Author Topic: $$ Waiting for someone to hookup my Arcade Monitor (Read 9864 times)

Bobby115 · « **on:** May 30, 2004, 10:39:07 pm »

I have $$ Waiting for someone to hookup my Arcade Monitor to my PC. It's an arcade monitor and will need to be hooked up to an Arcade VGA I have. I REFUSE :-) to touch the monitor LOL...........

I'm in Long Island NY and would like to get it done as soon as possible

Thanks

Please E-MAIL me (Bobby115@aol.com) or post here...

Thanks in advance.....

Here is the monitor I have : Zenith Model - 25K7131 - Wells Gardner - 120 Volt - 60 HZ - 100 MAX

SirPeale · « **Reply #1 on:** May 31, 2004, 08:08:01 am »

Too bad I'm not closer. I like $$.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 31, 2004, 09:16:47 am »

I WISH YOU WERE CLOSER :-)

I'm dying to get this done :-) LOL

Anyone??

Edgedamage · « **Reply #3 on:** May 31, 2004, 10:38:49 am »

Damm I would have done it for free.

SirPeale · « **Reply #4 on:** May 31, 2004, 10:40:13 am »

It's not terribly hard. Mains power to iso transformer, which then goes to the monitor. Are you using a J-PAC? If so, that's the hard part, and you're done.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 31, 2004, 11:11:20 am »

Thanks guys.............

Its gonna be hooked up to an Arcade VGA............I think I needed to cut wires from the monitor somewhere and connect it to the special cable that comes with the Arcade VGA card.

As you can see I'm really not interested in doing this myself..........LOL....I have a wife and kids....!!! HAHA

Dont wanna kill myself :-)

SirPeale · « **Reply #6 on:** May 31, 2004, 11:32:45 am »

You shouldn't have to cut any wires. There should be a harness with RGB and sync. That's what you hook up to your hard, and if you're not using a J-PAC, you will have to hack a VGA cable to attach it.

You may need a video amp as well.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 31, 2004, 01:04:00 pm »

Here is the card and the cable I need to hookup......The monitor has everything....It It powers on and everything.......I have a board connected to it and everything comes up :-)

Thanks guys

SirPeale · « **Reply #8 on:** May 31, 2004, 01:07:01 pm »

Looks like the cable is pre-stripped. You'll need to connect those ends to the harness on the monitor. Match each color, and sync, and off you go.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 31, 2004, 01:45:13 pm »

From the picture above can you locate those wires or do I need more photo's................

(Where are all the GREAT Arcade TECHS in NY that want to come to my HOUSE !!)

LOL

Thanks

Rocky · « **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2004, 02:40:05 pm »

The colors are usually:

Red - Red
Green - Green
Blue - Blue
White - Sync
Black - Ground

There isn't enough voltage going through those to hurt you. You can touch them when the monitor is on and not get a shock.

Actually, moving and touching the monitor is more dangourous than hooking the signal to it.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2004, 05:37:31 pm »

Can you see the wires in this Photo???

Where are the guys that wanna make some cash? haha

Thanks

SirPeale · « **Reply #12 on:** May 31, 2004, 08:05:40 pm »

The group of wires on the right, that's wht gets hooked up to data feed. The other on the left looks like power.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 01, 2004, 11:18:51 am »

I will take some more photo's tonight to try to and make sure I get the right wires.......

BUT IN THE MEANTIME IF SOMEONE wants to make some MONEY, please E-MAIL me at bobby15@aol.com

Hey Peale , you should move to long island LOL

jcoleman · « **Reply #14 on:** June 01, 2004, 11:32:37 am »

Quit being a sissy and do it yourself! That is why part of the name here is "build your own." Not "beg for someone else to do it because you are scared of it for no rational reason."

That monitor probably has NO charge in it, not to mention that you are not going to do anything that will hurt you. Read the specs on the monitor and follow the instructions with the ArcadeVGA cable. Disconnect the header from the monitor board before you start and you will be fine. Get some heat-shrink tubing and splice those wires together. Call WG and order a power cord.

You are NOT going to hurt yourself.

Coleman

Bobby115 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 01, 2004, 11:49:55 am »

LOL......OK Coleman

iwillfearnoevil · « **Reply #16 on:** June 01, 2004, 01:09:18 pm »

make sure you do this after the kids are bed to spare them running in after hearing a loud zap in the next room over and seeing you laid out on the floor.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 01, 2004, 01:27:10 pm »

Go ahead.......Make it harder....!! LOL

Hoagie_one · « **Reply #18 on:** June 01, 2004, 03:54:46 pm »

you could just wear rubber gloves

MnMCaputo · « **Reply #19 on:** June 02, 2004, 12:49:17 am »

LOL, I could just see him all dressed up in this suit.
http://www.wolfhazmat.de/hazmat_sunghan4.htm

ps, just make sure you follow the monitor section on byoac and you'll be just fine

Bobby115 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 02, 2004, 07:32:13 am »

Is this were you come for help or no??

Buddabing · « **Reply #21 on:** June 02, 2004, 09:45:12 am »

There is no need to discharge the monitor.

What do the wires hanging off the right edge of the picture connect to?

I have an ArcadeVGA card and the breakout cable, just like you have. My arcade monitor had a plug similar to what you have, except the wires all ended in a stripped end of bare wire.

All I had to do was connect red to red, green to green, blue to blue, ground to ground, and I was golden. The only tricky part was connecting the sync wires, that just took trial and error. Just twist the wires together and make sure the connection is secure when everything works (either solder+electrical tape or one of those screw-on cone-shaped connector thingies)

It's not rocket science. The hardest part of the project was lugging that heavy arcade monitor upstairs.

iwillfearnoevil · « **Reply #22 on:** June 03, 2004, 01:32:12 pm »

bobby hasn't posted today ... i hope he's okay

fredster · « **Reply #23 on:** June 03, 2004, 02:06:31 pm »

He's better off. I'm really surprised he got this far. Must be an accountant.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 06, 2004, 11:11:10 pm »

I'm still here. Didn't get a chance to do it yet.........NOT DEAD !

I will probably give it a shot tomorrow night.

You would think asking for some help wouldn't get so many negative responses...

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #25 on:** June 07, 2004, 08:05:13 am »

... to be expected ... some people just don't have any manners

menace · « **Reply #26 on:** June 07, 2004, 08:33:14 am »

I think most folks are just giving you a good natured hard time --so quit being a wimp and wire it up already

Bobby115 · « **Reply #27 on:** June 07, 2004, 01:21:21 pm »

I'm looking to get to it tonight :-)

Then the Cab will be completed.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #28 on:** June 07, 2004, 09:59:02 pm »

Hey Guys, Quick question......I was speaking to someone on the boards who is helping me out and this is the message he gave me :

~~~This might be a JAMMA connector. If that

Bobby115 · « **Reply #29 on:** June 07, 2004, 09:59:27 pm »

Bobby115 · « **Reply #30 on:** June 07, 2004, 09:59:50 pm »

JoeB · « **Reply #31 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:26:01 pm »

Bobby..

I strongly suggest you get a pro to do the hookup for you. The monitor will require a new power supply as well.

You have an arcade PCB hooked there and a single power supply feeding both monitor & Jamma board.

If you remove the Jamma board and replace with PC, the power supply will no longer have the 5V, 3V, etc. loads (it will just have the 110V monitor load) which will result in it burning out.

You need to remove the power supply and Jamma board.. and build a new power supply for the monitor as outlined here:

http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/buildit.html

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #32 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:30:18 pm »

The looks like a JAMMA game.

Now you got me curious .... what cabinet is that your converting? (I've never seen that particular arcade board before.

BTW ... that power supply isn't feeding the monitor anything

( ... it's getting it's power from the wall outlet (120V) .... then it goes through the isolation transformer (the big thing next to the power supply) since it's an older monitor and doesn't have one built into it and then that goes to the monitor).

The power supply supplies your +12V, +5V, -5V, and a good ol' GND. ( ... and on occassion (newer boards) ... then a +3.3V

)

MrArcade · « **Reply #33 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:34:43 pm »

You need the plug in this picture

the standard is :
from the bottom of the picture up:
large plug
Red, Green, Blue, Ground, +vert sync, +horiz sync, blank(key),
small plug
ground, -vert sync, -horiz sync

Odds are you need to hook:
from arcadevga harness to plug in picture

red to red
green to green
blue to blue
all grounds to ground
nothing to + vert sync
both sync wires to + horiz sync

That works on most monitors

there is a picture on the right inner side of the chassis that will show what the pins on that plug are. the above first four connections are standard...re-red, green-green, blue-blue, all gnd-gnd the only odd one is the sync wires ...some monitors want both to + h sync, some to + v sync, some to - h sync, some to - v sync, and some want them hooked up individually. Hook the colors and ground up first, then first try both sync from arcadevga twisted and try each sync wire on the monitor...one should work

MrArcade · « **Reply #34 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:38:15 pm »

Quote from: JoeB on June 07, 2004, 10:26:01 pm

Bobby..

I strongly suggest you get a pro to do the hookup for you. The monitor will require a new power supply as well.

You have an arcade PCB hooked there and a single power supply feeding both monitor & Jamma board.

If you remove the Jamma board and replace with PC, the power supply will no longer have the 5V, 3V, etc. loads (it will just have the 110V monitor load) which will result in it burning out.

You need to remove the power supply and Jamma board.. and build a new power supply for the monitor as outlined here:

http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/buildit.html

ummm...no

you can just pull the jamma board. the monitor just wants the 110v coming through the isolation transformer. you can just leave the power supply and isolation transformer in there. the 110v does have to go through the isolation transformer...which I wager it already is.

SirPeale · « **Reply #35 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:41:05 pm »

Quote from: JoeB on June 07, 2004, 10:26:01 pm

I strongly suggest you get a pro to do the hookup for you. The monitor will require a new power supply as well.

Monitors don't take a power supply. There is an isolation transformer right there in the second pic, on the bottom right.

Quote

You have an arcade PCB hooked there and a single power supply feeding both monitor & Jamma board.

If you remove the Jamma board and replace with PC, the power supply will no longer have the 5V, 3V, etc. loads (it will just have the 110V monitor load) which will result in it burning out.

You need to remove the power supply and Jamma board.. and build a new power supply for the monitor as outlined here:

http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/buildit.html

Actually, if there's no load on the power supply, some of them don't turn on at all. Certainly shouldn't burn it out.

The power going to the power supply (which powers *just* the PCB, NOT the monitor) should be on a separate loop from the monitor altogether.

This was edit for a Mame cabinet, but the concept is still the same.

MrArcade · « **Reply #36 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:41:34 pm »

in this picture:

the board on the left has the power supply and the isolation transformer on it. it is ok as is...or you can eliminate the power supply...it is the grey box on top. If you really want to eliminate it let me know and I can tell you what to do

Bobby115 · « **Reply #37 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:44:48 pm »

It was made by Leyland

and its was called World Soccer Finals

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #38 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:45:54 pm »

I'll help you get rid of that board if you want ... hehe

Bobby115 · « **Reply #39 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:47:32 pm »

I don't mind keeping the power supply and the isolation transformer ......Don't matter to me

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #40 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:51:41 pm »

You need the isolation transformer no matter what or you'll smoke your monitor wiring it directly to your source voltage ... it's a keeper

Bobby115 · « **Reply #41 on:** June 07, 2004, 10:53:11 pm »

This is what I just found on the inside of the cabinet

SirPeale · « **Reply #42 on:** June 08, 2004, 08:56:06 am »

Quote from: Bobby115 on June 07, 2004, 10:47:32 pm

I don't mind keeping the power supply and the isolation transformer ......Don't matter to me

If you want to use that monitor, you *have* to keep that isolation transformer.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #43 on:** June 08, 2004, 09:12:44 am »

I would like to use this monitor ........:-) Just let me know what needs to be done.......

Thanks

fredster · « **Reply #44 on:** June 08, 2004, 10:48:48 am »

Bobby115,

Why don't you just download the monitor schematic's from Mike's Arcade?

There's a trouble shooting guide, etc in there. It has all the info you need.

You need the isolation transformer connected between the wall power and the monitor. It's there to protect the monitor from spikes. Only a few new monitors don't need them.

There are all kinds of ways to hook that monitor up. You don't have to be afraid of the Red Green Blue Connector.

The first pin closest to you is RED, Then Green, Then Blue. The next one is a ground. (black wire). The next one is the sync, sync. Skip to the 3 by themselves and the first one is Ground.

You can put the black wire on either one of the grounds, I don't see where it mattered. Some monitors have to have 2 syncs, I don't think that one does. It just needs the one in the middle of the 3.

If you are scared of touching it, don't worry. There are two things that byte on the monitor. The big red wire that goes to the suction cup is the HV (high voltage line). That thing will bite.
The other thing that bytes is the round cap like thing on the side of the chassis. It's about an inch in diameter, it's metal, and has 3 screws. Don't touch that. It's not a good idea to touch the back of the monitor's neck board.

Otherwise, you don't have a problem. If you do touch them, they may not bite, but don't temp it. Otherwise, the rest of the chassis is okay. You can even move those wires around on the connector when it's running. I don't like to do that unless I have real problem.

SirPeale · « **Reply #45 on:** June 08, 2004, 11:04:14 am »

Quote from: fredster on June 08, 2004, 10:48:48 am

You need the isolation transformer connected between the wall power and the monitor. It's there to protect the monitor from spikes. Only a few new monitors don't need them.

That's half correct. Only a few new monitors don't need them, but it's not to protect from spikes. It's to "isolate" the monitor from earth ground. That way it keeps you from dying.

iwillfearnoevil · « **Reply #46 on:** June 08, 2004, 12:29:07 pm »

Quote from: Bobby115 on June 06, 2004, 11:11:10 pm

I'm still here. Didn't get a chance to do it yet.........NOT DEAD !

I will probably give it a shot tomorrow night.

You would think asking for some help wouldn't get so many negative responses...

we were just teasing you. trust me when i finally start my cab (and i have no excuses now that i just got some money), i will be asking way more than you i'm sure. good luck and you can do it!

Bobby115 · « **Reply #47 on:** June 08, 2004, 09:39:54 pm »

So looking at these connections on this monitor is it best to say I need a JPAC or can this be hooked up with just slicing the wires and connecting to the VGA cable??

Thanks

Bobby115 · « **Reply #48 on:** June 08, 2004, 10:44:16 pm »

Looking at the game board, here is more info:

Under each Edge Connector one says J1 and the other J2......

Can anyone confirm that this is a JAMMA BOARD??

Thanks

Bobby115 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 08, 2004, 10:54:48 pm »

Can anything here help??

http://www.klov.com/W/World_Soccer_Finals.html

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #50 on:** June 08, 2004, 11:22:59 pm »

It's JAMMA

(.... I know one when I see one ... hehe)

That other edge (J2) on the board must be for players 3 & 4 (.... like the Namco system 11 & 12 boards except bigger

)

If you want to use the monitor ( and there's nothing wrong in doing that) you need to keep the isolation transformer, monitor (hehe), cabinet (lol), monitor wiring harness (R,G,B,SYNC,GND wires), and buy a arcade monitor amplifier (http://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html).

That VGA breakout cable you bought ... sell it

(you'll still need to add an amplifier or your picture on that monitor will be dull ... plus the J-Pac eliminates the need for it too

)

MrArcade · « **Reply #51 on:** June 08, 2004, 11:23:00 pm »

If it is still world soccer finals then no, it is not jamma... from the klov entry you linked:

Conversion Class: unique

it would list Jamma there if it were...so it is not.

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #52 on:** June 08, 2004, 11:45:01 pm »

It uses a standard JAMMA connector ....

Problem is the actual board pinout is slightly different.

The power is wired normal (GND, +5V, -5V, +12V) and then it gets weird. It has the video wired where the player #1 & 2 controls and buttons would be.

For some reason the other connector that would normally just have the player #3 & 4 controls but it has the player #1 & 2 controls and buttons too along with the coin, test, counter, etc (Just from viewing pics and I'm guessing the "Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat" is wired the same. Who knows what the hell possessed them to do this).

I guess it's a little JAMMA and a whole bunch unique ... hehe

That's definitely a cool board when it comes to wiring

That still won't effect you MAMEing that cabinet

Bobby115 · « **Reply #53 on:** June 09, 2004, 05:43:12 am »

So then the only thing I need to get is a JPAC and I'm ready to go??

Thanks for all the help so far

SirPeale · « **Reply #54 on:** June 09, 2004, 07:21:34 am »

Quote from: Cisco Kid on June 08, 2004, 11:45:01 pm

It uses a standard JAMMA connector ....

Problem is the actual board pinout is slightly different.

The power is wired normal (GND, +5V, -5V, +12V) and then it gets weird. It has the video wired where the player #1 & 2 controls and buttons would be.

Then it's not wired for JAMMA, is it? Having a 56 pin connector in there does *not* make it JAMMA. Having it wired for the JAMMA standard, does.

Luckily, rewiring it for JAMMA won't be hard, IF those are 56 pin connectors. Here's a layout of the JAMMA standard:

http://www.pealefamily.net/tech/mame/jamma.html

Pull the pins out (you'll have to use a small flathead screwdriver or a narrow nail or the like) by pressing down on the back of the pin, into the hole. It should pull out easily. If it doesn't, don't force it. After everything is pulled, use the chart referenced above to put the pins back.

Or you can just buy a new JAMMA harness. Bob Roberts has them for like $17 or something, last I checked.

Then you can use a J-PAC, which is just plug and play.

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #55 on:** June 09, 2004, 02:53:27 pm »

All depends on how you define JAMMA ... I've come to define it by the use of the 56 pin "Jamma" connector but that's just me

I've also come to the realization that the only thing all those boards labelled "JAMMA" on Klov's site have in common is that edge connector.

I guess you wouldn't consider the Neo Geo MVS system or a PCB like "Bloodstorm" JAMMA either

BTW ... here's a J-PAC to keep your eyes on (could go real cheap ... probably not after posting it here ... lol)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3945&item=6101994077&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

as for the JAMMA harness ... try $10 - $12 (no money order BS either) : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=6102007038&rd=1

SirPeale · « **Reply #56 on:** June 09, 2004, 04:00:30 pm »

Quote from: Cisco Kid on June 09, 2004, 02:53:27 pm

All depends on how you define JAMMA ... I've come to define it by the use of the 56 pin "Jamma" connector but that's just me I've also come to the realization that the only thing all those boards labelled "JAMMA" on Klov's site have in common is that edge connector.

Yeah...that's the thing. It's a "standard." Once you deviate from that standard, it's not JAMMA.

Quote

I guess you wouldn't consider the Neo Geo MVS system or a PCB like "Bloodstorm" JAMMA either

Unless they adhere to that pinout, no.

Quote

as for the JAMMA harness ... try $10 - $12 (no money order BS either) : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=6102007038&rd=1

I'd rather spend the extra money on an excellent quality harness from Bob, and send him a check, than one like that. Look at the power wires, they're 22 gauge!

Cisco Kid · « **Reply #57 on:** June 09, 2004, 06:34:51 pm »

hmmm ... after having a little time to think about it the JAMMA harness is a waste of money all together.

All you really need is a JAMMA fingerboard $4.50

: http://shop.jammaboards.com/view_product.php?product=JB-1

Just cut the wires from the current harness and solder them onto this board according to the "STANDARD" ... hehe. Then plug that into your J-PAC

SirPeale · « **Reply #58 on:** June 09, 2004, 06:43:59 pm »

Sure, that'll work, as long as he wires for that cabinet, and not the JAMMA standard. Then he can get a video amp, wire that in, and he'll be all set.

Bobby115 · « **Reply #59 on:** June 12, 2004, 05:35:41 pm »

Thanks for all the help Guys.....but I just got a Awsome deal from someone in the neighborhood on a Happs Vision Pro 27........Its used but for $300 with a warrany still in tact, I'm gonna give it a try.

So I'm going to post in the BUY-SELL-TRADE Forum The Monitor - Most Wires-Bezel-Control Panel-Marquee-Game Board-Power Supply-Trasformer.................

For Sale Best offer, PICK UP RIGHT AWAY....I can not ship

I'm in Long Island NY.....Zip Code 11566

Thanks again.........I'm sure I will need help again LOL

Hope you dont think I wasted your time, after all the stuff you guys posted I think with all the reading I did it should help with my other projects

Bobby


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