Arcadosaurus Rex - My first build

[fsflaquer]

Hello fellow arcadians!!

I am starting my first arcade build. I have been dreaming of building my cabinet for a long time, but I didn’t have the time or the space to start...

Time has come, and the perfect excuse: an old Sony Trinitron CRT was replaced by a modern screen projector home theater and was begging for an use...

The problem? Well, where to start? First, I had none zero working skills, my power tool collection started and ended with a cordless drill/screwdriver. Second, the tv is a 36” monster, with a intimidating 200 pounds of problems to solve...

Checkpoints:

1- Wife’s approval - check
2- planning, tools and materials - ongoing
3- Cabinet design - check
4- building the cabinet - ongoing
5- control panel -
6- finishing and painting -
7- graphics -
8- hardware -
9- software -
10- smashing buttons -

[Mike A]

Oh ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. That is a big monitor to put in a cab. Can we see what you have figured out so far? Is it too late to consider a smaller CRT. They are all over Craigslist in my area. That monster TV would be great for a classic console setup. Throw a couch in front of it and plug in a NES.

[fsflaquer]

Well, first for the tools...

As I said before, I have zero woodworking skills, and the tools requirement from the forum users can be intimidating...

So I bought an all-in-one tool, the black and decker matrix set  (insert woodworker cringe here). It has a router, trim saw, jigsaw, sander, drill and impact driver in a cordless base...

Bought some router bits, wood screws, clamps and some other stuff I thought was relevant, but constant internet shopping and hardware store visiting is a thing now...

[fsflaquer]

Oh ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. That is a big monitor to put in a cab. Can we see what you have figured out so far? Is it too late to consider a smaller CRT. They are all over Craigslist in my area. That monster TV would be great for a classic console setup. Throw a couch in front of it and plug in a NES.

I know... 

But this TV has been in the family for a long time, and making it an arcade is somewhat the point of the project...

I have studied some furniture from the 90s, so I know I will have to reinforce the structure to hold it...

I don’t have the original sketches, but I will post some pictures as I go...
Basically I will reinforce the TV base with some horizontal 2x4, and also some metal shelving brackets...

My choice for the wood was MDF, but as I studied more woodworking techniques I am not sure that was the best choice...

Will do some weight test before installing the TV, so I can get back to the drawing board if I feel that the structure is not strong enough...

[fsflaquer]

Starting the project...

This are the sides. Used a copy router bit to align the shape of both sides.

Used the router to do the t molding slots.

[fsflaquer]

Then I realized I needed to go to the next level in the woodworking business... bought some sawhorses and a table saw... Spousal approval went down a notch... 

[Mike A]

2x4s can hold a lot of weight when used correctly.
I know a lot of people like MDF. I don't.
It's freaking heavy and the sawdust is toxic.
Do you have a respirator or at least a dust mask?

[pbj]

the sawdust is toxic.
Do you have a respirator or at least a dust mask?

Lead schmead.  In 100 years, we'll all be dead.

[fsflaquer]

2x4s can hold a lot of weight when used correctly.
I know a lot of people like MDF. I don't.
It's freaking heavy and the sawdust is toxic.
Do you have a respirator or at least a dust mask?

Yes, mask, glasses, blade guard and everything...

[fsflaquer]

the sawdust is toxic.
Do you have a respirator or at least a dust mask?

Lead schmead.  In 100 years, we'll all be dead.

Speak for yourself! I’m waiting for the singularity and living forever emulated by MAME!! 

[Mike A]

Do you have any drawings showing what this is going to look like? I am interested to see what you are going to do with the control panel.

[fsflaquer]

Angled joysticks for 3rd and 4th players, of course! Just kidding... 

I’m doing it based on a design I found somewhere here on the forum. But with six buttons for players 1 and 2. Not sure if following this or going full rectangular...

But what is going to bake your noodles is how I am going to fix the control panel to the cabinet. I don’t know if you saw in the pictures of the sides (it uploaded with wrong proportions) but I had to cut the front CP support normally seen in regular cabinets. It is, side to side, almost 38”, and that’s non negotiable because of the TV. So I had to cut that notch to be able to move it around or it will be buried where it is mounted.

Don’t have any drawings, it’s all in my head for now... but it involves a French cleat and some metal fasteners.

I will draw the concept to show it...

[Laythe]

Speak for yourself! I’m waiting for the singularity and living forever emulated by MAME!! 

Me too, but I half expect that when you go to fire me up it's just going to crash out with a NOT FOUND - NO GOOD DUMP KNOWN.


Curious to see how this comes together!

[fsflaquer]

Done some more woodworking today! Finished almost all cutting, except for the control panel, which I will tinker some more with the joystick/buttons layout...

I will try to mount it tomorrow, a little bit anxious because my next available window to work will be in another month...

The last picture is the base of the tv, reinforced with 4 crossbeams to hold its weight. The base will have a 15° inclination, so there will be a back reinforcement as well...

[Rangerkip]

Looks good so far keep it up

[Mike A]

I think we need to see a drawing of what you are planning. Maybe we can help you.

Are those 2x6s?

[MiteWiseacre]

Oh man this is going to be a beast!
I started out planning to use my 32” but later went down to a 27” Sony, which is pretty huge as an arcade. One suggestion I can make is build your 2x4 frame off of the mdf, this will keep everything square, I built a frame first then attached sides etc. But my lumber had some twists and warps that resulted in it being like a 1/4” out, was infuriating to straighten in final assembly. Honestly all done, the frame is overkill but I’m confident it won’t break if moved.

[Mike A]

When you buy lumber from a big box store it can be pretty wet. If you use it right away the twists could worse or better over time as it dries out. And it could twist in new places.
If you want precision from 2x4s you need to let them dry out and then run them through the jointer to get 1 side straight and get rid of cupping and twisting on the faces. Once the faces are flat and one edge is straight place that edge against your table saw fence and run the board to make the other side straight and then pass it through a planer to get a consistent thickness. Then all of your 2x4s will have identical dimensions.
If you have a router table with a good fence you can use that in place of a jointer.
That is a lot of work, but the result is predictable lumber. Otherwise you have to jam it all in place with screws and glue and hope something else doesn't pop out of place.

There are a bunch of YouTube videos that describe how to mill your lumber to precise dimensions. You can do it without fancy tools it is just more time consuming.

[fsflaquer]

When you buy lumber from a big box store it can be pretty wet. If you use it right away the twists could worse or better over time as it dries out. And it could twist in new places.
If you want precision from 2x4s you need to let them dry out and then run them through the jointer to get 1 side straight and get rid of cupping and twisting on the faces. Once the faces are flat and one edge is straight place that edge against your table saw fence and run the board to make the other side straight and then pass it through a planer to get a consistent thickness. Then all of your 2x4s will have identical dimensions.
If you have a router table with a good fence you can use that in place of a jointer.
That is a lot of work, but the result is predictable lumber. Otherwise you have to jam it all in place with screws and glue and hope something else doesn't pop out of place.

There are a bunch of YouTube videos that describe how to mill your lumber to precise dimensions. You can do it without fancy tools it is just more time consuming.

Hi Mike!

Thanks for the tips!

I’ll buy 2x4 that are kiln dried, that will help... gonna try to find hardwood, but most of the stores have only pine...

I have reached my limit for woodworking tools in my marriage for this project, so a jointer, table router or any other milling tools would not be possible... 

I made a (very) rudimentar drawing of the cabinet design to illustrate the sides and tv stand... probably that will hold... glad to hear any thoughts or input!

[Mike A]

You don't need a of those tools. It just makes it easier. YouTube is full of videos explaining how to do it with simpler tools.
Also. Kiln dried wood is not necessarily dry by the time you get your hands on it. You can look that up as well.
Your bracing is super overkill. It will also add a ton of weight to your cab. DIY aquarium stands are a good place to look at how to support a bunch of weight.

[Mike A]

I built this for my 150 gallon aquarium. When filled the aquarium weighs well over 1000 pounds. This stand is overbuilt. I could park a truck on it.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[fsflaquer]

You don't need a of those tools. It just makes it easier. YouTube is full of videos explaining how to do it with simpler tools.
Also. Kiln dried wood is not necessarily dry by the time you get your hands on it. You can look that up as well.
Your bracing is super overkill. It will also add a ton of weight to your cab. DIY aquarium stands are a good place to look at how to support a bunch of weight.

Glad to hear you say it’s overkill! My fear was the other way around! Maybe I will review the number of 2x4s...

Excellent tip on aquarium build! Binge watching on YouTube on next week... 

Will look for wetness of wood also, thanks again!

[Mike A]

The key is that if you are going to use 2x 4s they need to be supporting the weight from the ground up. Otherwise they are no being used properly.

[Mike A]

You have the right idea with th vertical boards that go all the way to the base. Although you could get rid of the middle one. All of those cross braces are unnecessary. Set a 2x4 horizontally on top of the vertical braces on each side.throw a 3/4 inch plywood shelf on top of that. That will be overkill, but it will be much lighter.

[opt2not]

I see all these builds with framing and I think, why?  Original cabinets didn't have all that. The top, bottom and monitor shelf panels was enough to keep the structure of the cabinet solid, and those were CRT cabinets.

Adding all the framing is redundant IMO, and it's just adding unnecessary weight to your cabinet.  The average CRT-based arcade cabinet should weigh between 300 to 400 lbs.  That's with up to a 25" CRT.   Obviously if you're going LCD the overall weight is greatly reduced.

But if you're pushing more than 400 lbs, then it's overdone and going to turnout to be a ---smurfette--- to move around.

[Arroyo]

I see all these builds with framing and I think, why?  Original cabinets didn't have all that.

Also didn't have 36" CRT's .  I'm guessing the TV itself weighs damn near 200lbs? 

fsflaquer - Thanks for posting your build.  I saw your comments on the "Not Much Going on" thread, and am glad you choose to share.  Looking forward to seeing how your design comes out.  Initially reminded me of Ryglor's - "The Schmup! Arcade", but you've got something different going on here.  I'll be watching.

[opt2not]

I see all these builds with framing and I think, why?  Original cabinets didn't have all that.

Also didn't have 36" CRT's .  I'm guessing the TV itself weighs damn near 200lbs? 

fsflaquer - Thanks for posting your build.  I saw your comments on the "Not Much Going on" thread, and am glad you choose to share.  Looking forward to seeing how your design comes out.  Initially reminded me of Ryglor's - "The Schmup! Arcade", but you've got something different going on here.  I'll be watching.

Look up a Sega Megalo.
It's 800 lbs., has a 50" projection tube, and is only made up of fiberglass and thin metal sheeting.   It's also on a rectangular base, rather than a more square one, and yet they're still stable.

Besides, anything over 29" at the distance you're standing away from it is going to be very difficult to play on.

IMO either find a smaller CRT, or make your Control Panel twice as deep so that people can stand slightly further away from the screen.

[fsflaquer]

You have the right idea with th vertical boards that go all the way to the base. Although you could get rid of the middle one. All of those cross braces are unnecessary. Set a 2x4 horizontally on top of the vertical braces on each side.throw a 3/4 inch plywood shelf on top of that. That will be overkill, but it will be much lighter.

That’s what I thought... I’m getting rid of the middle 2x4... the braces are already glued and screwed, so I might keep it like that...

Arroyo - yes, the TV is 198lbs, to be exact...
And I already feel rewarded for posting my project. Great input prom Mike for my woodworking, and some attaboys that kept me motivated!

Opt2not - the TV was kind of the point of this build... lots of feelings, had it in the family since 1995... played a lot of SNES and PlayStation on it,  watched my first DVD ever on it... And for the size, always been a fan of large screens, and always sat too close when playing videogames... but you’re right, and one of the reasons I did not close on my control panel design is that I want to see what it feels like not only for the 4 player layout, but for the distance too...

Anyway, will work on it again in the end of August, so will have plenty of time to think and learn...

[Arroyo]

Damn that thing is insane.  12 year old me would have killed for that. 

I agree on the distance from screen/size of screen ratio.  I got the impression this wasn’t negotiable for fsflaquer.  I have a 27” and even that can be a bit big when sitting too close.  One thing that I’ve learned is that a lot of games don’t look as good when they get blown up to bigger sizes.  And some games it’s harder to play if you can’t see the entire screen in your immediate field of vision.  To each his own though.  Looking forward to your progress fsflaquer.

[pbj]

Don’t listen to those clowns.  Bigger is always better.

[Arroyo]

Especially when it comes to control panels!

[pbj]

That control panel was ahead of its time.  Paired with a 55” flatscreen it’s good to go.

[Arroyo]

And 4 player Street Fighter, how’d he know?

[opt2not]

Don’t listen to those clowns.  Bigger is always better.

Careful now, your Texas is showing.

[uptown47]

Don’t listen to those clowns.  Bigger is always better.

Careful now, your Texas is showing.

Just gave me my first chuckle of the day Opt2not - thanks :-)

[Ond]

Don’t listen to those clowns.  Bigger is always better.

say's the dude with clown avatar...heh. 

I think the big CRT is fine if you're not nose to glass with it. Like Arroyo, I too have a 27" CRT in one of my projects and I LOVE that thing.  Anyway, I was thinking about this project today while I was wandering around a local hardware store.  I've just finished moving house and had to have our upright piano moved by specialists.  Our piano is ---goshdarn--- heavy.  I watched these dudes waltz in with a dolly with large pneumatic wheels on it.  They slipped it under the piano and moved that thing around like it weighed 50 pounds.  Over steps, into a sunken lounge, no problemo. My point is, big and heavy is fine, but think about strong wheels/ casters or even a separate dolly that fits into the base of the cabinet when you need to move it.  Google "Piano dolly" to see various examples.  Many of them can handle 900lbs or more.

[fsflaquer]

Hello again, fellow arcadians!!

I’m not dead yet!!!

As I’ve mentioned before, I only got to work on the cabinet this weekend, and for a short time (wife got the flu and my two year old son is trying to burn the house down...). But I have good news!!

“RISE FROM YOUR GRAVE!!”

It’s standing!!!

Now that it is up, I can have a better understanding of its dimensions... standing in playing position gave me 6 player X-men feelings... It’s 12” narrower, but still...

And installed 4 casters that can withstand 160lbs each, só I think they will hold... without the tv, it’s pretty easy to move the cabinet around, and they have brakes if needed...

Meanwhile, stopped by Ultimarc website, and left a kidney there... but it was totally worth it. I had bought Chinese generic buttons and controls, and the Ultimarc stuff feels waaaay better! My thanks to Andy, great help and always polite!

Got 4 u360, and the RGB buttons 🤦🏻‍♂️... I was having a bit of internal conflict with the led buttons, as I don’t particularly like the bling, but then I saw that they light up customized to each game button scheme, and I figured my multiplayer guests would benefit and stop asking “what is this 6th button for?”... And if I don’t like them, I can always get back to the Chinese generic and get my kidney refunded!

Also, presented my ideas for the artwork to my wife, and she was... not impressed. The good news is she is going to make them for me, so I will have someone with artsy skills to improve the project, the bad news is my self esteem in my art skills is at a record low...

Next, the joy of sanding and priming, and sanding, and priming... Unfortunately, it will be only be possible by the end of September...

[uptown47]

Coming together great! And your write up gave me a chuckle :-)

Good work, look forward to seeing more pics

[pbj]

I figured my multiplayer guests would benefit and stop asking “what is this 6th button for?”... And if I don’t like them, I can always get back to the Chinese generic and get my kidney refunded!

The solution to that is to remap each game so that you don't have dead buttons on your control panel.

Guests still won't discover you can jump in a game until level 4 when you ask why keep running off a ledge.  "I didn't want to press any of the other buttons because I wasn't sure what they did."

Your wife, the neuroscientist, after 20 years of marriage and game room in her life, will still hit the giant lit EXIT button at the back of the control panel because she "wasn't sure which one made me continue" when you're 80% through Cadillacs and Dinosaurs.

Maybe I'm just projecting here.



 

[fsflaquer]

I figured my multiplayer guests would benefit and stop asking “what is this 6th button for?”... And if I don’t like them, I can always get back to the Chinese generic and get my kidney refunded!

Your wife, the neuroscientist, after 20 years of marriage and game room in her life, will still hit the giant lit EXIT button at the back of the control panel because she "wasn't sure which one made me continue" when you're 80% through Cadillacs and Dinosaurs

So true.

Maybe I must upgrade my exit button...