Software Support > GroovyMAME

Advice on monitor settings for Sony KV-HR36M31

<< < (3/5) > >>

vagrant_17:
The fact you know the guy, and the fact both my screens are Sony does not exactly instill confidence within me  :lol

This is from the service manual; though it does not switch to standby mode, it displays a permanently rolling picture across all inputs and the OSD no longer works at all.

buttersoft:
Ok, so if it still 6 blinks, that would be a low B+ voltage. Which is probably a power supply issue. You might try Jomac and see what he says. I don't know him personally, he justp osts a lot on the Aussie Arcade forum - which might be a better place to seek help for this. Someone else in Perth might be able to help.

EDIT: You can also use the remote to view old error codes. Same button combo as entering the service menu, but volume down instead of volume up. All error codes are stored there unless you manually clear them after servicing. (From S.Matthews on FB)

b0nz0beavis:
Bit late, but have some data to add. More as a repository of info, in case anyone else scores on of these god-tier HD CRTs and goes hunting for info.

1080i is clearer than 720, but you may see some interlacing artifacts affecting the image. Sort of aliasing-type effect. Not major, but it's there in places it doesn't show in 720p when displaying the same source (could be issues at the source, I s'pose). Small impact to overall PQ, but it's there. These might be able to be addressed via SM tweaks to the many sharpness related settings, but I'd expect this will negatively affect picture sharpness overall.

More relevant to gaming is input lag. I've measured the lag with the OSSC DIY latency tester, 720p has 14ms and 1080i has 32(ish)ms. So it's a full frame slower. I find 14ms OK for e-sports and shooters, but 32ms is more suited to slower-paced games. So I guess 1080i is probably excellent for RPGs and other slower games. Acutally yeah, No Man's Sky from PC supersampled from 4k to 1080 did look phenomenal on this TV.

As for SM adjustments, these should ideally be made in conjunction with calibration done using a colorimeter or spectro. I have spent probably 20-30 hours (maybe more...) messing around in the SM and calibrating with a colorimeter. Before calibrating, the following should be set in the SM:

Under the LUMA menu:

- BROF, GAMM, GAMS, R/G/BGAM, BLK all should be 0. Anything other than 0 causes a few different issues. It makes it impossible to get a gamma line that is anywhere near to flat, you will only end up with a very too low near black and elevated whites, in most cases. Changing GAMM, GAMS, R/G/BGAM mostly resolves this. Also, BLK set to anything above 0, makes the TV struggle with shadow detail when there is other high IRE content being displayed. EG, if there is a scene with a lot of white and also darker areas, everything between 0-30 IRE will look the same. Shadow detail will be completely crushed. There is no mitigation for this, or there might be but the hours I put into this specific issue might just have missed it. I doubt it, since I've literally changed every single setting in the SM and none showed a benefit, other than BLK set to 0. Ya never know though....

CLTY menu
- MIDE. Each setting (0-63) is a preset, that controls all the settings under the MIDE menu. 42 gives IMO the clearest and sharpest picture (note: will mess with this at some point and see if can improve the look of 2D pixel games)

CCPM menu (this is related to sharpness and related image processing, has some interplay with the sharpness setting in the OSD, two settings I've found to have the most obvious impact on clarity)
- FUP2, I use 2
- SSHP. I use 8. 0 is very fuzzy, higher settings above 9-10 start to noticeable degrade the picture quality, with ringing creeping in.
- YTRP. Changing from 0 to 1 has postive impact on picture.

MCP menu
- ABLT. This is the equivalent to automatic brightness limiter (might be exactly what it is, idk). Set to 0 to turn it off, best to avoid displaying white images for too long, just as a precaution against wearing out the tube to quickly.

MID3 menu
MHPH - acts similarly to HPOS. I need to use it since HPOS doesn't have enough range.

DEF3 menu
HBLK - setting to 0 will reveal more video at the left side of screen. In my case it's probably 3-5% of the total width, so defintely necessary. YMMV

There are maybe a few other ones that I've forgotten about, but these are the main one. Oh, the CLTY has some settings that impact vector modulation, there is an extensive blog from a XBR960 owner about it on AVSForum.

OSSC isn't doesn't appear to be an option with this TV, it looks pretty bad in my case anyway. The DExx_vd-isl add-on for the DE10-nano is better, but still not really usable. Theoretically they should be excellent, but for some reason the results are underwhelming. There's a slight chance the dexx can be made better, but the OSSC cannot since it's 720p mode isn't compatible with the TV. Maybe there is some special sauce in the TV SM options to make it work, but I haven't found it despite a few hours of digging around. The TV does handle 240p and 480i/p throught the OSSC, but they look just OK and are very laggy, I think up around 48ms from memory. I think the problem might be that the TV is excellent at everything *except* for 2D pixel art. Maybe it just requires a set of tweaks to the SM to get pixel art games looking good. As it is, I expected that the 3x line mulitplier from the dexx would look excellent, but the displayed image makes it look like the TV is mishandling it and creating uneven sized columns of pixels. It's pure ugliness. 

Personally, I find this TV to be amazing for modern games. It doesn't have the sharpness of say a PC CRT, but the motion resolution and CRT factor make it an excellent use for modern AAA titles. And the size means you can appreciate the art and stuff, without having your nose up against the screen. The contrast, colours and black levels are excellent also. Sometimes I put a game on and it just blows me away again, how good this TV is. Mine only has 13,000 hours on it, so I'm sure that helps.

Games like Returnal from PS5 look excellent on this TV. As does Cyberpunk 2077 from PC but it does require the use of supersampling from a higher res, in order to make it look good enough to be a viable alternative to a big OLED. I have a C1 65 inch but mostly use the HD CRT for modern gaming. It doesn't have the sharpness of say a PC CRT, but the motion resolution and CRT factor make it an excellent use for modern AAA titles.

My set does have some notable issue are the edges of the display area. I can't really describe them, but they easily noticeable but not distracting since you're mostly looking at the centre of the screen. They can be resolved in SM, but it's subjective as to wheter the trade-offs are worth it. It's possible that a recap or other intervention may resolve/reduce these problem.

Interested to see how OP went with the repairs. I was carrying mine out with the bloke who sold it to me, and we both got sweaty hands and started losing our grip. So close to dropping it, but we managed to get it in the van and I ended up with the entire 90kg on top of my legs while we dried our hands and figure out how to get it off me. A dolly is definitely the way to go.

Hope this helps someone, I've got some footage of this TV showing Returnal at 720p up on YT. It's not even close to depicting the feel of this TV, unless you watch on a CRT, but it does give a somewhat OKish impression. I'm trying to figure out camera settings or post proc stuff in Resolve to get the footage to match how it looks on the TV.

buttersoft:
Cheers for the extra info! I'm going to have to dive in and try these extra settings at some point :)

b0nz0beavis:
No worries mate. I couldn’t ever figure out how to effectively use the convergence controls. Just couldn’t wrap my head around it. I can move the cursor around and get it to the section of screen requiring adjustment, but then it’s like the lights go out and I dunno wth is going on hahaha. Any tips?

Edit: also, curious about the HDFury 2 and it’s image processing. I used the HDFury X3 (I think, whichever the most recent version is) to convert PC video at 1080p to 1080i. The image was noticeably worse than both the VGA>BNC 5 breakout adapter I use, as well as the Portta HDMI2COMP. It also added a variable processing latency of 1-2 frames. I was able to return it so at least the few hundred clams wasn’t wasted. I ended up trialling GPU pass through on Windows, using a 3080 ti for 4K rendering and a 970 to scale to 1080i. Image was immaculate but the dual GPU setup is too much of a heat trap so now I just use 720p.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page