A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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bperkins01:
Decided to go with the plan

I started by trying to sand off the brown paint that was on top of the side art. It instantly gummed up the pad - sanding wasn't going to work.
Next I tried a paint stripper that I had laying around for 20+ years - you know - the smelly stuff you can't buy anymore.. that worked.. it took a few coats of paint some on ... scrape a layer .. paint more on.. scrape a layer..

The original plywood was a good quality maple - its actually pretty smooth here even though it may not look it. It only took a few minutes to smooth it out with the sander after the stripper work was done. Williams used a primer under the original brown paint too.

The track saw will make parts of this easy - 12" off the bottom..

One thing I strongly recommend - if the original T-molding is there - leave it on as long as possible. It's a great guide to keep you from sanding the corners round or dinging them up. While sanding the sides - once you start digging too far into the T-molding - you can see it.

Joust a foot shorter - is it a cabaret now?

bperkins01:
My machine is still coming apart - but some parts can start going back together..

First up is the power brick:

Not the best looking power supply I've ever seen. Its mounted on MDF - and I'm pretty sure its original. Normally I try to keep everything original as I can, but not this. After washing it up, the utility outlet is fine, not crazy about the fuse holder. Next order to Arcadeshop I may add a new one in.

The nuts and bolts are the typical rusty pile you normally find. I have a Harbor Freight vibratory polisher. I'll toss them in over night and see if they clean up. The line filter likely is fine - but for $11 - I'm replacing it. Power cord was junk. (as expected)

Gave the wires a bath and wire brushed the transformer. I did avoid getting the paper wet as much as possible. Paint is still wet here - but they look great cleaned up. Put the meter on the connections to check ohms - the are all pretty low as they should be. No shorts.

Polisher does a decent job removing rust. These don't cost anything to replace - but they are still original!

Jumping ahead I mounted the transformer and related to a new block of plywood. I used the original MDF as a guide, drilled the holes and located all of the parts in the same places. Painted it white to match. Williams soldered all of their connections. I'm not a fan. I added ring connectors to all of the wires on the EMI and new power cord.

Last part is making a jumper block for the 12 pin Molex that normally would select 120/240v and manage the interlock switches. After powering it on - all the voltages checked at the transformer output.

And because I could - I connected it to the power distribution board and checked the output voltages on this one to. So far - power is all good and clean!

Mike A:
That sure is purdy.

J_K_M_A_N:
Damn it I love watching stuff like this when guys with crazy talent (and that are kinda anal) do work like this. So nice looking. Can't wait for more progress.

J_K_M_A_N

bperkins01:
Thanks guys - next week is the pandemic furlough unpaid vacation I get to spend my time in the shop week.....
My plan is to have the cabinet all back together with new plywood added and all primed up.
We'll see how far I can get!

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