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| I know what you're thinking... Missile Command- multi-sync, multi-panel |
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| bobbyb13:
Thanks Andrew. Resin work is tricky but fun for me finally after 25 years of learning. Still have a way to go for color work actually so control panels are going to be an excellent exercise. And those are legit volcano buttons! I agonized about finding some explicitly for Missile Command. Crappy used ones were really expensive and before I was done the arcadeshop guys had a repro made that while still not cheap, they are new- and still less $$ than the crappy used ones everywhere! When I saw the earth-style ball I couldn't resist, especially to have an earth and moon setup for the two trackballs on one panel. I built an excel spreadsheet to keep track of my wiring on my first attempt. That approach worked, so I need to revisit that sheet. My first time I was just making sure I had things in agreement for pinouts but this time I am going to do a by-the-circuit layout for each panel before I even wire one of them. More like how I approach wiring a new home. Should save some time and headache when I am actually running the wire. I think I'll stick with the DB 25 route for now with a slight change to how I implement it. |
| EvilNuff:
--- Quote from: bobbyb13 on July 13, 2022, 06:03:10 pm ---... Biggest thing to sort out soon is just how I will go about the wiring connectors. Still haven't chosen between the D sub 25s and molex bits I was using before or trying the Cat5 thing that many have liked here. Input there from anyone with experience would be greatly appreciated! ... --- End quote --- Do you have a list of panels (and controls) that you plan on building? At a minimum you should figure out your maximum number of controls so your connectors have a suitable number of connections. I assume you plan on keeping the encoder in the cab as opposed to making each cp "stand alone" with its own encoder? If so then a typical 2 player fight panel 2 joysticks, 6 buttons each would be 20 connections (not counting any lighting) that would be 3 cat5 connections. I would say the 25 pin dsubs are the way to go. I would want to secure one side of the connection so you can make those connections one handed. If you were very precise with your placement having the connections connect when you set the cp into place would be pretty fantastic. What I mean by that is have the mounting of the cp be precise such that it can only fit into the cabinet in one location and the act of inserting/placing/etc the cp into the cabinet connects the dsubs for you. |
| bobbyb13:
--- Quote from: EvilNuff on July 15, 2022, 10:20:58 am --- --- Quote from: bobbyb13 on July 13, 2022, 06:03:10 pm ---... Biggest thing to sort out soon is just how I will go about the wiring connectors. Still haven't chosen between the D sub 25s and molex bits I was using before or trying the Cat5 thing that many have liked here. Input there from anyone with experience would be greatly appreciated! ... --- End quote --- Do you have a list of panels (and controls) that you plan on building? At a minimum you should figure out your maximum number of controls so your connectors have a suitable number of connections. I assume you plan on keeping the encoder in the cab as opposed to making each cp "stand alone" with its own encoder? If so then a typical 2 player fight panel 2 joysticks, 6 buttons each would be 20 connections (not counting any lighting) that would be 3 cat5 connections. I would say the 25 pin dsubs are the way to go. I would want to secure one side of the connection so you can make those connections one handed. If you were very precise with your placement having the connections connect when you set the cp into place would be pretty fantastic. What I mean by that is have the mounting of the cp be precise such that it can only fit into the cabinet in one location and the act of inserting/placing/etc the cp into the cabinet connects the dsubs for you. --- End quote --- Thanks for chiming in. I have the general layout for 6 panels but still need to count circuits and that is a great reminder- thank you! Yes, just to keep Windoze from making a mess of controller ordering (and to save on expense) the U-HID stays with the cabinet. I really like the idea of panel installation also mating the connectors. Af first blush I think the panels maybe too limited in space underneath to pull this off, but it is such a cool idea that it needs to be explored. A great engineering exercise at least! :cheers: |
| EvilNuff:
The more I think about it the more I like the blind mate connector idea. Btw I googled a bit during this work call and discovered that is the correct term, blind mate connector. From one website: "Blind mate connectors are those in which the mating between connectors is done via a sliding or snapping action which does not require aligning the two connector interfaces in a particular way. They are constructed with a self-aligning feature that ensures a correct mating position on their own. These connectors are easy to connect and do not require wrenches or other tools." I have not yet looked at feasibility/cost/connection size etc but here are a couple found: https://www.fclane.com/news/industrial-rack-and-panel-connectors-perfect-blind-mating-applications These look like they would be a pretty good fit, similar to a dsub but more suited for the blind connection. (Such an obvious term why did I have to google to figure that out...) https://experience.molex.com/solutions/blind-mate-interface-solutions/ The staggered mating one is interesting. https://connectorsupplier.com/blind-mating-connector-products/ If you do figure out a solution that does something like this I think that would be very elegant indeed. |
| bobbyb13:
Appreciate the leg work on finding all that. I'm going to take a good shot at implementing this idea. The ability to anchor one side solidly and allow the other to float a bit for alignment and mating is awesome and should make this possible |
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