Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

<< < (40/60) > >>

vapuser:
The pic below showing the brick with the rectifier restored back to original configuration.

Mike A:
Kudos to you for sticking with it.

bperkins01:

--- Quote from: vapuser on February 28, 2020, 08:57:42 am ---02/28/2020

TGIF, Good morning all, Happy to report that the above Problem 2 and Problem 3 have been resolved. The MR750 diodes have been re-soldered to the original full wave rectifier board. See pic below. I retested all the J5 secondary winding output voltages with a load again and all is still good.

Additionally, I hooked the brick back up in the cabinet and removed the J2 jumpers that were in place to bypass the interlock switch and the bottom switch. I plugged in the J2 connection instead and turned the game on. No fuses blew. Now I feel we’re making progress. I currently have the bottom switch hooked up, but I have the top interlock switch still removed from the circuit.

Moving forward – Tonight, I’ll reconnect that top interlock switch in place and start re-connecting the additional boards. I’ll start with the PCB board. If no fuses blow, I’ll continue to connect the ARII. At that point I’m hoping to see the red power light on the PCB. With the new Transistor and voltage regulator now replaced, I’m anxious to retest the ARII for those missing 5 volt readings. If all goes well, I report back tomorrow with additional more promising news. Have a good weekend!

--- End quote ---

I'd consider hooking up the PCB last - you want all the power right before blowing that up.... I went Power Brick --> ARII --> PCB

jennifer:

--- Quote from: bperkins01 on February 28, 2020, 03:21:18 pm ---
--- Quote from: vapuser on February 28, 2020, 08:57:42 am ---02/28/2020

TGIF, Good morning all, Happy to report that the above Problem 2 and Problem 3 have been resolved. The MR750 diodes have been re-soldered to the original full wave rectifier board. See pic below. I retested all the J5 secondary winding output voltages with a load again and all is still good.

Additionally, I hooked the brick back up in the cabinet and removed the J2 jumpers that were in place to bypass the interlock switch and the bottom switch. I plugged in the J2 connection instead and turned the game on. No fuses blew. Now I feel we’re making progress. I currently have the bottom switch hooked up, but I have the top interlock switch still removed from the circuit.

Moving forward – Tonight, I’ll reconnect that top interlock switch in place and start re-connecting the additional boards. I’ll start with the PCB board. If no fuses blow, I’ll continue to connect the ARII. At that point I’m hoping to see the red power light on the PCB. With the new Transistor and voltage regulator now replaced, I’m anxious to retest the ARII for those missing 5 volt readings. If all goes well, I report back tomorrow with additional more promising news. Have a good weekend!

--- End quote ---

I'd consider hooking up the PCB last - you want all the power right before blowing that up.... I went Power Brick --> ARII --> PCB

--- End quote ---
I know right?...Must have told him a hundred times, But At this point, it's pretty obvious the problem.

vapuser:
IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE! The game is finally showing some signs of life now. I think I still have a ways to go yet. Like I said Friday, I reconnected the interlock switch, and turned the machine on. So far so good, no fuses blown. I reconnected the plugs to the PCB board and turned the machine back on again. Still looking good. I reconnected the ARII, turned the game back on and all the lights came on. The PCB board LED light, the two coin receptor lights, plus the two LED's above the coin receptor. The speaker was even making some noise. For now, I left the monitor unplugged. I noticed that the two LED lights above the coin receptor were blinking, so I inserted two coins. I pushed those LED buttons and it sounded like the game was playing. I was pressing the fire button and rolling the yellow ball. The sound coming out of the speakers was a little fuzzy and staticy, but it sounded like it was working. So now I thought I'd plug in the monitor just to see If it would light up. Nothing. So I disconnected the monitor and checked the voltages on the two plugs. Still no voltage on the six pin plug, and 126 volts on the three pin plug just like before. I left the monitor unplugged and turned the game back on again, but can't get it to sound like it's playing. I hope I didn't cause any damage by plugging in the monitor. Any clue why the 6 pin monitor plug has no voltage? Do you have a schematic of that plug showing pin voltages? I have a feeling that the next step is going to be to remove the monitor from the chassis. As you mentioned previously, that one fried part on the monitor circuit board might be a voltage regulator. Well, one step at a time. What are your thoughts?

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version