Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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vapuser:
Good morning all, TGIF! Now that my 7 amp circuit breakers came in, I'll be looking for that short circuit over the weekend. I'm hoping that those rectifier diodes (MR750) come in today or tomorrow as well. I finally found someone who had them. I ordered them from Digikey who actually located them at Rochester Electronics. Rochester Electronics only had one pack of 25 for 5 dollars left. The killer was the $10 dollar S&H charge I had to pay. As was mentioned in an earlier thread, something must have caused those MR750's to short out. Maybe it's a good thing that I'll have a few extra, just in case. I'd like to put this brick back together and come to a determination if any of the windings on the primary or secondary side of the transformer are actually shorted and causing all my problems. Enjoy the weekend.

bperkins01:
Winding shorts you can test while you wait. *if* its there - it will be between that winding and one of the others. Good luck.

pbj:
Throw that piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- multimeter away and get something that actually works.

:cheers:

vapuser:
Good morning all. I'd like to give an update as to where we are currently with this restoration. Originally and currently the game has no life other than the red lights at the two coin slots. We have many good voltages but seem to be missing some 5 volt readings. So to correct that issue, as was suggested, I replaced the 2N3055 (Q3) Transistor and also the LM305 5-volt Linear Voltage Regulator (Q1) on the ARII. I’m anxious to re-test those voltages and continue to move forward.

Problem 2 – As mentioned early on, before joining the forum, I replaced the Big Blue Cap as well as the rectifier circuit. Not having the correct schematic, I replace the full wave rectifier with a half wave rectifier. Now that I have the correct schematic for this cocktail centipede game, I removed the have wave rectifier and ordered two MR750 diodes to replace the shorted out diodes on the original full wave rectifier circuit board.

Problem 3 - Additional Short Circuit problem – F2 and F3 (7 Amp) fuses blow every time I plugged in the J2 connector to the Power Supply. This could have been the result of having the wrong type rectifier in circuit. Those MR750 diodes should come in today. Tonight, I’m hoping to re-solder those diodes and install the original full wave rectifier circuit board. I’ll give another update tomorrow.

Last night, since the 7-amp circuit breakers arrived, I connected those to the F2 and F3 fuse connector block. With the J2 jumpers in place (bypassing the interlock switch and the bottom switch) and the rectifier circuit still disassembled, I plugged the unit in. No fusses blew. Since the rectifier circuit was disassembled, I thought I would take a reading off that top secondary winding. So putting my leads across the two orange wires, I got a voltage reading of 19.3 VAC. I was always curious as to what that voltage off the secondary prior to the rectifier circuit would read. Hoping to see 10.5 DC after the upgrade. Hopefully I’ll be able to give a more informative update tomorrow.

vapuser:
02/28/2020

TGIF, Good morning all, Happy to report that the above Problem 2 and Problem 3 have been resolved. The MR750 diodes have been re-soldered to the original full wave rectifier board. See pic below. I retested all the J5 secondary winding output voltages with a load again and all is still good.

Additionally, I hooked the brick back up in the cabinet and removed the J2 jumpers that were in place to bypass the interlock switch and the bottom switch. I plugged in the J2 connection instead and turned the game on. No fuses blew. Now I feel we’re making progress. I currently have the bottom switch hooked up, but I have the top interlock switch still removed from the circuit.

Moving forward – Tonight, I’ll reconnect that top interlock switch in place and start re-connecting the additional boards. I’ll start with the PCB board. If no fuses blow, I’ll continue to connect the ARII. At that point I’m hoping to see the red power light on the PCB. With the new Transistor and voltage regulator now replaced, I’m anxious to retest the ARII for those missing 5 volt readings. If all goes well, I report back tomorrow with additional more promising news. Have a good weekend!

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