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| bishmasterb:
Brad, Great work so far! I can't wait to see the completed project. I love the fact that you are expanding the hobby in a different direction. Are you building the scoring circuit, using a PC or what? What about the display, custom-made or are you using a monitor of some sort? Keep up the good work. |
| unclet:
Also, something looked wrong about your target layout so I started to look into it. It turns out that the drawing I sent you showing the measurements for the target board layout did not correctly show the layout of the hole positioning. Basically, the bottom hole (10 points) is shown as being right near the bottom of the target area .... and this is not correct (or at least not how my machine has the holes laid out). There is a 4 3/8" space between the bottom of the target area and the bottom 10 point hole. I attached two pictures ...... one showing my SkeeBall machine showing you the space under the 10 point and an updated measurement diagram of the target area. I do not believe it would be too hard to cut out the target board again, but I am not sure if your progressed to far today or not. PS: Sorry about the missed measurement ........ hope I am not too late |
| Ixliam:
I have designed my own circuit for the score and ball counter. It could easily be interfaced with a computer system if you wanted to, though you would have to write a custom program and maybe build an A/D interface (easiest is to use the printer port) as well. Unclet: No problem on the measurements being goofy. My wife mentioned that something didn't look right, but I told her that was how it was drawn. Should have listened to her. I have enough wood to cut another target out, just hate haveing to use that 4" holesaw again. MDF gums up in the teeth, and I have to blow out the cut to get the dust out. Ok, done whining about it now :). To answer the earlier questions that is pegboard for the ramp. With the support I have on it, you can walk on it. I looked at luann but it was $21 compared to $5 for the pegboard, and was the same thickness. I tad bit stronger, but since it would have to be supported anyway, thought I would try the pegboard. One thing I am keeping in mind is that this will not take the serious abuse that one in an arcade will. It is very sturdy,, but some things I may not have to go as far in (i.e. using 3/4" MDF instead of 3/4" plywood). I do have cork surfacing that is going on it, then I will need heavier cork for the sides, then that rubber bumper about half way up. The cork I got is 1/16" thick in a roll, as I figured I would try that using some heavy spray glue we use on pegboard at my office when building exhibits. On the machines I played on, once you put your money in there was a plunger on the bottom you pulled. This then dropped the balls down. Since mine won't have any coins in it, I am adding the plunger which is attached to a rope run to a simple internal ball stop. The pics of this are below, and it works better than I thought. I got the idea for doing it this way from pics of people who are building their own airplane controls, and they used bungee cord as the "spring" for the pedals. I thought that was pretty good, since bungee cord is pretty tough, and I had some around the house where we use it to secure our diving equipment when we go cave diving. I don't have any drawings of what I built exactly, since I fiddled with it till I got it right. The original thread which started all this is here if anyone wants to look http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,29455.0.html Brad |
| Ixliam:
Here are more of todays construction pictures. |
| Ixliam:
Test baseball ready for release. Lets play! (this is my test ball, I have wood balls on order for this.) To answer something I forgot in the earlier message, for the display I have bought an original skeeball display which uses lamps to light the LED-ish segments. It will give a more authentic look, though you could go modern with either a 7 segment LED display or use an LCD and make it like the modern ones I have seen. But on the LCD, you would need to add the computer interface or possibly do it with a basic stamp. Brad |
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