some use dual-axis and that if the pedals are not configured the correct way for the game, then the game will not interpret the pedals correctly.  This is why I have two sets of gas/brake pedals.   Anyway, the steering wheel I can simply connect all three leads to the hack.

I don't understand this either, but you can usually configure MAME to use a specific axis/direction by going into the TAB menu, selecting an input to change, then pushing the direction you want to use for this control.  It recognizes whether you pushed left, right, up, or down, so I think you can split an axis to your liking.  I would test this first before you commit yourself to building 2 sets of pedals just for support issues.  (BTW, how do you think I built my first DS hack?  I hooked things up, and if it didn't work, I tried a different connection!  Then I wrote the results down and handed it to you on a silver platter...   )

Good luck.

[kspiff]

Also keep in mind that you don't need 3 separate Dual Strikes for these.. if you are using swappable control panels you can make up a standard pinout and use d-subs or molex connectors for switching from Spy Hunter -> Star Wars -> whatever with only 1.. this is what I plan to do so I can (if I wanted to) include 1 analog device per panel without wasting a bunch of pads.

At least I think the DSs would work like this.. please let me know if I'm mistaken.

[unclet]

I am not too big on unplugging/plugging stuff.  My preference is to simply have everything working on USB so I can start up any game I happen to be scrolling through and then pick the necessary hardware (steering wheel, yoke, pedals, etc.. and have it working for that game).  After all, if it turns out I really suck at the game, and want to choose another driving game (or even if my kids want to jump in and play a new game they choose) then I would not have to unplug/plug again.  This cabinet is going to be in my house for years and years (knock on wood) so I want to make sure everything works the easiest way possible...

As an aside note..... I have not had too much luck unplugging USB devices (mainly my USB mouse spinner hack connections) and plugging them right back in.  I needed to do this when testing the hacks when I first made them.  My USB Hub did not seem to recognize them anymore once I plugged them back.  I had to uninstall the Usb Hub and component USB Hub stuff then reboot the machine and let the computer "rediscover" the USB Hub itself (ie: reinstall itself) then everything was fine.  I do not know whether this was just something to do with my USB Hub, computer, OS or something else but just thought you should be careful.  Rebooting everytime you reconnect a new control panel would suck....  I am sure this should not happen, but it does for me.  I do not really care since my spinner hacks work perfectly now and I never unplug them anymore.

unclet

[1UP]

I am not too big on unplugging/plugging stuff.  My preference is to simply have everything working on USB so I can start up any game I happen to be scrolling through and then pick the necessary hardware (steering wheel, yoke, pedals, etc.. and have it working for that game).  After all, if it turns out I really suck at the game, and want to choose another driving game (or even if my kids want to jump in and play a new game they choose) then I would not have to unplug/plug again.  This cabinet is going to be in my house for years and years (knock on wood) so I want to make sure everything works the easiest way possible...

As an aside note..... I have not had too much luck unplugging USB devices (mainly my USB mouse spinner hack connections) and plugging them right back in.  I needed to do this when testing the hacks when I first made them.  My USB Hub did not seem to recognize them anymore once I plugged them back.  I had to uninstall the Usb Hub and component USB Hub stuff then reboot the machine and let the computer "rediscover" the USB Hub itself (ie: reinstall itself) then everything was fine.  I do not know whether this was just something to do with my USB Hub, computer, OS or something else but just thought you should be careful.  Rebooting everytime you reconnect a new control panel would suck....  I am sure this should not happen, but it does for me.  I do not really care since my spinner hacks work perfectly now and I never unplug them anymore.

unclet

I think he was suggesting to make a plug that goes from the POTS on the controls, to the DS board, so the controls themselves could be swapped without unplugging the DS.  This is the same thing people have done with the I-Pac, in order to make swappable panels without buying multiple I-Pacs.  Same idea--the DS is just being used as another interface to the PC after all!

Anyway, I think you said you were going to try a rotating design like mine, in which case it's better to just have everything hooked up full-time...

[kspiff]

That's what I had meant.. it would still mean plugging/unplugging something, just not the USB cables.. but, yeah, if you're using a rotating CP.. then money is obviously no object anyways  

Mine will have swappable control panels but I don't want to have too many or have each be too cluttered or bulky.. so.. 1 panel will have a spot to mount a Star Wars yoke, wheel, or whatever with threaded inserts.. kind of like 1-Ups modular panel on Pac-MAMEa.