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| Nintendo cabinet build - Wreck-It Ralph |
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| UnclearHermit:
I was just wondering about how the depth of the laminate was accommodated on the inside! Routing of that section makes sense but would certainly have been tedious and time consuming. It's surprising that was ever cheaper/faster than just laminating the whole panel, so not surprising that the US approach changed. I know I'm only doing a repro here, and using MDF it's hardly authentic, but it's nice to understand the original cabinet detailing to try and get something that at least feels right. Those photos are interesting (aside from being upside down and messing with my head), especially because they also show another detail that's rarely captured in photos. That small piece of wood that goes between the speaker panel and the front door panel is show on the Gaetan(/your :)) plans as sitting 5mm higher than the bottom of the speaker panel. But in your photo of the Japanese cabinet it appears to be flush, and with an unfinished end to the ply meeting coloured wood, compared with the US one which also seems flush but with black wood. So a colour detailing difference, but also neither of those cabinets matching the one you'd used for the Gaetan measurements, which I think is shown here: I've spent so much time trying to understand areas like this, but every time I think I've got a handle on something I find that there are multiple variants anyway! |
| UnclearHermit:
--- Quote from: ChanceKJ on July 07, 2019, 05:16:36 pm --- While we’re on the topic of finish: The wood cross beam that locks in both the control panel top edge and the lower bezel bracket is actually always covered wood. Its a thin laminate in the Wood cabs, and a thicker black laminate in the US particle cabs. --- End quote --- Adding that to the list of things I didn't know. Again, I don't remember ever reading that. I assumed it was just painted. Thanks for the bolt info as well. That makes so much more sense now. I couldn't understand why there were so many holes when the bracket didn't seem to require it in any photos I'd seen. |
| ChanceKJ:
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| UnclearHermit:
Thanks, I’ve been through all of those albums many times already to get me to this point :D |
| UnclearHermit:
Spraying commences... As I said, this is new to me. The first things I found out are that the spray area is really small. The second is that you can't point a can at any kind of decent angle towards a horizontal surface without it starting to splatter dots. Luckily this wasn't a problem I couldn't deal with at this stage and a light sand got things back on track. Having the panel vertical would probably make the spraying work better, especially because I see a lot of spray going outwards across the board and not doing much, but presumably puts me at more risk of runs. After a few coats things are looking a lot better (yes, that's the other side panel, but they're both coming along okay). Still a bit patchy with the primer underneath, and I also notice a bit of striping. I do have to tell myself that this is the inside of a cabinet, but I'm also learning for if I decide to do the outside sprayed. I'm also finding out that spraying is rather expensive. I could have rolled on some matt black for a fraction of the cost, or even perhaps rolled on for a base coat and then finished in spray. I've got some satin black for the front inches of the cabinet so I only really need to get the rear sections looking a bit better in the matt. The edges soaked up a fair bit of paint, which isn't surprising for MDF but I'd hoped the MDF primer would do a better job there. For any other edges I'll probably start with a glue coat. I could put on more coats of the primer on the edges, but that just creates more work keeping the faces clean of any excess paint. I'm still quite nervous about removing that tape and seeing if the blocking will be easy to locate still, and if I've left gaping gaps of wood between the blocking and the black areas. |
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