PC Engine 6 button controller

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PL1:

--- Quote from: pdco_arcade on October 17, 2023, 01:59:50 pm ---Review of the PCB files show nodes J4.5, U1.11, RN1.6, J1.6, U1.1, U3.1, RN3.2 are all connected together.
Clearly this was not the intent. There should be 2 nets - J4.5, U1.11, RN1.6 and J1.6, U1.1, U3.1, RN3.2.
I think the cause of this is both J1.6 and J4.5 use the label SEL on the schematic.

--- End quote ---
Nice catch. :cheers:

Haven't checked if your recommended PCB mod with trace cuts and jumper wires would make the PCB match the schematic, but your explanation makes sense and all seven nodes being connected to one net (SEL) is shown in the schematic PDF outline under Nets - SEL - Pins.

Scott

pbj:
Since I've already got two assembled boards and this seemed like a simple enough mod, I went ahead and cut the traces and added the jumper wires.

Only difference in behavior is now it hits the system with a Button I and Select input at the same time when the PCB is plugged in. SF2 - same deal. Plays fine but skips the cut scenes and pulls up the input screen before each match. Strip Fighter everything is fine in the menus, no movement during the game (3 or six button mode). Everdrive Clone - pulls up the BIOS/Firmware information (same as a Button I input) when initially plugged in but no movement in menus. CD menu - six button mode - seems to constantly pulse the main menu with Select, which brings up memory management screen. In 3 button mode it behaves normally. Rondo, he jumps in the air and does a super attack when plugged in (again, that's select and I at the same time).

So, it's like.... *slightly* different but mostly the same.

Should I throw in a filter cap somewhere? This is my PCB where I haven't soldered in all those extra filter caps.

Zebidee:

--- Quote from: pbj on October 17, 2023, 04:36:35 pm ---Should I throw in a filter cap somewhere? This is my PCB where I haven't soldered in all those extra filter caps.

--- End quote ---

You need those 100nF/0.1uF/104 ceramic caps to support the four ICs Vcc. They must be physically close to the IC's Vcc pins. Otherwise they might not work right.

Suggest a 100uF cap (or similar) across the 5v and GND landing pads, +'ve to 5v and -'ve to GND. There is a 47uF listed on the schematic, seems to be within appropriate range, give it a go. This is a simple mod so you can just see how it goes and remove/modify the value if needed. Make sure you have the polarity correct.

The caps store and release power. We might call them "filter" caps, and in some ways they are, but in this instance they are more about providing a consistent power supply to the circuit, as needed.

This may or may not solve some/all of your issues, but will help you to eliminate power supply.

pdco_arcade:
Now type slowly for me. I do not know the jargon.
Have never owned or played these video game consoles.

via google I do now know the difference between Street Fighter and Strip Fighter!

Yes the power bypass capacitors for each IC is important. The IC data sheets call for them to be used.

Is the assumption correct that a standard, off the shelf controller does not display the same effects when plugged in with the game console power ON?

And commercial controllers still operate the game console OK?

For now lets forget the events when the controller is plugged hot. I mean plug in the controller and power up the game console. And only test 2-3 button mode. No 6 button mode yet. Initially had all the configuration jumpers between pins 1 & 2 - so basic operating mode.

How does the PCB work under these conditions?

Would it be possible to assemble another PCB without the extra components for the 6 button operation? Mainly do not populate U3 & U4.
Just to keep their loads off the J1.6 SEL input.

Also be possible to verify static operation? To start:
Not connected to the game console.
Just connect +5V power & ground to J1.1 & J1.8 respectively.
All configuration jumpers ( J2, J3, J5, J6 ) pin1 to pin 2.
No connection to J4.
Measure the outputs with a volt meter ( J1.2, J1.3, J1.4, J1.5)

Like this would expect all outputs to be near zero volts.
Now connect J1.7 ( CLR ) to ground. Would expect all outputs to be near 5V.

Actuate button inputs ( tie to ground ) UP, RIGHT, DOWN, LEFT one at a time and measure all 4 outputs each time.
Here would expect measurements to be:
UP ( J4.7) - D0 low, all others high
RIGHT ( J4.8) - D1 low, all others high
DOWN ( J4.9) - D2 low, all others high
LEFT ( J4.10) - D3 low, all others high
Connect J1.6 ( SEL ) to ground.
Repeat measurements using button inputs I ( J4.3), II ( J4.4), SEL ( J4.5), RUN ( J4.6).

Have you found the logic probe?

pbj:
Acknowledging your post, I will make another attempt to find my logic probe. I have the materials to assemble 10 pcbs, so I will make a stripped down version as you’ve requested. I may finally break down and buy an official six button controller just to compare behavior…

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