Project Too Big and Spinny

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TheRetroCarrot:
Should be ready to paint tomorrow! Final sanding and hopefully I have enough primer on the MDF edges to not soak up paint and make a mess...

javeryh:
Looks good so far!

Zebidee:
I've only just looked in at this project, which I regret, as it is ambitious and innovative. Nice work so far!

--- Quote from: TheRetroCarrot on April 29, 2024, 11:05:38 am ---Something I found interesting is that the exact location where I have purity struggles, is where it looks like they tack welded a plate over a seam in the original tube frame at the factory. I'm not sure if this is normal, or why this would have been done over just welding the frame itself. I'm almost thinking this might have been a hacky repair down in the factory for some reason, though it might just be standard. Can't say I've ever noticed on another tube before, and the location made me wonder. Either way I managed to get the purity to an acceptable barely perceptible issue before, I know I'll be able to get it good with enough playing around with magnets. I also ran my degaussing coil over the metal shield while I had it apart, as I suspect it might have gotten magnetized.

--- End quote ---

A thought has occurred to me that perhaps your "purity" issue relates to the horizontal stabilizing wire(s) present in all Sony Trinitron CRTs? They prevent the aperture grill wires from vibrating, but are often faintly visible if you look hard enough.

This is an extreme close-up:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture_grille#/media/File:CRT_Phosphors.jpg
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture_grille

Zeosstud:
What a fantastic project.. I hope you enjoy this for years to come.

Zeosstud

TheRetroCarrot:
Big update day. As the project is now finished outside of adding games and 1 3.5mm-RCA cable that is too short to be cable managed.

Monitor is mounted and cables routed successfully. Used the original PCB mount on some 2x1s and then a 5lb york iron plate to counterbalance so it wouldn't spin on it's own.

Pixelcade marquee and speakers installed, busted off a tab from one of the tweeters but managed to rip out the driver and resolder it without damaging the visible portion of the speaker:

Some simple stoppers at each end of the rotation

As cable managed as I care to do, everything is routed out of the way other than the 1 cable mentioned prior. Once I have that I'll tie everything up a bit better:

Made a 3d printed mount for the amp. Extended the volume pot so I can mount it on the back panel once that goes on:

The screen ended up working out excellent. The mistake with trying to correct purity using magnets was actually putting them on the back of the shield. This worked while running, however as soon as you restarted the TV it would undo your work for some reason. Flipping the magnets to the other side of the shield worked perfect. It now has very good purity on both horizontal and vertical positions. The screen also does not need to be turned off for the degauss circuity to recharge, so long as it's been running for 5ish minutes you can simple turn it off, grab the bezel and spin the whole screen, and turn it back on.

For a front end I'm using big box and just designed a "Confirm Orientation" screen with some graphics which is actually platform selection. I have games separated into vertical and horizontal games in their respective platform. I've then made a fake vertical theme to go along with a modified version of (I forget the name of the theme I modified...................). I ended up doing the vertical theme a bit different since theme videos are always horizontal and I didn't want to remake them for each game.

Lots of adding games to do, and marquee banners to make now. Configuration is very easy now that I have a couple games setup, I can mostly copy configs via RDP and then just tweak screen position and controls on a per game basis from the arcade when I add them.

Overall everything worked out better than I could've hoped. Things I would change would be less gap behind the control panel for the screen to spin, the top only has about .25mm clearance, the bottom has way too much. I would remove all hard edges from the side panels, it turned out okay but the t-molding would definitely sit better with some slight curve to the top edges. Not something anyone would ever notice though.

Also I ordered 43cm Taito official stools since my control panel height is the same as a candy cab. This might have turned out to be a mistake... The screen is simple so massive that at 43cm eye height is a little low in vertical orientation. I'll probably just make some risers with cup holders/wallet basket/ token holders to put under the stools. Or resell them as much as that pains me. It'll be a couple months still until they arrive.

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