Ken Layton, is this good for a Cap Kit?

[SirPeale]

My monitor has an odd problem.  the image is centered fine, and is partially clear, except for this milky area.  I've attached a diagram describing where on the tube the 'milky' area is.  I'll attempt to photo it later.

Also: the image isn't wide enough.  Is that what the horizontal width coil is for?  It doesn't look particularly adjustable.

[SirPeale]

Here's a couple

[Ken Layton]

What make/model is the monitor? Has it had a capkit recently?

For width problems check out:

www.dameon.net/BBBB/wc.html

www.dameon.net/BBBB/width.html

[SirPeale]

I honestly have no idea, it's not marked in any way I can see.  But...I've got TWO of them.  One horizontal (the one with the problem) and a vertical one (no problems)

Here's some pictures.

[SirPeale]

The other side

[SirPeale]

Here's the vertical one for kicks.

[Ken Layton]

It's not one I've seen before. It could be a Toei. Check the pictures on www.dameon.net/BBBB/ and click on "What's My Monitor?"

[SirPeale]

I couldn't find it, so I emailed Bob.  Here's hoping he has an answer.  Especially since I have TWO of the things.

I know it needs a cap kit, just was hoping to get away without one for a bit.

[SirPeale]

Bad news.  I emailed Bob Roberts.  His reply to what monitor I have?

Don't have a clue :-(

Man, that sucks!  Ah well, I know the basics of what I have to do (cap kit) so that's not an issue.

[menace]

looks like your vert. hold is way off unless there actually were tons of repeating lines on your display at the time of the picture.  don't know what would cause your monitor to roll like that though.

[SirPeale]

Don't worry about the picture on screen.  That is caused by me taking the picture in a dark room with no flash so Ken could see where the milky area was.  It's rolling like that because it hasn't hit 15KHz yet.

[DaveJ-UK]

I can't offer any advice unfortunately, but the one that isn't working looks a lot cleaner - almost new - compared to the one that's working fine.

[SirPeale]

Yeah, there's a bit of dust on the one that's just fine.  I have been leery of cleaning it off.  Not that I'm afraid of getting shocked, I'm afraid I'll break it!

[SirPeale]

Ken -

Pulled the chassis for a cap replacement.  Can't call it a 'kit' if there isn't a kit to buy.  Here's a pic.  Can you identify it now?



And here's a list of the caps  I know I'm missing a couple (I simply can not see the lettering on the damn things without removing them first)

50v 100 uf
50v 100 uf
16v 33 uf
50v .47 uf
16v 22 uf
35v 4.7 uf
50v 1 uf
50v 1 uf
50v .22 uf
50v 10 uf
10v 47 uf
50v .47 uf
10v 47 uf
160v 47 uf
16v 330 uf
50v 220 uf
35v 10 uf
160v 4.7 uf
350v 2.2 uf
25v 1000 uf
50v 1000 uf
200 v 680 uf

These values look okay to you?  Esp the ones that read .46 uf.

Now, I think you can substitute a cap of a larger voltage as long as the uf number is the same, correct?

[Ken Layton]

You won't need to replace that 200 v 680 uf cap---that's the main filter cap and it rarely fails. You probably can skip replacing the .47 uf caps as they are probably ok.

When subbing values you can always go up in voltage. If your old cap was rated say at 100 volts you could sub one rated at 160 or 250 volts . Just remember that the higher the voltage the capacitor will be bigger diameter and/or taller than your original so be sure to see if there's room (usually you're ok). Keep the uf value the same though. Generally the electrolytic caps rated at 100 volts or more in your monitor are the ones affecting brightness/contrast.

Make sure to note the polarity of each cap as you replace one by one. Don't put any in backwards! Look for any that don't have a polarity marking on it's case. There might be a few "bi-polar" (a.k.a. non-polar) caps in there and they would say "B.P." on the case.

I still can't identify the make of monitor as it's one I haven't seen before. I would say it's probably Japanese or Korean---definitely NOT American and not Hantarex.

[Ken Layton]

Here's the Mouser #'s:

100 uf @ 50 v use 140-XRL50V100 (9 cents each)
33 uf @ 16 v use 140-XRL16V33 or 140-XRL25V33
22 uf @ 16 v use 140-XRL16V22 or 140-XRL25V22
4.7 uf @ 35 v use 140-XRL35V4.7 (5 cents)
1 uf @ 50 v use 140-XRL50V1.0 (5 cents)
10 uf @ 50 v use 140-XRL50V10 (5 cents)
47 uf @ 10 v use 140-XRL16V47 or 140-XRL25V47
47 uf @ 160 v use 140-XRL160V47 (37 cents)
330 uf @ 16v use 140-XRL16V330 or 140-XRL25V330
220 uf @ 50 v use 140-XRL50V220 (17 cents)
10 uf @ 35 v use 140-XRL50V10 (5 cents)
4.7 uf @ 160 v use 140-XRL160V4.7 (9 cents)
2.2 uf @ 350 v use 140-XRL350V2.2 (19 cents)
1000 uf @ 25 v use 140-XRL25V1000 (31 cents)
1000 uf @ 50 v use 140-XRL50V1000 (58 cents)

[SirPeale]

Ken, you're awesome!  Thanks so much!

[Ken Layton]

Order the caps online as you get a little better pricing.

[SirPeale]

Heh...actually the prices I'm getting online are more than the prices you quoted here (by a cent or two)

There are two small caps I just can not see without taking this apart further, something I don't wish to do until I have to do the caps.  Since they're so small, are they something you feel I should worry about

[MonitorGuru]

Please let me know what brand/model of monitor this is.

I actually received the chassis+neck board identical to this one about a year ago on an eBay deal (which unfortunately went bad since the seller packed horribly, and thus the main board and neck board had 3 HUGE cracks in each, plus the Tournament Arkanoid board also packed in it had the red IC with about 24 inline pins break off and in half). How did it break?  Lets just say there was a big isolation transformer involved and, sadly, no packing between anything.  Dumb___. Lost a boat load of money on that as he never paid up for his incompetence.


Anyway, this thing has been sitting in my junk pile since I got it as I had no clue who made it and if it had any value to anyone for parts. Now I see your picture is 100% identical to what I have. I too could not find any info as to who made it/etc.. looking at all of Bob's pics/etc..

[SirPeale]

Finally, I think I know what brand and model number this monitor is.

I *think* it is an Algol Technology Inc model CR-M-19VH

Made in Taiwan.  303-3 Convention Way, Redwood City, CA  94063

Did a Google search, and although there are a lot of hits for Algol Tech, doesn't seem to be any useful information.

[fredster]

I think I've seen that thing before.  I have a DECO system Burgertime (with the cassette) and that monitor was in it.

Has all kinds of oriental writing on the lables right?

This one is dead too.

[SirPeale]

No, all the labeling is in English.

[Ken Layton]

Updating this old thread.

The monitor is an Algol model CR-M-19VH which is also known as a ChungHwa "ATTL" or TB-3 7007 or PWB-612.

A capkit is now available here:

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/monitor-cap-kits/algol-cr-m-19vh-series-monitor-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/monitor-cap-kits/chunghwa-tb-3-7007-series-monitor-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/