I know what you're thinking... Missile Command- multi-sync, multi-panel

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bobbyb13:
Thanks all!
Building continues to be fun.
I can do a lot of damage on a partially free Sunday it appears.

--- Quote from: yotsuya on July 11, 2022, 03:31:49 pm ---Looking good, I love my Missile Command.

What will you be using using for controls?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

--- End quote ---

You have an original I imagine?
I'm trying to come up with the most reasonable way to play as many of my favorite games using proper controls with as few panels as possible- and have it be tasteful looking still.

I would like to think my game list sensibilities have matured (in the manner all here have said ad nauseum to all noobs) since I arrived.

Already for this I have a twin trackball panel with a few meaningful buttons (and the Alpha Delta Omega trio of course) that I built for my first go at a multi-panel cabinet- and it may work here with a little trimming and fiberglass tune up.

Not a 4" ball, but concessions need to be made in places for various reasons I guess (like- parts unobtanium) and being able to play Centipede, two player Marble Madness, Kick and the like on one machine is fun.

I also have a proper Star Wars yoke panel that needs to be altered to work, a twin joystick/button panel, and a triggerstick/spinner panel idea in process.

Idea is be able to swap these panels to a vector machine I hopefully get to build since there is so much control overlap that makes sense.

If I had the room and the $$ I would be a real menace.

It's things like Wacko and Toobin that really make for messy plans but I really liked those and some other weirdo control games so I will gradually sort it out.

Keeping harness pinouts well mapped and compatible is the biggest challenge really.

I have a U-HID that worked really well for this mayhem before so I will use it here also.

Biggest question mark still is wiring/connector type.
Molex?
Cat 5?
DB-25

I don't plan on swapping panels more frequently than once a month even maybe but still not sure what is the best choice.

Advice is welcome!

Xiaou2:
Looks wide enough for two of those 4.5" trackballs.

Could be good for games like Marble Madness, and Atari XO Football (that games gives you a real workout).

Edit: Noticed your reply, inside of the Quote box.

I will say, that KICK is actually a spinner game. It was a specially modified trackball, that only moves in a single
axis. The problem with trying to play it with an actual trackball... is that when you roll the ball side to side.. you often
end up moving the ball up and down a bit. This throws off your timing and distances, because its not moving the
character at the expected rate, due to the vertical variances.

Zebidee:
My thoughts are... I think the reality of swappable control panels is that you won't end up swapping them much.

However, if we ignore that and you still want some modularity in your designs, have you considered using metal control panels?

You could go for metal+hinged, like on my Aussie lowboy build thread. Swappable if needed. That one has six carriage bolts, easy to remove or install, though it can be a bit finicky to get it lined up right. Might take me 3 minutes to remove, 10-12 minutes to install. Once installed, just two adjustable lockdown clamps to secure tightly. Flips out so servicing controls, replacing/cleaning glass, is really easy. I like the slightly angled top & curved front edge (ergonomics, etc.), good for trackballs, yokes, joysticks, whatever. Adapt how you want. Would suit style of most of your cabs (not SS Marshmallow :D ).

Obviously I like the metal+hinged CP, is why I bothered fussing with it (and raving on here). And in my case I already have blanks cut, so making a new one will be easy.

Yeah, I know what you are thinking. Next cab, maybe ;)

Which, knowing Bobby, means I only have to wait a couple of days.

bobbyb13:
Yeah the swappy thing is more such that I can have panels that work on a few different cabinets and not have to buy multiples of some of the more expensive controls.

That and I'm staunchly against the Aircraft carrier/Fraken-panel too, AND it gives me an excuse to play around with resin to build some one-off funky panels.

If I can say "well, I think this month that the raster cabinet will have the dual trackball panel and the vector can have the Star Wars yoke..." and just undo a few panel clamps and connectors and make it happen I will be totally satisfied.
I was getting away with it for 3 different panels with my first attempt so I think this will be even easier, even though I am shooting for maybe seven panels total to swap across three machines.

Q*bert is the same interior dimensions, so it too can share in the mayhem.

I suppose maybe when I am finished with panel building and the game list reveals itself that it will make more sense and sound more like worth the effort involved.

Here is the panel that I made to play Missile Command, Centipede, Marble Madness (2 player even) Crystal Castles, golf games, etc.

This was for the Star Wars cabinet mind you so it has a rather spacey feel of course.
I was experimenting with polyester resin and pigments to see what kind of effects I could get without a lot of drama.

There is bunch of depth added to it by laying down the colors in different layers and putting clear coats in between.
I didn't sand it super flat so the finish has a little wobble to it on purpose just to keep the light moving around on the gloss coat too.

It is also 28" wide and I can trim the angled part off with the table saw and then round over the front edge and blend in new resin to coat the wood I exposed.
Plus it means I can be up and playing a few games pretty quickly!

The other panels I made will probably get a full reworking (or be abandoned) but we'll see as I go along.
The panel planning and building is one of the most fun parts of this for me (and not difficult at this pint) so this concept means I can just keep building panels until I am happy with the result.

Biggest thing to sort out soon is just how I will go about the wiring connectors.
Still haven't chosen between the D sub 25s and molex bits I was using before or trying the Cat5 thing that many have liked here.

Input there from anyone with experience would be greatly appreciated!

Stole some day-time to get spraying to allow for some dry time.
Looks better already even with just white.

I need to go for a materials run halfway across the island so maybe it will be dry enough to mask and spray the black interior stuff this evening.
>:D

Zebidee:
Yeah, your work with the resins is awesome, stick to that :D

Are those volcano buttons? The Earth trackball on that backdrop is stunning.

In terms of connectors, whatever works for you. I've used molex before for control panels. In some ways molex plugs are easier to work with, so long as you like crimping, but the pins are large and if we are talking about a huge 3x4 block or bigger it can be hard to plug in/unplug.

Thinking aloud... each basic player control set may need up to twelve or more different connections (4 cardinal directions, 6 buttons, start, GND). You want these things to be consistent across various different panels.

Therefore, I suggest that DB25 would probably be easier in the long run, room to work with, and you may be able to use one DB25 for both P1 and P2 controls. You can use the flexible CAT5 LAN cabling for wiring. CAT6 cable is harder to work with, likely solid core wire too which is less flexible.

After wiring CAT6 my basic home internet/LAN/NAS network, saving $$ by making all new cables & wall sockets for routers, switches etc., my finger tips were so worn that my iPhone wouldn't recognise my fingerprint anymore! I swear they ached for a month.

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