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Water Damage base repair - Generic BnB cabinet

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I'm working on a real basic consignment project right now. It is a multiple-converted Joust cabinet, that had significant damage at the bottom featuring repairs by an OP that were less than stellar. ;)

I'm not goint to spend a bunch of time featuring the actual cabinet build, as it is nothing that has not been done a thousand times before. I did take the time to document the bottom repairs, so I'll share the pics and info in this thread.

This is a significant process that is much less difficult to accomplish if you own a table saw and a dado blade set, but it could be done effectively with a sawboard, circular saw with a good blade, and a router with a 1/4" straight bit.

(sawboard link)

On to the pics...

1st pic shows the damage. This thing was toast! I cleared the area to be sawn of metal bits and chose a point to saw across.

2nd pic shows the setup with my sawboard and the circular saw. This particular sawboard is an aftermarket setup with a guide angle and a roller-bearing guide plate that mounts to a circular saw. It was a Christmas gift and it's really nice, but a sawboard like the one detailed in the link above will do just as well.

3rd pic... Once the measuring for square is done and checked twice and the sawboard is secured, I make the cut. I carefully set my blade depth to not quite cut all the way through the face of the plywood. I'll clean up this edge after the fact.

4th pic... the cut is made! and the bad stuff is removed. The original cabinet had dados (slots) cut in it to align the parts. I'll be re-using the "tabs" on the bottom, front and back of the cabinet to strengthen the glue-up of the new piece.

5th pic... closeup showing the bit of fibers left after removing the bad parts. Also shows the factory tongue that will stick into the grooves that I will be putting in the back of the patch. On a williams cabinet you also have to dig out the spring steel "nails" that they used to hold stuff together. These are hell on a saw blade, so if you do this repair, you might want to have a spare blade on hand.

6th pic... all the old glue is scraped off, the fibers are cleaned up, the steel bits are removed, and measurements are taken for the new piece.

7th pic... the new patch is cut to fit. I'm using MDO plywood for this because I had some :) It is 7-ply with marine grade glues and a paper face that is water resistant. It's primary use is sign board in outdoor applications - great for the base of a cabinet!

8th pic... I used biscuits and a biscuit jointer to align the face of the factory plywood with my new patch. If you do not have a biscuit jointer you can use a thin strip of plywood on the inside face, or just butt up the faces and glue. (Note:If you do the butt joint method, it is more difficult to get everything to line up, but it can be done.)

9th pic... all mating surface are glued and the new patch is clamped in place. Harbor Freight runs sales on these "F-clamps" all the time for $3-$5 per clamp. They are cheap, work great, and you can never have too many :D


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