Any idea how to wire those simil-ultrastik flight joystick?

[Solstar]

Just got a 4 player control panel and i bought this joystich here to put it on the panel.

https://www.amazon.it/Bewinner-Direzioni-Grilletto-Superiore-Anteriore/dp/B07P6ZF1QF


problem is there is no instructions whatsoever..the panel i have cames bunbdles with buttons, ipac like boards and wires, but the joystick i bought is an "outsider" so i wouldn't know how to plug it and where

[Gilrock]

It looks like its just got 4 microswitches for the 4 directions so you would wire those to the ipac.  The cable coming out might also be just for the buttons on the handle.  I'd grab a multimeter and do continuity checks and start pressing buttons / joystick directions.  Figure out which contacts are normally open and use those.

[Solstar]

ok thanks, how about if i don't have an ipac but something similar, that has plugs and wires ot be used for other joysticks, like these

https://www.amazon.it/SJ-JX-Controller-Joystick-Raspberry/dp/B07WN89X2M/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=arcade+control+buttons&qid=1619550212&sr=8-1

[Gilrock]

Those are zero delay encoder boards you can wire switch inputs into that entire bottom row of connectors.

[Solstar]

Those are zero delay encoder boards you can wire switch inputs into that entire bottom row of connectors.

for the switch one ok, and for those three loose cables that comes out of the joystick how am i supposed to conenct them to the board, being that the board requires some connectors to be plugged in

[PL1]

Wire the Common (COM) and Normally Open (NO) tabs of the four joystick microswitches to the 2-pin Left, Right, Up, and Down connectors. (lower right in this pic)
- Remember that pushing right on the joystick handle presses the switch on the left.

 

The trigger and thumb button connections are in the three wire cable.
- One wire is for the trigger. (red wire in this example -- verify the wire colors in your stick before hooking it up)
- One wire is for the thumb button. (yellow wire)
- The remaining wire is for the common connection. (green wire)



How do you hook these three wires to your encoder?

I would add a male (0.187"?) Quick Disconnect tab on each of the three wires so you can plug them into your pre-fab ZD encoder wires.



If you look at the back of your encoder, the outer pins should be connected to a common trace like in this example.
- Notice that I called it common, not ground.  Most of these ZD-style encoders are "active high" devices with 5v on the common.  Related thread here.



Connect the trigger (red?) wire to the inner pin on the desired input.
Connect the thumb button (yellow?) wire to the inner pin on the desired input.
Connect the common (green?) wire to either of the outer pins for those inputs.  You may also want to cover the unused QD with some heat shrink or electrical tape to prevent accidental shorting.


Scott

[Gilrock]

Yeah I just used the connectors that plug into that board and snipped off the other ends and then its just a matter of knowing how to attach two wires together which you will need for this hobby.  I like to use heat shrink butt connectors because I use hundreds of them for my christmas light show setup.

[Solstar]

Wire the Common (COM) and Normally Open (NO) tabs of the four joystick microswitches to the 2-pin Left, Right, Up, and Down connectors. (lower right in this pic)
- Remember that pushing right on the joystick handle presses the switch on the left.

 

The trigger and thumb button connections are in the three wire cable.
- One wire is for the trigger. (red wire in this example -- verify the wire colors in your stick before hooking it up)
- One wire is for the thumb button. (yellow wire)
- The remaining wire is for the common connection. (green wire)



How do you hook these three wires to your encoder?

I would add a male (0.187"?) Quick Disconnect tab on each of the three wires so you can plug them into your pre-fab ZD encoder wires.



If you look at the back of your encoder, the outer pins should be connected to a common trace like in this example.
- Notice that I called it common, not ground.  Most of these ZD-style encoders are "active high" devices with 5v on the common.  Related thread here.



Connect the trigger (red?) wire to the inner pin on the desired input.
Connect the thumb button (yellow?) wire to the inner pin on the desired input.
Connect the common (green?) wire to either of the outer pins for those inputs.  You may also want to cover the unused QD with some heat shrink or electrical tape to prevent accidental shorting.


Scott

Thanks for your explanation, for the directional switch is easy, for the buttons i understand now (though i don't know if those faston male connectors with "fit" on those little white plastic plugs on the zd board), but i still have doubts about the ground(common) cable...should it be connected on the "power 5v" connector?

[PL1]

i don't know if those faston male connectors with "fit" on those little white plastic plugs on the zd board

The 2-pin connectors on the board are Male JST connectors.

The white connector on the 2-pin cable wires is a Female JST connector.
- It will only plug into the Male JST if it is facing the right direction. (polarized connector)

The other end of the 2-pin cable wires is a Female Quick Disconnect connector.

This connector will mate with a Male QD that is either 4.8mm (3/16" or 0.187") or 6.35mm (1/4" or 0.250") wide.
- I can't tell which width female QDs your encoder comes with, but a 4.8mm Male QD will work with a 6.35mm Female QD.

i still have doubts about the ground(common) cable...should it be connected on the "power 5v" connector?

On almost every version of this    encoder, ground is not the same as "common" because it is an "active high" device.
- The wide trace around the outer edge is (almost always) a 5v rail, not a ground plane -- confirmed in this thread.
- When you press a button, 5v from the common 5v rail is applied to that encoder input which triggers the output.
- On an "active low" device like an IPac (or almost any other encoder), pressing a button applies ground to the encoder input which triggers the output.

The red and "Power 5v" connectors are for LED power.
- Your buttons and joysticks don't have LEDs, so nothing connects to these 5v power connectors.
- DO NOT confuse, mix-up, or connect 5v and ground.      You'll release the magic smoke that makes the electronics work.   

The three wires from the trigger and thumb button connect to 3 of the 4 Female QDs on the two 2-pin cable wires plugged into whichever inputs you choose on the board.

- The common wire goes to one of the two QDs on the outer pin wires.
-- The pins are connected on the board and they are connected at the switch so you only need to connect to one of the two outer pin wire QDs to make the input work.

- The other wires go to the QDs on the inner pin wires that go to the encoder inputs.


Scott

[Gilrock]

You don't need those QD's at all if you need to disconnect just unplug the JST.  I would just snip the QD's and connect wires together.  No need to add another failure point.

[Solstar]

i don't know if those faston male connectors with "fit" on those little white plastic plugs on the zd board

The 2-pin connectors on the board are Male JST connectors.

The white connector on the 2-pin cable wires is a Female JST connector.
- It will only plug into the Male JST if it is facing the right direction. (polarized connector)

The other end of the 2-pin cable wires is a Female Quick Disconnect connector.

This connector will mate with a Male QD that is either 4.8mm (3/16" or 0.187") or 6.35mm (1/4" or 0.250") wide.
- I can't tell which width female QDs your encoder comes with, but a 4.8mm Male QD will work with a 6.35mm Female QD.

i still have doubts about the ground(common) cable...should it be connected on the "power 5v" connector?

On almost every version of this    encoder, ground is not the same as "common" because it is an "active high" device.
- The wide trace around the outer edge is (almost always) a 5v rail, not a ground plane -- confirmed in this thread.
- When you press a button, 5v from the common 5v rail is applied to that encoder input which triggers the output.
- On an "active low" device like an IPac (or almost any other encoder), pressing a button applies ground to the encoder input which triggers the output.

The red and "Power 5v" connectors are for LED power.
- Your buttons and joysticks don't have LEDs, so nothing connects to these 5v power connectors.
- DO NOT confuse, mix-up, or connect 5v and ground.      You'll release the magic smoke that makes the electronics work.   

The three wires from the trigger and thumb button connect to 3 of the 4 Female QDs on the two 2-pin cable wires plugged into whichever inputs you choose on the board.

- The common wire goes to one of the two QDs on the outer pin wires.
-- The pins are connected on the board and they are connected at the switch so you only need to connect to one of the two outer pin wire QDs to make the input work.

- The other wires go to the QDs on the inner pin wires that go to the encoder inputs.


Scott

ok so to recap (thanks for the picture though

common goes ALONE in one of the qd

fire 1 and 1 goes into separate qd but inside the same female jst right?

[Solstar]

You don't need those QD's at all if you need to disconnect just unplug the JST.  I would just snip the QD's and connect wires together.  No need to add another failure point.

you mean to just connect wires to the female qd?

[Gilrock]

you mean to just connect wires to the female qd?

No...I'm suggesting you cut off the female QD and throw it away, strip the wire and then use your favorite method to connect 2 wires together.  You will need to turn that green wire into a Y so it can attach to 2 of the JST's.  Its fine to connect it with the QD's like PL1 suggested also if you're more comfortable with that but you will still need to deal with connecting the green wire to 2 QD's.

[PL1]

Three wires coming from the stick.  Crimp one Male QD on each wire.

JST connector 1:
Plug the common wire Male QD into the outer pin Female QD. (blue line)
Plug the trigger wire Male QD into the inner pin Female QD. (red line)

JST connector 2:
Plug the thumb button wire Male QD into the inner pin Female QD. (purple line)
The outer pin wire on this connector is not used so you may want to cover the Female QD with some heat shrink or electrical tape to prevent accidental shorting.


Scott

[Gilrock]

Yep since they are common on the board you can skip trying to Y that green wire connection.

[Solstar]

Three wires coming from the stick.  Crimp one Male QD on each wire.

JST connector 1:
Plug the common wire Male QD into the outer pin Female QD. (blue line)
Plug the trigger wire Male QD into the inner pin Female QD. (red line)

JST connector 2:
Plug the thumb button wire Male QD into the inner pin Female QD. (purple line)
The outer pin wire on this connector is not used so you may want to cover the Female QD with some heat shrink or electrical tape to prevent accidental shorting.


Scott

sorry for beign stupid but i still fail to see how the faston will stand "still" in the white ports thingy. by the way i now opened the package and the boards and cables are different as you can see in the picture here, https://imgur.com/a/qKhmfcu

the boards are similar, but the cables are not, especially being that the joysticks all have those white 5 pin cables that connects all directional input in one go rather than cable by cable, which leaves me scratching my ehad even more on how am i supposed to connect that damn flight stick without buying additional cables /stuff

[Gilrock]

I didn't see joystick connectors in your photo but if your joysticks have the 5 pin connector then you plug that into the 5 pin connector on the encoder board that is just above the USB connector.

What are you calling a "faston"?  You would be plugging a JST connector into the "white ports thingy" so it will stand still.  In your photo you would use the thingy with the white JST thingy on one end and the two QD thingy's on the other ends of the red and black cable.  Then crimp a male QD thingy on the end of the wires from the joystick button cables.  PL1's photo showed you how to do it.

[Solstar]

I didn't see joystick connectors in your photo but if your joysticks have the 5 pin connector then you plug that into the 5 pin connector on the encoder board that is just above the USB connector.

What are you calling a "faston"?  You would be plugging a JST connector into the "white ports thingy" so it will stand still.  In your photo you would use the thingy with the white JST thingy on one end and the two QD thingy's on the other ends of the red and black cable.  Then crimp a male QD thingy on the end of the wires from the joystick button cables.  PL1's photo showed you how to do it.

it doesn't have any 5 pin, it has a switch for every direction

[Gilrock]

it doesn't have any 5 pin, it has a switch for every direction

You just told us "especially being that the joysticks all have those white 5 pin cables that connects all directional input in one go".  I'm confused on what you actually have.  Show us a photo of everything you have.

[Solstar]

all the joysticks EXCEPT THE FLIGHT STIK; have 5 pins, here is a pic of the joystick https://imgur.com/a/vhffSjH

[Gilrock]

Ok got it you have both types.  So you will need to wire in each switch on the flightstick to one of those JST inputs.  Use the wiring harness with a JST on one side and then figure out how you want to connect that to the switch.  I'm sure the QD's on the JST cable are too small so you will need to splice in a new wire with larger QD's most likely.  If you don't want to cut the smaller QD off the end then you will need to make a jumper cable that has a small male QD on one end and a larger female QD on the other.  PL1 will probably have a diagram soon.

[Solstar]

Ok got it you have both types.  So you will need to wire in each switch on the flightstick to one of those JST inputs.  Use the wiring harness with a JST on one side and then figure out how you want to connect that to the switch.  I'm sure the QD's on the JST cable are too small so you will need to splice in a new wire with larger QD's most likely.  If you don't want to cut the smaller QD off the end then you will need to make a jumper cable that has a small male QD on one end and a larger female QD on the other.  PL1 will probably have a diagram soon.

ok thanks i will wait then, meanwhile this is everything i got, multiply it 4x times

https://imgur.com/a/Bg9AKc8

[Gilrock]

What's not clear to me is are you just adding that one joystick to the 4 player panel or are you adding 4 flight sticks?  Does all the original control panel wiring stay as is and you just need to add this one flightstick?  You said multiply it by 4x times so that has me thinking you are replacing the 4 joysticks on the original panel with 4 of these flight sticks?  If additional buttons need to fit on these encoders it may make a difference.

[Solstar]

What's not clear to me is are you just adding that one joystick to the 4 player panel or are you adding 4 flight sticks?  Does all the original control panel wiring stay as is and you just need to add this one flightstick?  You said multiply it by 4x times so that has me thinking you are replacing the 4 joysticks on the original panel with 4 of these flight sticks?  If additional buttons need to fit on these encoders it may make a difference.

sorry needs to be more specific:

everything about the 4 player control panel was provided as it is, and i want to leave as it is, i:e 4 "regular " joystick and buttons. ON TOP OF THAT i would like frankenstein 's the flight stick in (only ONE flight stick and 4 regular joystick, like in this picture here https://gameroomsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/GRS-2-4-Player-Control-Panel-graphics.jpg)

[Gilrock]

Best I can offer is to show you an image of where I've wired into a similar encoder.  You can see how I had to splice in wires to reach the switch that was too far away for the stock quick disconnects.

You can see where I've cut the QD's off and replaced them with larger ones that I needed to fit on my switches.

[Solstar]

Best I can offer is to show you an image of where I've wired into a similar encoder.  You can see how I had to splice in wires to reach the switch that was too far away for the stock quick disconnects.

You can see where I've cut the QD's off and replaced them with larger ones that I needed to fit on my switches.

that's very useful thanks for the picture

[Solstar]

sorry for keeping on posting, but i decided to buy this board and cables specifically for the flight stick

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07PSM59R1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

so now i have the directions and buttons sorted out...but still don't know where to put the common/ground...

[Vocalitus]

I have the same joystick (for my Tron Games) and I haven't wired it up yet and I have the same encoder boards as I hear they work with the PS3.

I had no clue how to wire it up so thanks for the thread, as this will come in handy when i get around to wiring the cab up. 

[Solstar]

I have the same joystick (for my Tron Games) and I haven't wired it up yet and I have the same encoder boards as I hear they work with the PS3.

I had no clue how to wire it up so thanks for the thread, as this will come in handy when i get around to wiring the cab up. 

well in my case i still have the issue so don't know how much of any help this is for you

[Solstar]

i did this and only onew button works, the other one (the red cable) won't work.

https://imgur.com/a/6I9hVWE

[PL1]

i did this and only onew button works, the other one (the red cable) won't work.

That indicates that you have the common wire connected to an input pin.

If the top switch sends an output, but the bottom one doesn't, you have it hooked up like this with COM and A swapped.
- When you press the top switch "_/_", it completes the path from Board COM to Board Input A. (Output A sent)
- When you press just the bottom switch, there's no path from Board COM to Board Input B (no output sent) because the top switch is open.

(Board common pins)   (Wires and switches)     (Board input pins)
              Board COM    A ___/_______ COM    Input A
                         |                     |
              Board COM                 |___/____ B    Input B

If both buttons send Output A, you've got the A and B wires connected to COM on the board, the COM wire is connected to Input A on the board, and nothing is connected to Input B on the board.

(Board common pins)   (Wires and switches)     (Board input pins)
              Board COM    A ___/_______ COM    Input A
                         |                          |
              Board COM     B ___/___|                  Input B

It should be connected like this.

(Board common pins)   (Wires and switches)     (Board input pins)
              Board COM    COM ______/____ A    Input A
                        |                      |
              Board COM                 |___/____ B    Input B

- When you press the top switch, it completes the path from Board COM to Board Input A. (Output A sent)
- When you press the bottom switch, it completes the path from Board COM to Board Input B. (Output B sent)
- The A and B wires go to one side of the JST connector, like the red and purple lines in this diagram.
- The COM wire goes to the other side of the JST connector, like the blue line in this diagram.




Scott

[leapinlew]

I used one on my Gorf build:


Wired it to a Zero Delay Encoder board and connected it to a Pi. Works great for Gorf.

[Solstar]

i did this and only onew button works, the other one (the red cable) won't work.

That indicates that you have the common wire connected to an input pin.

If the top switch sends an output, but the bottom one doesn't, you have it hooked up like this with COM and A swapped.
- When you press the top switch "_/_", it completes the path from Board COM to Board Input A. (Output A sent)
- When you press just the bottom switch, there's no path from Board COM to Board Input B (no output sent) because the top switch is open.

(Board common pins)   (Wires and switches)     (Board input pins)
              Board COM    A ___/_______ COM    Input A
                         |                     |
              Board COM                 |___/____ B    Input B

If both buttons send Output A, you've got the A and B wires connected to COM on the board, the COM wire is connected to Input A on the board, and nothing is connected to Input B on the board.

(Board common pins)   (Wires and switches)     (Board input pins)
              Board COM    A ___/_______ COM    Input A
                         |                          |
              Board COM     B ___/___|                  Input B

It should be connected like this.

(Board common pins)   (Wires and switches)     (Board input pins)
              Board COM    COM ______/____ A    Input A
                        |                      |
              Board COM                 |___/____ B    Input B

- When you press the top switch, it completes the path from Board COM to Board Input A. (Output A sent)
- When you press the bottom switch, it completes the path from Board COM to Board Input B. (Output B sent)
- The A and B wires go to one side of the JST connector, like the red and purple lines in this diagram.
- The COM wire goes to the other side of the JST connector, like the blue line in this diagram.




Scott

i solved it like this...by pure luck:

common cable connected to a random button slot, by itself,

both buttons cables connected together and into ONE button slot. and works, don't ask me why or how but it works finally