Its there a way to use touchtunes hardware with windows?

[abispac]

So let me explain. Last time i had a touchtunes jukebox, it was a wallmounted juke with some nice led lights that would flash nicely and the software was still active, but it only had like old songs in it. So knowing that touchtunes its very very picky, I installed my own PC with touch if I remember correctly, but I could not found a way to make the led lightsor the amp to work with windows, so I did not had any light show or amp service. Now I found a new deal on market place, and I've always wanted to have one of this jukes, but I'm afraid the same thing would happen. So I was wondering if anyone here knows a way to have a working light show and amp with windows installed. Thanks for your help.

[lilshawn]

So let me explain. Last time i had a touchtunes jukebox, it was a wallmounted juke with some nice led lights that would flash nicely and the software was still active, but it only had like old songs in it. So knowing that touchtunes its very very picky, I installed my own PC with touch if I remember correctly, but I could not found a way to make the led lightsor the amp to work with windows, so I did not had any light show or amp service. Now I found a new deal on market place, and I've always wanted to have one of this jukes, but I'm afraid the same thing would happen. So I was wondering if anyone here knows a way to have a working light show and amp with windows installed. Thanks for your help.

unfortunately that particular jukebox pictured in your post (the angelina) is very highly integrated and you can't separate the parts out.

The computer, the amps, and the IO board is plugged onto a backplane board though multi-pin DIN 41612 and/or IEC 60603-2 connectors to connect power/audio/data/inputs/outputs and whatnot of the individual components to each other.

the amps need a signal from the IO board to power on. this is also sent through the backplane,  so if you don't have the touchtunes software running to initialize the IO board, you will never have audio, since the audio is fed out of the computer though the backplane board to the IO board, then out of the IO board through the backplane to the amps.

even if you don't use the amps, you have no way of getting audio out of the computer since the audio flows out off the computer through the backplane. you'd have to peel the computer case apart and tap audio out of the computer directly.

you won't have lightshow because it's also handled by the IO board, the IO board has an LED controller built onto it that sends the signals out to the led strips in the back of the machine, and if you don't have the software to initialize the IO board, you wont get a lightshow.

the IO board connects to the computer through a "USB" connection though the backplane and is what handles the lightshow on the front and back of the machine and switching of the signal to tell the amps to power on... and does the audio conversion needed to feed into the amps.

so unfortunately since the IO handles basically...everything... not being able to initialize it means you can't do anything with the jukebox if you change the software since there is going to be zero support though windows for it since it was designed for linux (which is what the touchtunes OS is based on.)

most of this stuff can be bypassed and made to work in a virtuo or ovation wall boxes and all the floor models since the computers and stuff are all separate... you can even easily fake the signal from the IO board to turn on the amps to use your own audio source or computer in these machines.

you could MAYBE modify the playdium walbox if you are really good with electronics... but definitely not the angelina since those 2 machines devices are so integrated, it's almost impossible to separate...you'd have to gut the angelina of everything but the monitor/touchscreen and put all your own stuff in there.

[lilshawn]

I would also be highly suspect of where that jukebox came from, especially being sold on the faceballs marketplace.

That is one of the newest jukeboxes touchtunes has, it's unlikely an operator is just getting rid of it since there is nothing "newer" for anyone to replace it with. (which would be one of the only real reason for an operator to part with it) and also, since to get one of those from touchtunes right now will run you regular price of $6264 plus taxes and shipping.

just sayin' someone could come knocking on your door if you have it.

[abispac]

I would also be highly suspect of where that jukebox came from, especially being sold on the faceballs marketplace.

That is one of the newest jukeboxes touchtunes has, it's unlikely an operator is just getting rid of it since there is nothing "newer" for anyone to replace it with. (which would be one of the only real reason for an operator to part with it) and also, since to get one of those from touchtunes right now will run you regular price of $6264 plus taxes and shipping.

just sayin' someone could come knocking on your door if you have it.

Its a bummer that basically its a cabinet with a working monitor and perhaps working bill aceptor, maybe the top display can be usable if its just a regular display like the monitor? if not, maybe one can be fitted. My suspichius are this was a place owner that didn't returned the juke to its owner and now its trying to make some money, I really wont mind paying 300 bucks for the cabinet with monitor, I can add my own lights and amp, with computer of course.  I really wont mind hocking it up to the internet and have the real owner pick it up as well. But I really doubt that's gonna happen. Do you think I could make my money back selling the inner parts?

[Mike A]

If you think it is stolen, you should not buy it.

[abispac]

If you think it is stolen, you should not buy it.

Well someone is gonna buy it, so I don't think me not buying it would make any difference, like I said I wouldn't mind connecting it to the internet and had the real owner pick it up, since ill have proof of the guy who sold it to me, so no biggie, then if no one shows up or claims it, ill just have a nice cab with some parts to sell.

[lilshawn]

I wouldn't mind connecting it to the internet and had the real owner pick it up, since ill have proof of the guy who sold it to me

uhmm... i don't think thats how that works. Possession of stolen property is a charge that results from having property knowingly obtained through crime in your control. It is not relevant whether you were the one who stole the property, but simply whether it is in your possession and you knew it was stolen.

I mean, it's your money, you can do what you like. 300 bucks is not a going rate for a jukebox like that, and i'm sure someone is going to jail over it.

I would certainly pay 300 bucks to find out my juke was being sold on me.

[Mike A]

He is going to buy it.

Everything he does is shady.

[lilshawn]

 

you win some, you lose some. sometimes you lose more than you bargained for.

[abispac]

He is going to buy it.

Everything he does is shady.

[abispac]

you win some, you lose some. sometimes you lose more than you bargained for.

I really don't like that guy mikea, he is the type of guy that has double moral. And the type of guy that has nothing good to say and he says it anyway.
i do appreciate your great knowledge and sharing it here.
Just for the records, I don't live in the states, we don't have touchtunes hereeither , so we don't know if this was obtained at a sale or where it comes from. It might be stolen, and the way I see it, Ill make my best to find the owner and get my money back, or if no one claims it, ill just use the cabinet to build my own juke. Not really much to do. Thanks for your help.

[abispac]

Looks good, and the good thing is, if you get rid of the io board you can actually install a cheap led controller board and it will take care of all the RGB leds, it does need a separate led control for the front white bezel, but they all look good. Now I have to play with the bill acceptor to see if I can get them to work. Im still not familiar with Mdb bill acceptors. Im not using amplifier to loose some weight, instead ill use Bluetooth for audio.

[lilshawn]

bill acceptors are coded for a cashcode type serial interface for the MDB protocol. you would need some kind of signal convertor to decode the datastream to find out what bill was inserted.

you will also need to send a signal to enable the acceptor to be able to accept bills... otherwise you need to switch it over to stand alone mode.

[abispac]

bill acceptors are coded for a cashcode type serial interface for the MDB protocol. you would need some kind of signal convertor to decode the datastream to find out what bill was inserted.

you will also need to send a signal to enable the acceptor to be able to accept bills... otherwise you need to switch it over to stand alone mode.

Can this be reprogrammed and converted to pulse?I wont mind buying the programer but if they cant be converted to pulse  ain't gonna be much help.  If not ill probably just sell them. In fact I'm gonna sell all the inner parts as I don't have a use for them. I was gonna keep the power source but it wont trow any power either, so I guess the io board manages it to.

[abispac]

Im not an electronics genius but i can sort stuff out. So this is my ghetto diagram on how to use the Angelina power source in order to use power for less, bill acceptors or anything else.
So by tampering with the power supply I was able to see that it has a cable to turn the power supply on or off, by bridgin the ground on that cable with another ground, I was able to get power on the ,5,12 and 24 v line, icanalso get 110v volts out, ill post pictures later on. I wonder if the amps can be tampered this easy. I'ma start opening one and see.

[abispac]

Amps looked easy to tamper too, ima take them to a friend of mine that is an expert on audio, I bet is the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, one cable to be able to turn them on. The amp has 3 cable moles, one for power with 2 cables, another for the speakers, and the main cable to get audio in, and as I imagine some of those cables will enable the amp to work, will see.

[lilshawn]

there are PDF's available for download on the amp makers website. (search ICEpower 125ASX2 datasheet) it comes complete with pinouts of the headers and everything you need to know about how to use them. but in this case, you would just lift out the enable wire out of the harness (P102-2) and leave it floating... that enables the amp.

[abispac]

there are PDF's available for download on the amp makers website. (search ICEpower 125ASX2 datasheet) it comes complete with pinouts of the headers and everything you need to know about how to use them. but in this case, you would just lift out the enable wire out of the harness (P102-2) and leave it floating... that enables the amp.

I got the feeling you already know the secrets to get things working hahaha, thanks for your help. Ill take a look to see if I can get them to work, do you know if the validaotrs can get reprogrammed? i don't mind buying the programer. But if they cant be converted to pulse, I have no use for them.

[lilshawn]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

  Much appreciated, thanks. Ill take a look on the amps first, make sure they work, and then ill mess with the bill acceptor.  Have a nice easter.

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

Can I bother you 1 more time today please, I started modifying the bill acceptors, all went smoothly I got the cables off the connector so I can modify them for pulse, but I could not find a pinout for them, but based on the manual I imagine 1 and 2 are for the credits, just as any regular arcade right? a bill is inserted and the acceptor will send x mount of pulses in those cables right? and pin 3 and 20 are gonna be my power supply pins, since the acceptor is 24v, it was previously set on pin16 and 23 but since I ain't using mdb anymore I should use the 24v ones right? and I will have an extra cable that was at pin 14, but since I don't use mdb I don't have a use for it, I can just leave it along correct? Thanks for your help.
In the mean time, I'm also adding my ghetto amp diagram, thanks to Lilshawn for the advice to cut the number 2 cable so the amp can be enable, i traked the other cables and i came up with this, I had not tested this yet as i need to buy cables to hook everything up together with the original power source.

[lilshawn]

pin 1 and 2 is your credit line. most games and machines running pulse mode, just get the credit line switched to ground to detect the pulse...so you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to ground or negative in your system and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.

if your system requires the line to go high for a credit issued, you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to your positive rail (5v or whatever...) and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.

pin 3 and 20 is 24v AC input (it runs through a bridge rectifier anyway so honestly i don't think it matters if it's AC or DC there.)
pin 16 and 23 is UP TO 34v DC input. i think it might work down to 12v? 14v? don't quote me. but it does run 24v DC just fine there.

what juke software did you end up running on there? i don't recognise it at all.

[abispac]

For testing purposes i used etouch, but I'm going to use rockbe jukebox, has a cool paid feature that it will download any missing songs from youtube.
Thanks for all your help.
I started to think that maybe I could used the original computer if I can get it to boot windows and find some drivers. its a crazy idea that I'm going to test today.
As it came to me yesterday to use the long PCB in order to connect everything minus the IO board together, as the power brick will be working directly, so everything  should have power. Including the computer, and the computer mother board has a 64gb m drive I can swap maybe. If I have problems with the bios, I do have a bios programmer handy, perhaps I can find a compatible bios that would work, also the motherboard has missing power button and missing front pannel pins I can use, I hope I can even upgrade the ram to 16gb. Will see today as I have to work today and I doubt I'm gonna be to busy(I work from home) ill post results later on, I just need a little solder paste and put a bridge on the powersource to make everything work.
I know the top visualizer is gonna be hard to use, as I already tested it and couldn'tt find any drivers for it, it does display image from the dvi port, but the resolution is so small, even the mouse pointer is to big for it, so maybe I could use it just for the light. Its in reality an 8by64 matrix led display. Anyway ill keep posting this stuff.
EDIT: I was correct, adding a simple cable bridge on the pinouts for the power source on the IO board connections, would allow the power brick to work, givingpower to the PC and everything else. Allowing the computer to boot. But the bios is protected by a password, I will have to either find the password or replace the bios for another one without a password. I still don't test if it would boot windows. Will see, as if it boots it, I wont need to modify the bios. I also traced the amplifier input pinouts to the IO board connections, so I'm guessing those are the only extra cables I would need. If I ever make the computer to use windows, I wont even bother tapping it to find the audio outs, I will use an USB audio card instead.Everything is coming together nicely, I'm only hope for 2 important things so I font have to buy to much stuff. 1  that the amps work fine as is, and 2 that the computer would work with windows without much trouble.

[lilshawn]

yeah it's a regular old computer. it'll run whatever OS you put on there. drivers might be interesting to find. you might have to pick and choose generic driver sets for like the chipset and whatnot.

that's all the led display at the top is... a secondary monitor with a low resolution. all it does is display an EQ in various colors.

i'm not sure what the password for the angelina bios is. i know the passwords for all the other jukes, but not that one (they are all different) i havent had to get in there on any of the ones we have. it would be like "juke[YEAR]" i'm not sure what year the angelina came out.... maybe 2019? try a bunch of years, you wont get locked out.

[abispac]

Well, it runs windows 11 on mbr mode with no problems not missing to many driver, so hopefully ill find them. Runs of the m driver so perhaps ill change it for a bigger newer one.

[abispac]

I installed windows 11 and found some compatible drivers, all looks good, but I still debating on whether to use that existing 64gb m drive or to replace it with a 1tb drive I have on my work PC, as my work PC really does no use all that much space. I tried juke(year) for the password to see if I could change settings in order to use uefi instead of mbr, but I had no luck , I tried from 1997 to 2025, just in case  to a no good, and I've seen this bios are very picky to read via a USB programmer, so I guess ill stay away from it in order to not screw things up.

So far so good. Im happy with the results, now I'm transferring files in order to test the whole thing live.

[abispac]

So the computer works, and it works fine, but im still debating on wheter i should keep it or not since having the bios locked, it wont give me to many options to modify it in order to save me from trouble in the future. One of them being that the computer wont shut down. And thats important, as i dont want to leave the juke on all the time. Maybe on linux it was not a big  deal to turn the juke on and off of the switch directly, but we all know windows is more picky than that, especially if it has a sata harddrive. Now the second issue is (im getting old and behind on harddrive technology) that even though the computer has a m2 compatible connector, it wont take m2 drives, i tried to use my personal one, and it wont detect it. I beleive its an m2 sata connector? as the drive it has right now its an ssd sata drive, that it looks like an m2, but after looking in google i found out its a sata drive, just like the one at the bottom on the following picture, so to not complicate things more, ill just get me a bigger sata drive, te hardrive with sata cables i mean. So im gonna keep it simple. Also it looks like this  type of bios can be decrypted to get the password, so ima try that in order to have acces to the bios to see if it can be modified so the computer can shut down.So far thats all i got left, if icant make the computer shut down, ill just repurpose it for a recalbox arcade console and sticka mini pc in the juke that would support m2 drive. All depends if i can get the bios password cracked. I really would like to keep it original inside as it looks clean and nice even though it does have a space where the IO board was. Anyway, ill keep posting. To bad my  phone broke and i dont get another one till wesneday, that the reason i post ghetto drawings instead of pictures.

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

[abispac]

I think im gonna try some new bill acceptors as these ones don't want to cooperate hahaha, in the meantime, I'm filling up the hard drive and on Friday ima purchase the software, rockbe jukebox. It plays local files, plus for a 5dlls a month feature, you can play missing songs of the internet. Jukebox-looking fly has heck, hopefully, ill have It fully working this month.
If anyone wants to provide advice on these bill acceptors or wants to buy them please let me know, I also can sell the IO board as well.

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

[abispac]

Heres how it looks, almost ready.

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

I kinda like freebox/etouch better. You should look into Zenpoint Digital Center.

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

I kinda like freebox/etouch better. You should look into Zenpoint Digital Center.

Etouch was nice for its time, but the tag in the music and videos made it a pain in the ass to configure, plus it always had bugs, always, the skin toll is not so user friendly and the commercial use was to expensive. Rockbe has what I need for the moment, Eazy to use and fair commercial use.

[lilshawn]

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

could be that the additional items on the circuit board required to run the acceptor to output in pulse mode have not been populated. i just looked at a revision "8" board from a newer acceptor that died and all the items related to  the pulse output part are not populated, but a revision "2.2" board from and old unit i have here that died, does... so i'm not sure when it changed. it's possible your board in your acceptor is new enough to not have the parts to output pulse, even though it can be switched to pulse.

[abispac]

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

could be that the additional items on the circuit board required to run the acceptor to output in pulse mode have not been populated. i just looked at a revision "8" board from a newer acceptor that died and all the items related to  the pulse output part are not populated, but a revision "2.2" board from and old unit i have here that died, does... so i'm not sure when it changed. it's possible your board in your acceptor is new enough to not have the parts to output pulse, even though it can be switched to pulse.

Mine looks like this, so I might still have hope?  The green means its the one that works right?

[lilshawn]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

[abispac]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

Thanks, ill look into that and post results for the future. Thank you kind.

[abispac]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

Ok lets try again. Can you please help me understand what I'm doing like a 5 year old please? hahaha
Let me explain. Im used to hook push buttons to arcade games. hot to one end of the keyboard encoder and common to all grounds of every push button, and the main ground to the keyboard encoder. Now, in the past, the bill acceptro I used for a juke, I did hooked it in a similar way, except, that because the pulses were to weak for the keyboard encoder to take them as push buttons, I used an arduino 5v relay to achieve a trick. So if I remember correctly and I might be wrong, this is how i did it. As you can see on the image, i connected the acceptor ground to ground on the relay, injected 5v to vcc and the NO on bill acceptor to gpio or signal. So everytime the bill acceptor would send pulses, they would be converted to regular push button signals that the encoder could detect. Hopefully i explained myself with all this.

So i tried the same approach with this bill acceptor, to a no good result. Using a multimeter, i cant see any pulses coming out of the acceptor.
I really don't understand how low and high signals work, but i imagine the bigger the number the better as the encoder or whatever it take the signal would have more time to read the signal, right?
And you mention ""if your system requires the line to go high for a credit issued, you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to your positive rail (5v or whatever...) and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.""
This confuses me a little bit because i was thinking that adding 5v would make the signal act as a push button signal, and in that case that would make the NO cable a ground cable? maybe I'm mixing things up.

So all that being said, do you by any chance have an idea how can i manage to convert the pulse signal to a regular rpush button signal, without any expensive hardware?
Thanks for your help.

[lilshawn]

the acceptor has all the switching ability in it already. you don't need an external relay or anything. you would just attach the credit NO line to your microcontroller... (probably with like a 10k resistor tied to +5v to hold it high) and attach the credit com to ground.

then program your microcontroller to detect the line going from high (it's normal condition) to low and when it does, issue whatever command you see fit. my recommendation would be to set up the microcontroller as an HID keyboard and have it output a keystroke your software can convert to a credit.

[abispac]

So im gonna have to wait till payday in order to buy the 10k resistor and the arduino in order to test the bill acceptor. In the meantime, I'm still trying to break the bios password in order to see if either 1 , the bios can be modified to allow the PC to be turned on and off with the missing power button that i  want to install if I can modify the bios, or 2 update the bios with a compatible bios in order to add those options. I spent hours looking for a motherboard that looks similar and there are many asus that look like it.Its an  LGA1151 motherboard but that's all i got. I'm not a bios expert, I do have a USB bios reader but the pin is broken so I have to buy one so I can read the bios directly and see if I can break the password.  I have erased bios in the past and replace them with clean one, i just need to find the correct bios or compatible bios so i can replace it.

Now, what happened to the days when you could simply remove the battery and erase the password?

Here I see that it has some options to play with the bios, but since I already removed the battery, pressed the erase bios button and the password persists, I imagine it's like a laptop bios that can't really be fully erased.
I don't know, I'm running out of ideas, but if anyone has fresh ideas, let me know so I can put them to work, thanks for your help.
I also cant seem to find the bios chip, the one marked as baox19 seems suspicious , but I cant find anything about it.
Ps I love how simple and easy to use the rockbe software is.

[lilshawn]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

Yeah, I already tried them all to no good luck. Yesterday I took the PC apart as you can see in the pictures, and soldered cables to the bios unexistent pinouts to see if using pin 2-3 debug mode, would allow me to erase the bios password.
EDIT: since the startup screen shows 1998-2018 I even tried that number, I tried all from juke1998 to juke2024 and also juke1998-2018 , nothing works.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

 

[abispac]

Man what a trip, thanks for all the help I have received, now with access to the bios, I need to find the options that would let me turn off the computer without cutting the electricity. As right now if I choose shutdown, the computer would just restart. Anyway thanks a lot again Lilshawn. Ill keep posting my stuff here.

[mahkeymike]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

[lilshawn]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

quite the opposite, grounding the green power on wire will tell the power supply to power on... regardless if the computer is ready or not. but in this case, won't work, due to the fact that this particular motherboard has nothing but a backplane interface... the computer (i think) just runs on 12v from the power supply box through the backplane connector.



i believe the shutdown issue might be with windows. i've run into the scenario where doing a shutdown results in the computer rebooting and it's usually an update the breaks it since windows thinks it has better drivers for the chipset than I do. (pro tip... no you fugging don't Bill.)

Open the Control Panel

At the top of the old Control Panel, search for "power"

Select "Power & Sleep"

scroll down and choose "Additional power settings"

on the left side of the new window, "choose what the power buttons do"

Under 'Shutdown settings' disable 'Turn on fast startup'

If the box is grayed out, you'll need to click the text at the top that says "Change Settings that are currently unavailable"

in fact... turn off all the things. they don't work, and in a world full of SSD storage, and 32 gigs of ram we dont need to sleep and hibernate and crap anymore. It's pointless cause it was all designed to help computers boot up faster... but these days? who cares if my PC takes 50 seconds to boot instead of 20. it doesn't take 10 minutes anymore.

[mahkeymike]

Have you tried shutdown /r from command prompt?

[abispac]

Update on the bill acceptors: Im giving up on them, It seems they don't output any pulses at all, its ok, I'ma buy some new ones.
Usb audio works nice.
Im having issues with HDMI not sending any video to the second screen. Im not sure if I broke something, as when I was testing the PC the first time, I was using the HDMI output and it worked fine previously. Its ok for now, will look into that later.
There are no visible options to change the computer from always on to be able to shut down. But I'm starting to think it has either a secondary bios or hidden bios options as there is no way to erase the bios password. I don't think the computer not being able to shut down has anything to do with windows, since I've already formated the PC again in uefi mode since I changed the bios for that.
Im 100% sure its either a hidden bios option or a an option on the power button.
Perhaps ill use it just as it is working now, and in the future ill replace the PC with a regular mini itx PC. But ill keep digging for future information.
The Bios has me wondering, because like I said before, you cant erase the main pasnsword, yes you can set an administrator password and an user password, but if you want to get into de bios, you still have to use the original password, so it has to have hidden options.
Anyway ill keep posting as I still play with it. I still don't have have powerful enough speakers to test the amps.
Right now I'm using my bedroom sound bar hehehe with the USB to aux dongle.
I really love this software, easy to use, no tag friendly, and being able to play music from the internet, makes not having to update your juke a nice feature. To bad is in Spanish.
Ill post a video later tomorrow.

[lilshawn]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

[abispac]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

Ill just put it to work like it is now and buy a new computer once I get money out of it hehehe, but it was a great learning curve. thanks Lilshawn for all the help.

[abispac]

So the old owner of the angelina, liked the juke so much, he is willing to trade it for virtuo with the base included, I believe the base is the speaker.... Should I do the trade?

Mr LilShawn, can you enlight me on the hardware difference, beside having a credit card reader and a bigger screen....

Thanks for your feedback.

[lilshawn]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sounds like I should keep the Angelina then, I really don't have an use for the stand. Im sending the acceptors today to a dealer that would update them to a regular non touchtunes firmware in order for me to use them as 12v pulse type.  Thats all that is left before I put it in a place to work.
The guy wants 600 DLLs for the virtuo wich is a great deal, but I don't have that kind a money right now.
Im hoping for a Christmas miracle on may hehehe

[mahkeymike]

Your not in the US correct?(shame) i would go with the Virtuo, the earlier models have a ps2 keyboard port 

[abispac]

Your not in the US correct?(shame) i would go with the Virtuo, the earlier models have a ps2 keyboard port 

No I'm not in the US, the guy said someone owed him money and payed him with the Angelina and the virtuo, that's why he ain't afraid to post them , he did not steal them. Once I had the videos of the Angelina working with another software, he wanted to trade them. BUt I think I'm stay for the reason Im about to accommodate the Angelina at a bar, and don't want to spend another 2 months trying to get the virtuo working. Maybe if I see that the bar is giving good earnings, ill buy the virtuo as well.

[abispac]

So i didnt had the time to test whether the amps were working correctly or not, today I did that, turns out my pinout was somehow wrong. If you look at the picture, you can see, there are 4 audio outlets and 1 ground, thats left right for amp 1, and left right for amp 2, ground is shared. They work nice and sound great, although I don't like that when I turn the PC on, theres a pop sound on the speaker as the USB audio interface turns on and of several times. Il see if I can find a work around for that.
Im also waiting for  local currency bill acceptor that I bought to see if I can make it fit in there without to much modification on the outside. Also I did send out the acceptors I had to a company that will update them with 2018 pulse firmware, he said and I quote.

The PULSE protocol was only included with our V6 (Vending) models, per Touchtunes' request to support their older legacy jukeboxes. Since 2018, TT no longer supports these older legacy configurations and have since then removed that interface from the V6 firmware. Thus, the V6 now only supports the MDB protocol, as originally anticipated.

We still have archived versions of this firmware available, but it's not advised to use them, as they will lack any newer security and bill pattern updates to block counterfeit bills and allow for better acceptance

To be honest, we don't get many dollar users here, so I'm not worried about people using fake money to play music, so I did go with it, I'm just waiting for them to arrive and test them out.

Once I install the acceptors, and everything gets to be working correctly, then I'ma think to see if I should exchange it for the virtuo with speaker stand or if I should keep it, will see.

[mahkeymike]

What country are you from? I would be interested in the Angelina guts ( mobo, ioboard, ect...ect )

[abispac]

What country are you from? I would be interested in the Angelina guts ( mobo, ioboard, ect...ect )

I got nothing to sell, the juke is working with all of its original hardware minus the IO board, Im even using the led matrix for RGB lights. Lik ei said, I'm using rockbe irocker touch lite, as the software, its simple and works nice, has some nice features as well, plus if you are missing a song or something new comes up, it will pull up the song/video from youtube.  Ill post a nice video of it tomorrow.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

[lilshawn]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

i don't know how the stand is configured exactly... they are made by a 3rd party.

the amps are the exact same amps... they just stuck 2 of the modules in the same box.

with using a red DI box, you don't need to change the amps at all... it's literally how they interconnect.

the "red" DI box has RCA input and and Ethernet cable balanced output. then, the other end of the cat 5 plugs right into the amp. you have to supply 12v to the DI box to power it. you can buy a pre-made power adapter that plugs right in, or just wire on a 12v power brick or other supply to the appropriate places on the board.

the "BLUE" DI boxes convert the balanced audio ethernet back into standard RCA (for instance, connecting from the IO board zones to an external house system)

since you won't be using the IO board, you won't need any blue DI boxes unless you want to convert your computer audio to balanced with a red box...send it long distance over an ethernet cable, then convert it back to RCA to hook up to a house system.

one red DI box can feed audio out to 2 amps when externally powered, which is enough for the amp in the virtuo. (since it's 2 amps in one case) if you need feed a DA415 blue amp as well, you'll need another red DI box for that amp.

the DA415 amp will likely need the caps in the amp serviced. they all do.

[abispac]

Im like 80% inclined to trade it for the virtuo just for the stand, that it should be a speaker to. but I'm not sure if the computer will be powerful enough as the Angelina computer, it shouldn't be a problem,I can always install a better one. Also I really  don't like the blue ampas it looks more complicated to use as the current amps were easy to hack and use, I wonder if the virtuo led will also be easy to hack as the angelinas were, basically just bypass the original led controls and install a cheap Chinese control.i could install a coin acceptor where the cc reader is. And to be honest, I've always wanted a virtuo instead of an Angelina, I love the virtuo design, like a giant mp3 player.

[lilshawn]

honestly, the virtuo is 100x easier to play around with. the computer is a regular ITX motherboard. the power supply is basically a modified ATX power supply (addition of +24vdc to run monitor and bill acceptors) so if you want to swap it out for something different, it's pretty easy.

since it's a regular old computer motherboard, the audio comes out of the same regular old 1/8" headphone jacks on the motherboard back panel as your average desktop... so getting audio out is super easy. the older 300651-001 part number computers are kinda meh performance wise, the 300759-001 were mush better.

the RGB rim lighting is a 3 pin system (not sure which though) you'll have to look more into it. basically power, ground and a data wire. it's RGB...but not individually addressable.

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

if the LED array has one half that is all messed up, (common issue) replacing an IC chip (74HC245) on that half of the display fixes it. it will probably need the caps changed out on it. most do.

LCD monitor usually needs the caps changed out on the backlight inverter board. 4 screws and it comes right out. don't need to take the panel out or anything.

like anything that is getting old, most stuff needs caps replace in them due to cheap china caps being used in manufacturing. the only devices I've never had an issue with is the power supply (short of lightning strikes/power surges killing them) and the amps (Danish engineering FTW) i've repaired everything else in these machines.

[abispac]

honestly, the virtuo is 100x easier to play around with. the computer is a regular ITX motherboard. the power supply is basically a modified ATX power supply (addition of +24vdc to run monitor and bill acceptors) so if you want to swap it out for something different, it's pretty easy.

since it's a regular old computer motherboard, the audio comes out of the same regular old 1/8" headphone jacks on the motherboard back panel as your average desktop... so getting audio out is super easy. the older 300651-001 part number computers are kinda meh performance wise, the 300759-001 were mush better.

the RGB rim lighting is a 3 pin system (not sure which though) you'll have to look more into it. basically power, ground and a data wire. it's RGB...but not individually addressable.

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

if the LED array has one half that is all messed up, (common issue) replacing an IC chip (74HC245) on that half of the display fixes it. it will probably need the caps changed out on it. most do.

LCD monitor usually needs the caps changed out on the backlight inverter board. 4 screws and it comes right out. don't need to take the panel out or anything.

like anything that is getting old, most stuff needs caps replace in them due to cheap china caps being used in manufacturing. the only devices I've never had an issue with is the power supply (short of lightning strikes/power surges killing them) and the amps (Danish engineering FTW) i've repaired everything else in these machines.

Do you know if the computer uses an m drive as the Angelina? because using a regular data drive on the Angelina makes things awful slower. I ended up using the original m drive plus an USB 3.0 to m2 drive adapter for the music files.

[lilshawn]

the 651 computer does not, it only has sata.

i'm unsure of the 759.

[abispac]

YEs, i just had my tp70 bill acceptor delivered today, I'm gonna have to make some adjustments to fit there, but it should work, ill post some pictures later on today.

[abispac]

So the to70 acceptor works, but its weird how it works only with the arduino and not with the relay itself, but Lilshawn its correct, using the arduino as hid keyboard encoder will make things easier. Today I got this pictures,  the guy wants 500 for the virtuo jukebox with the stand included. Im gonna buy it to.

[abispac]

the 651 computer does not, it only has sata.

i'm unsure of the 759.

This one is the 759 so it should be the last model tye I guess. Hope I don't get to many blown caps problems.

[abispac]

No super glue or silicon glue needed, YES, so I detached the front bottom part, and took it apart, and without the front cover of the bill acceptor, it has 2 screw holes in the front, all I had to do was, modify the steel part of the juke, as open the hole a bit more, added 2 drywall screws, and it fits just right. feels strong so we can call it a successful mod. Now I have a working 12v pulse tp70 bill acceptor. Now today ill see where do I install the arduino so I can hook the bottom hidden push buttons and the bill acceptors. Stay tuned for more.

[lilshawn]

that virtuo door has been pried open, so it's going to need a bit of work to get the latches lined back up again to get it closing and latching closed proper again.

that monitor in there is an older monitor. if you can get the guy to power it on and see that the monitor working before you hand over cash, that would be best. if the picture looks good, your golden. if it has black spots, i'd avoid it. the panels are an odd size (26") and not really available anymore. a new unit from touchtunes runs about 1100 buckazoids. if it looks good, and you do get it, recap the backlight inverter.

the LED array board has been replaced with a newer revision. it has a 16x72 (i think) resolution. it is less prone to capacitor and decoder IC failure issues, but more prone to pixel issues.

[abispac]

So i couldnt find a danm compatible arduino I could use as a hid keyboard, so I'm gonna go with an old trick. Back in the day like 10 years ago or more, people was crazy to have a jukebox at theirhomes or partys. Man I really made money selling some ugly home made jukeboxes, with sk jukebox first, then with freebox, now those days are over. But I remembered that , to use sk jukebox with use some kind of membrane keyboard to use the software, so I posted the ad lookingfor one of them, and voala, I found one for 25 bucks, kinda expensive for this days, but I don't have to wait for shipping. Anyway, it can be used for the bill accpetors plus adds some buttons to it as well, so I can ad the cancel and volume buttons. Anyway ill post results later on today.

[abispac]

Yes, it works, tomorrow i should get the reprogrammed v6 acceptor and will test them to. If the job was well done, it should work out of the box.

[lilshawn]

meh, you do what you can to make it work sometimes. 

i have a bunch of Minimus AVR boards that i got back in the Kade days... 10 some odd years back, that are already setup to take pin signals going low and turn them into various keyboard key presses. (all configurable) shows up as a USB keyboard to windows. shame they didn't do more... it's was looking like a solid project.

in any case, a program called "atmel flip" will update the bootloader of your arduino so you can upload a keyboard HID file into it, so it just boots directly to HID mode. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Arduino-HID-Keyboard/

[abispac]

V6 acceptor are back, they are not working, I hate when this happens. They said they updated the firmware but no pulse or 5v are coming out of the credit wires. ktemen.... 

[abispac]

meh, you do what you can to make it work sometimes. 

i have a bunch of Minimus AVR boards that i got back in the Kade days... 10 some odd years back, that are already setup to take pin signals going low and turn them into various keyboard key presses. (all configurable) shows up as a USB keyboard to windows. shame they didn't do more... it's was looking like a solid project.

in any case, a program called "atmel flip" will update the bootloader of your arduino so you can upload a keyboard HID file into it, so it just boots directly to HID mode. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Arduino-HID-Keyboard/

I got a working acceptor already with the board I posted earlier, the ardionos I get locally, are either atmega 328 or smd something like that,both are not compatible to turn them into hid keyboards.  To bad the original v6 wont work, I really trusted that payway company, but they did not do a good job. I only canhope to get my money back, minus the shipping. I hate when people do that, I mean I'm pretty sure all they did was upload the old firmware and they didn't care about testing them, even though they said they tested them out, its a lie, because once they got to my home, they magically wont work. Freaking liars.  If I get my money back , I'm buying another acceptor.

[abispac]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

[lilshawn]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

highly related...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ofKg65lNiB0