Lichtknarre: Unmodified Wii remote as a sight accurate Lightgun using 2/4 LEDs

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RandyT:
Note to self: If MAME says a game is not working, it's really not working, no matter how much it seems to be (duh).

My issues with VC were almost entirely related to testing with incomplete emulation. Lag, missed shots not showing locations (as it turns out they should have been) and some hits not even registering were making things tougher in MAME than they should have been. A properly working emulator for this title made a massive difference.

If there was a reload button which wasn't on top of the gun, gameplay with this setup would be nearly perfect. I dare say as good as a CRT lightgun and maybe even better in some aspects. That's something I never thought I would be typing. :o

BadMouth:

--- Quote from: RandyT on November 26, 2022, 02:33:35 am ---If there was a reload button which wasn't on top of the gun, gameplay with this setup would be nearly perfect. I dare say as good as a CRT lightgun and maybe even better in some aspects. That's something I never thought I would be typing. :o

--- End quote ---

Virtua Cop works fine in Model 2 Emulator. Using gun as a mouse works by default, but the Troubleshooter 2 program is required to have 2 guns working.
I haven't had time to set up Troubleshooter 2 and Demulshooter for proper 2 player action. My dishwasher leaked and ruined the subfloor, so now I have to do a kitchen remodel including building the cabinets. I was looking forward to doing it someday, but not under these circumstances with this low of a budget.

Just in case you don't have it set, there is an option in mame.ini for...

offscreen_reload 1

TimeCrisis:
anyone got pcsx2 or TC5 working on it yet? geekonarium's video link said he couldn't get it to work.

Howard_Casto:
I've been quietly following this thread waiting for you guys to figure out the best leds/spacing/ect. Once you do it's rather trivial to send rumble/led commands to a wiimote, which of course could be hacked to control a solenoid.

RandyT:

--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on December 04, 2022, 10:14:45 pm ---I've been quietly following this thread waiting for you guys to figure out the best leds/spacing/ect. Once you do it's rather trivial to send rumble/led commands to a wiimote, which of course could be hacked to control a solenoid.

--- End quote ---

For the LEDs, the ones BadMouth found are working really well. I can't imagine a reason for looking further, unless one has a specifically different type of installation in mind (i.e. projector). But I very much recommend that they be tested with a standard 1.5v battery (or a bench supply set to 1.5v if you have one) prior to soldering. The third string I put together was dead when I tested it, and I was extremely conscious to the polarity so I knew it wasn't a wiring error on my part. Turns out that the first LED in the string was completely dead, and either it was that way out of the package, or I put a little too much heat to it, which is possible, but unlikely. I also noticed that at least one of them I tested from the package had a very different current draw at the same voltage as the others, which is really only observable with a bench supply or a meter. If possible, it's a good idea to look at this as well before making the string.

But so far, I have had these running for many hours without issues, which brings me to another point. BadMouth's observation about the 840nm having an advantage of being slightly visible, to help prevent leaving them on when not in use, is spot on. They are absolutely not distracting during use (I don't even see them), but serve as a gentle reminder to turn them off, which I have forgotten to do on several occasions.

RE: Positioning.

I've used the little application I made twice, and both times everything just worked after eyeballing positions against the lines on the screen after the measurements were taken. As the last one was on my 37" CRT, it also helped to adjust the image size and position properly. Honestly, positioning was the easiest part. TIP: if using this on a CRT, set it and forget it (size and position). If you like to twiddle knobs on your CRT, you will screw up your nice calibration. In that sense, flat panels are more dimensionally stable.

RE: Rumble.

The software already sends a rumble to the remote on trigger press, so it wouldn't be hard to turn that into a solenoid actuation. The trick would be to come up with a "driver" for each game to inject it into the control stream, without messing up the core function of the Lichtknarre software. But I expect that may be possible at some point using the plug-in system he has planned.

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