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| RayB:
You need to heat the lexan against a pipe or other part that's the correct shape for the curve... |
| Ixliam:
I do know that, but to get the real shape I needed to heat it and form it to a mold made from the skeeball ramp track. I just decided to heck with that method, and I am cutting the wood pieces and will put them together. I want to make sure I get the correct shape/contour so that it will play like the real thing. Well, off to the hardware store for some goodies... Brad |
| Ixliam:
Today was pretty much an all-day project on the ramp, though some of it was spent getting some hardware. My parents were kind enough to give me a bandsaw (which saved me from buying one). They had this sitting in their out building for about 18 years. A little WD-40 and a new blade and she was buzzing. Also mad a trip to Lowes for the rods and wood glue, along with some red paint. Ended up picking up a belt grinder to do all the sanding with to even out the ramp. So, for todays long project, I couldn't find wooden dowels so I used 1/4" threaded rod. On the start end I put a lock nut and recessed it into the wood. Then I started stacking the parts that I had cut. I used one part as my master part, which had pilot holes for the threaded rod hole and was what I based all the other pieces I cut on. Each piece was then placed onto the rods and then wood glued to the next piece. There are a grand total of 25 pieces of this stuff, and I would not recommend trying to cut them out with a jigsaw. A bandsaw or a scroll saw is the only way to do it. Another option for the ramp would be to put a piece of wood across the ramp frame at the top, another in the center of the S curve, then secure some flexible plastic/wood material to those points and to the ramp holder. It might just form the correct curve on its on, or be pretty close. For now, someone else can try it unless I build some mini 5" ramp model to try. So, here are todays construction pics. Ramp curve in partial assembly. The curve is finally put together. Curve after a nice sanding session. I will probably get the ramp together tonight, maybe put the target white curves together then call it a night. Brad |
| Ixliam:
Here is the ramp assembled, minus the cork surfacing. Brad |
| unclet:
What is the rolling surface made out of .... it looks like peg board .... could that be true? Are you going to put an authentic SkeeBall cork carpet down on top of that? If so, please realize that in order to attach the cork carpet, I believe you use some type of contact cement and you would not want the contact cement to warp the peg board (or thin piece of wood) beneath. Also, in order to clean a SkeeBall cork carpet, you generally spray it down with some "Simple Green" cleaner (or something similiar) and scrub it down, then wait for it to air dry. Basically, you would not want any wetness to seep through the carpet (or go down the sides of the carpet) to the peg board (or thin piece of wood) underneath either. This might cause warping as well....... Also, wanted to tell you that you should call the arcade vendors and see if they have an extra set of white SkeeBall chutes lying around for sale. If a SkeeBall machine is too old to salvage then usually the vendor will keep the white chutes to use for parts (or at least the few I contacted had some). ..... By the way, the vendors I know around me do not have any extra white chutes .... I checked for you. Machine looks good ..... seems like you are spending a good amount of time on it each day. You must really have the itching to play SkeeBall. PS: I would also consider putting in some 100 circles since you are already going through with all this work. Adding the 100 chutes could not be that much more work. It would be bad to have people come over and hear them say .... where are the 100's? This is what happened to me, so instead of buying a SkeeBall machine without the 100 chutes, I waited longer to find someone selling one with the 100 chutes . |
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