A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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Arroyo:
This will be an interesting one to follow (well all your work is), as there is a lot of restore work here. I’ll be taking notes in the background . That power supply is pretty.

bperkins01:
Working on the coin door panel

I decided to remove the lower 6" of this panel. Simplest way to do it is raise the saw blade just above the thickness of the plywood.

and saw a clean line right across the front.

It knocked off pretty easily with a mallet.. Clean up the bits and pieces, etc..

The old part - this wasn't repairable - if you wanted it to last.

I missed some pictures at the router table - but I cut in the dados on the back of the replacement part to match the original. I used thickened epoxy to glue this in place. It fills gaps and won't come apart. Which pretty much means this is permanent. The important part on this repair is to know that plywood 40 years ago was actually 3/4" thick. Today's plywood is 1/32" thinner.. If you look close - I'm clamping the thinner one from the bottom to push it up so that the face is flush. The part you see is the important part.

From the top - the face is flush with the new part AND its perfectly flat. A quick sand and repaint of the front and it will all be invisible. I still need to cut the rabbets on the sides. One other thing I did is I left it a little long. Once I determine the actual overhang relative to the floor panel, I can cut it to length. Its easier to have it a little bit too big and cut it down than to have it too small and try to add material.

Blanks for the side panels.

Originally I thought Joust was maple plywood - its actually birch. Doesn't matter really - but its good information.

Here is how I'm adding the 12" back to the sides. I've cut a couple biscuit slots for alignment. After putting it all together, I didn't really need them. But they are in there. My bench is large and flat. I put down a few rows of packing tape (clear and shiny just under the plywood edge) to prevent gluing it all to my bench. Because the plywood needs to be perfectly flat - the board with the spacers is clamping it all down tight to the bench.

Add some thickened epoxy, a couple of biscuits and another long clamp to bring them together. This is the same situation as the front where the new wood is 1/32" thinner than the old.. but it will be on the inside and the only part that will matter is near the bottom and it blend with the T-molding.

Everything held in place flat for epoxy to set up.

Pulled the clamps off - the face is perfectly flat and flush. Exactly what I was shooting for. I still need to cut the rabbets, fill some dings on the original black part, finish sand and it will be ready for a final paint job.

This one will be a little trickier because I need to cut dado's on the inside to match the original parts for the bottom and coin panel to fit back into place. I purposely left the front edge over sized. This eliminates any possibility of getting that front edge out of line. I can cut it in place.

If for some reason I messed my cut across the bottom of the original side panel and it wasn't square - I could have left this panel over sized on the front and the back and used the original sides for reference making it nearly impossible to mess up. Its actually easier that way.

Now to do the second side..

Mike A:
Nice write up.

The differences in plywood thickness threw me off the first time I tried to match stuff up. :cheers:

bperkins01:

--- Quote from: Mike A on May 19, 2020, 08:36:54 am ---Nice write up.

The differences in plywood thickness threw me off the first time I tried to match stuff up. :cheers:

--- End quote ---
Thank you kind sir :)

bperkins01:

This is the lower rear panel The edge shown is the part that is next to the floor. Considering how bad the sides and front were - this is in relatively decent shape. The plywood is a little chewed up - but this part has a serial# stamped on it.. So.. I'll preserve it.

Skipping ahead - I used two boards that I covered in packing tape and cut some scrap for end stops. Clamp it up tight and filled the edge with epoxy. If you warm the epoxy with a torch (lightly brush by with the heat) the air bubbles will all pop and create a clear fill.

A little sanding, primer and paint - it will be better than new.

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