Hi All,
I've finally gotten around to doing something with my Super Off Road cab. This is a cab that I bought which had been sitting in a shed as a home to rats. Thankfully the cab itself is solid although the rat odour does linger.
The tube was dead, it came with no chassis and rats had died on the boardset causing massive track rot. They hadn't eaten the wiring which was great. Although it might not have been bad if they had eaten the wiring from the switching PSU to the boardset as that was a very dodgy bit of wiring. The metal plate which holds the transformer, DC PSU/Rectifier and fluoro ballast was absolutely covered in rust. I tried to get it off with a wire brush in a power drill but it made almost no difference. I ended up soaking it for around two days in double strength vinegar which did the trick although there is a lot of pitting in the plate.
So I repainted the rusted plate and feet of the transformer. Replaced the dead tube with a Nanao monitor and fixed up the bad wiring. Then tested my two other boardsets which both don't work (Pretty much what i expected). But that wasn't an issue as i planned to make this a multi cab anyway but without hacking any wiring. I want to be able to easily go from mame PC to original boardset.
A friend was god enough to fabricate a new monitor lockdown bar as the old one was missing. just need to paint it.
I had to fix the wiring to make it so it could connect to the Nanao chassis instead of the original chassis so added a six pin molex connector and can now switch between video from the boardset and video from the PC easily.
I've built a PC using GroovyTime and am planning on wiring everything up with a u-hid. I did initially connect it up to the arcade monitor but even though the signal was out of range for the LCD it still did not look like a 15khz signal on the CRT. Obviously this can screw the sync module so I haven't plugged it back in again. As a protection mechanism i am going to route the video through a jpac and through a jamma edge just made for the video signal. This will provide a little additional protection for my chassis. And an old jpac is a lot cheaper than fixing a busted chassis.
The list of games is based on Badmouth's great introductory thread (
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,105961.0.html)
So my next steps are:
Check the remaining wiring for the control panel and pedals to ensure it all looks good and record wiring colours. Rebuild any that need it.
Complete my wiring diagram so I know that I've planned everything properly
make any new harnesses i need
Install a new led light bar in the head and a separate PSU for the 12v to power it (This is more for when it does get the original board plugged in again due to the higher 5.2v setting needed for this board)
Configure the u-hid
Wonder why nothing is working like it should
Realise I plugged things in wrong and fix that
Enjoy my games
And at some point in the distant future get my other boards repaired and hopefully find an original marquee