Main > Lightguns
Lichtknarre: Unmodified Wii remote as a sight accurate Lightgun using 2/4 LEDs
RandyT:
I finally went digging and found a sack of 100ma 940nm LEDS I picked up ages ago. Managed to dig up the datasheet for them, but it's the typical Chinese datasheet which gives the MAX without really providing the typical operating current. They show testing data for 20 and 50ma of forward current and make reference to pulsed operation elsewhere, so I have no idea what they are safe to run at. But I have a bag of them, so I guess I'll jack one up and let it go for a few hours to see what happens. Still haven't found the Wii remotes though :)
The calibration instructions are interesting. I take it to mean that it wants a uniform distance from the screen edge on all sides, and in those linear locations. Is that the way you read it? If so, the language for disregarding the instructions and measuring seems a little overcomplicating.
BadMouth:
--- Quote from: RandyT on October 20, 2022, 01:15:17 pm ---I finally went digging and found a sack of 100ma 940nm LEDS I picked up ages ago. Managed to dig up the datasheet for them, but it's the typical Chinese datasheet which gives the MAX without really providing the typical operating current. They show testing data for 20 and 50ma of forward current and make reference to pulsed operation elsewhere, so I have no idea what they are safe to run at. But I have a bag of them, so I guess I'll jack one up and let it go for a few hours to see what happens. Still haven't found the Wii remotes though :)
The calibration instructions are interesting. I take it to mean that it wants a uniform distance from the screen edge on all sides, and in those linear locations. Is that the way you read it? If so, the language for disregarding the instructions and measuring seems a little overcomplicating.
--- End quote ---
I thought the instructions sounded complicated at first, but after a while it sunk in. All it is really saying is the top and bottom LEDs need to be in the middle horizontally (the line between them splitting the screen 50/50) and then the height of the side LEDs (measured from the bottom LED) should be 26% of the distance between the bottom and top LEDs, not necessarily the screen.
RandyT:
--- Quote from: BadMouth on October 20, 2022, 10:18:00 pm ---I thought the instructions sounded complicated at first, but after a while it sunk in. All it is really saying is the top and bottom LEDs need to be in the middle horizontally (the line between them splitting the screen 50/50) and then the height of the side LEDs (measured from the bottom LED) should be 26% of the distance between the bottom and top LEDs, not necessarily the screen.
--- End quote ---
Any progress? I did manage to find a Wii Remote, a nunchuk controller and my trusty old Activision/Cabelas "shotgun". May find a use for that thing yet.
One thing which seems promising, is that on my Win10 machine, I just held the buttons according to the directions and the software linked it right up to my integrated Bluetooth adapter no problem. The buttons seemed responsive, but that's about as far as I got without LEDs set up to test the rest. If the ones you ordered do a good job, I'll probably follow suit.
BadMouth:
I made a wiring harness today for the LEDs and tested how warm they get. They are 3 watt, but I think I can get away with no heatsink if I run them like 1 watt ones. The $7 current limiter is definitely the way to go. Adjustable and no messing with giant resistors getting hot. I am running the LEDs in series at 6.5 volts and 300mA. The package says they are rated for 700mA, but I am only giving them enough to get the job done. Once they are in the cab behind smoked plexi, I may have to turn it up and add heatsinks. I used fairly thick wire, so that is probably helping wick heat away.
The wide angle lens incorporated into the LED is also definitely the way to go. The old LEDs were only visible straight on. These are good from any angle and it's a very small package without the big lens and housing recommended by the author of the software. I will post links when I get back to a PC.
My ancient bluetooth adapter wouldn't stay connected to both guns just like the old glovepie days, so I bought a new Asus one. The first gun connects easy, but the second one takes multiple tries. Once connected they stay connected, but the process has to be repeated every time the software is launched. I might have just not gone far enough yet, but I don't see how this could be incorporated into a front end.
All I have to do is tape the LEDs to the monitor and I'll be ready for testing. Might get to it tonight. If not tonight, tomorrow.
Locke141:
I haven't been on in a while but love this post. There's some YouTube videos up
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