| Main > Lightguns |
| Lichtknarre: Unmodified Wii remote as a sight accurate Lightgun using 2/4 LEDs |
| << < (13/68) > >> |
| RandyT:
After conversing with Fusselkroete, I'm even more stoked about his software. I never even realized that the gyro was being utilized. One thing I can say is when I can get it to do it's magic on my setup, it works great. RE: Bluetooth. Usually when there is a Bluetooth problem, it either A: doesn't connect at all or B: there is a lack of connected device support. Neither of which seemed to be happening, so I assumed that it shouldn't be the source of the issues, because at times, it worked perfectly. However, having dealt with similar issues personally with different USB chipsets, it's not beyond the realm of possibility that the Bluetooth implementation (in my case, a modern Intel Wireless chipset) has some differences from the implementation used in the vast selection of known working BT USB dongles. If Fusselkroete can pinpoint that source of contention, then great, but until then I will be picking up the same dongle he uses, to aid in testing. Either I'll have a perfectly working setup with portability between systems as a result, or I'll be able to remove it as a possibility for what I have been seeing. Either way is a positive, as the adapters aren't costly :) But honestly, I am not convinced that BT is the cause of the behaviors I am seeing (I won't refer to them as "issues", because I haven't done any actual gameplay testing yet, and it's unlikely to cause major problems). As of now, I have tested with 4 different bluetooth adapters. 1 which connected perfectly with the native Windows Bluetooth stack. I have also tested with 3 other "generic" USB dongle BT adapters through the Toshiba Bluetooth stack. 2 of these connected up right away, while 1 was a little more problematic in getting the Toshiba stack to talk to it. However, all were tested and showed exactly the same behavior, tested with two different Wii remotes. Were I to guess, and let me stress that I am :), my guess would be that the algorithm which processes the acceleration values is at the root of the undesirable behavior. But thankfully, Fusselkroete has been very responsive and is "on the hunt" for a solution. For that I am grateful, as this setup works nearly perfectly and I am excited to put it to use. RE: LEDs. ------------- WARNING: Do things the way you want and don't think that just because it works for me, it'll work for you. Parts and installation skills vary, so test everything to make sure it meets your standards for safety and reliability. The following is not a recommendation! ------------- With that out of the way, I just thought I would provide an update on my LED install. The 6.5v supply and the 4 850nm LEDs soldered in series with 18ga wire to act as a de-facto heat sink, terminated to a 1/4w resistor labeled as .1 ohms, seems to be working just fine. The LEDs are warm, as is about 3" of the connecting wires on each side of the LED, but not approaching anything I would consider hot. The 2.5amp supply I selected barely gets warm even after many hours of being powered continuously. On the 50" screen, I am able to be 10' away and still have them visible to the camera. So, I'm pretty happy with the way this has been working out so far. However, with this type of setup, the wire will affect things, so that's important to consider. A fraction of an ohm of resistance will change how much power the LEDs get, and the wire is sinking heat from them. Therefore, differences in length and gauge will very likely show different overall results. Anyone deciding to go this route should at minimum check operating temperatures of everything on occasion, and definitely place an appropriately small fuse in-line in case something were to go wrong. And be sure to turn them off when not actively being used or unattended. If one of the LEDs should happen to stop consuming it's share of the power and passes it on to the others, the rest will get real hot, real fast, so a current limiting device such as the one used by BadMouth is a much safer approach. |
| BadMouth:
For the record my Asus USBBT500 bluetooth dongle has behaved perfectly since installing on the cab. With Lichtknarre running in the background all I have to do is turn on the guns and press/release the sync button. Haven't timed it, but after anywhere from a few to ten seconds they both pair and are ready to go. I tested it by turning off the guns and turning them back on a few hours later as well as shutting the computer down and powering it back on. I think they'll work out fine on the cab. The user just has to know to press the sync button and wait for it to pair (indicated by the lights on the gun). I just measured and from my playing position the tip of the gun is only 25" from the 27" (16:9) screen. The lens on the guns look flat from the outside, but it must be fisheye. New wire comes in today. I will know more when I start configuring games. |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: BadMouth on November 08, 2022, 03:24:50 pm ---For the record my Asus USBBT500 bluetooth dongle has behaved perfectly since installing on the cab. With Lichtknarre running in the background all I have to do is turn on the guns and press/release the sync button. Haven't timed it, but after anywhere from a few to ten seconds they both pair and are ready to go. --- End quote --- That describes exactly the simple experience I had with the Intel on-board BT and the standard stack shipped with Win10. Once paired in the BT devices, Windows knew about the controllers and they just connected with the double button press from that time on. Very pain-free compared to having to use an external BT stack like the Toshiba one, so having a BT adapter which works with the native Windows stack is definitely a big plus. Edit: Just started from scratch again and saw that Lichtknarre didn't even require the (secret?) BT setup step from within Windows. It just paired it up....amazing as usual :) |
| BadMouth:
LEDs worked fine last night. This morning they didn't light. Top center one seems dead. The same thing happened previously when I had them taped to my desktop, but I wasn't using heatsinks then and was experimenting with the amount of current I was giving them. In the cab they only receive 300mA and the heatsinks didn't even get warm. This one was subjected to the soldering iron a couple more times because it was wired backwards to begin with. Not sure what this means, but let me know if you have any of these LEDs fail Randy. |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: BadMouth on November 10, 2022, 08:27:31 am ---LEDs worked fine last night. This morning they didn't light. Top center one seems dead. The same thing happened previously when I had them taped to my desktop, but I wasn't using heatsinks then and was experimenting with the amount of current I was giving them. In the cab they only receive 300mA and the heatsinks didn't even get warm. This one was subjected to the soldering iron a couple more times because it was wired backwards to begin with. Not sure what this means, but let me know if you have any of these LEDs fail Randy. --- End quote --- So far, so good on mine. I forgot to turn mine off one time and they were on for 24hrs continuous. It could very well have been the extra soldering. Usually, this type of LED only sees a trip through a tightly temperature-controlled reflow oven, so the iron shouldn't be hotter than necessary, and one should work quickly with it. For anyone who might not be sure how to solder these, I've found the best approach is to use a good flux, and place a liberally-sized blob of solder on both the wire end and the wing of the LED. Then place the wire end onto the wing and heat the wire until the two blobs just melt together and get the iron away from it. There are tools for heatsinking temperature sensitive parts while soldering, but that's probably overkill for these as long as one works quickly. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |