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I Created a pretty realistic 720 Controller
CKebz:
Its all good. I actually found a local library that has a makerspace and I can use the 3D printer there. As for the model, I'm really just trying to keep this as simple as possible. I think mounting the optic sensor on the side wall of the case will be the most simple solution. It will just screw right in with no need for a mount. The less moving parts for me, the better.
On a side note, I was playing around with the optic sensors that just came in today. I'm not sure if I wired it up wrong or what, but I followed a simple wiring diagram, and when the card is not present (not interrupting/breaking the light beam), the light is on. I assume that would represent the button click? When the card interrupts the beam, the lights go off. Does this sound right to you?
Here is the link to a short video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ba4h01zKVYM
PL1:
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 17, 2025, 10:53:07 pm ---I actually found a local library that has a makerspace and I can use the 3D printer there.
--- End quote ---
Great. ;D
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 17, 2025, 10:53:07 pm ---As for the model, I'm really just trying to keep this as simple as possible.
--- End quote ---
Simple is good, as long as it is strong enough and stays within tolerances.
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 17, 2025, 10:53:07 pm ---I think mounting the optic sensor on the side wall of the case will be the most simple solution. It will just screw right in with no need for a mount. The less moving parts for me, the better.
On a side note, I was playing around with the optic sensors that just came in today. I'm not sure if I wired it up wrong or what, but I followed a simple wiring diagram, and the card is not present (not interrupting the light beam), the light is on. I assume that would represent the button click? When the card interrupts the beam, the lights go off. Does this sound right to you?
--- End quote ---
1. Do you have a link and/or manufacturer+P/N for the sensor?
- Hard to predict how things might work without dimensions and (hopefully) a datasheet.
2. What diagram did you use to wire the light?
- No wiring diagram or datasheet ==> no way to tell if the sensor is an active low or active high device or if it is operating correctly.
Scott
CKebz:
Actually, after a little more research it would appear that I got the wrong optic sensor and it was operating as it should. I need to return them and get an "Opposite-Type Count Infrared Sensor" so the circuit completes when the light beam is broken.
For reference, here is what I ordered and am returning tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHDRF497?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Here is what I ordered to replace.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0813L4XQC?psc=1&smid=A22F6H401YLDXJ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
Here's a link to a video of the optical sensor doing its thing:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Ba4h01zKVYM
The wiring diagram was just a sketch my brother made me. It shows a 4 AA battery power supply with a positive (red) and negative (black) wire coming out of it. The positive wire connected to the optic sensors VCC pin. the GND wire went to the battery negative wire. The OUT pin on the sensor went to the light Positive wire, and the lights Negative wire went to the negative terminal at the battery pack.
Obviously, I know very little about wiring stuff, which does lead me to my (hopefully) last question... I have a button on the Tankstick that isnt being used, How would I wire the optical sensor (once its working) to replace the unused button? I assume I start by disconnecting the ground and power wires of the unused button?
PL1:
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 18, 2025, 01:28:23 am ---For reference, here is what I ordered and am returning tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHDRF497?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
--- End quote ---
From the Amazon listing:
--- Quote ---As long as a non-transparent object passes through the slot, it can trigger to output a low TTL level.
--- End quote ---
This is what you want for an "active low" encoder like your X-Arcade encoder, an IPac, and most other modern encoders.
- Ground (logic LOW) applied to the encoder input triggers the output.
The only downside to this one is that the slot is rather narrow (5.9mm) compared to the 2nd one linked below. (10mm)
- If your encoder wheel is 3mm thick, the outermost edge of the encoder wheel only has less than +/- 1.5mm clearance assuming you mount it perfectly square and get the height of the encoder wheel perfect.
- With a 3mm thick encoder wheel and a 10mm slot, you have +/- 3.5mm clearance. It's still close, but much more likely to work well.
See if you can find one that acts like this one (blocked=LOW), but has the wider 10mm slot.
- Post what you're thinking about ordering and I'll verify that it is good so you can order with confidence.
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 18, 2025, 01:28:23 am ---Here is what I ordered to replace.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0813L4XQC?psc=1&smid=A22F6H401YLDXJ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
--- End quote ---
From the Amazon listing:
--- Quote ---The OUT pin is low leve when there is no object between the photoelectric sensor, and the OUT pin is high leve when there is a object between the photoelectric sensor
--- End quote ---
This is the opposite of what you want.
It would work for an "active high" encoder like some of the "Zero Delay" encoders where applying 5v to the input triggers the output.
The one good thing about this one is the 10mm width of the slot.
- It would be a lot easier to keep the one tooth encoder wheel from hitting the sides on this one.
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 18, 2025, 01:28:23 am ---Here's a link to a video of the optical sensor doing its thing:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Ba4h01zKVYM
The wiring diagram was just a sketch my brother made me. It shows a 4 AA battery power supply with a positive (red) and negative (black) wire coming out of it. The positive wire connected to the optic sensors VCC pin. the GND wire went to the battery negative wire. The OUT pin on the sensor went to the light Positive wire, and the lights Negative wire went to the negative terminal at the battery pack.
--- End quote ---
Either they shipped you a different part or you got something mixed up in your description.
If you have a multimeter, disconnect the sensor out wire from the lights and check the voltage -- it should be around 5v when unblocked and close to 0v when blocked.
If you don't have a multimeter, get one. There are decent ones on Amazon for <$50. You may also want to get a set of probes similar to this one with alligator clips, micrograbbers, etc.
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 18, 2025, 01:28:23 am ---Obviously, I know very little about wiring stuff, which does lead me to my (hopefully) last question... I have a button on the Tankstick that isnt being used, How would I wire the optical sensor (once its working) to replace the unused button? I assume I start by disconnecting the ground and power wires of the unused button?
--- End quote ---
Have you read through the FAQ?
This section should help you understand how to wire microswitches to an encoder.
https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/FAQ#How_do_I_wire_microswitches_to_an_encoder.3F
When you press the microswitch, ground (from wire 3) is applied to the encoder input (wire 1 for the left button) which triggers the associated output.
When you block the sensor, ground (from the sensor) is applied to the encoder input (wire 1 for the left button) which triggers the associated output. (same as pressing the button)
When you don't block the sensor, logic HIGH is applied to the encoder input (wire 1 for the left button) which does not trigger the associated output. (same as not pressing the button)
Four schematics:
1.) No button pressed, no input triggered.
2.) Button 1 pressed, input 1 triggered. (red)
3.) Button 2 pressed, input 2 triggered. (green)
4.) Both buttons pressed, both inputs triggered.
Scott
PL1:
On further consideration, the second sensor you mentioned (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0813L4XQC) might work if you change from a one tooth encoder wheel to a one hole encoder wheel where the opto is blocked unless the wheel is at 12 o'clock.
As a bonus, that design change will make it easier to keep the wheel from jamming on the opto housing. ;D
The only concern is that there is a difference in logic level voltages between active-high and active-low devices, so the sensor might not work with your encoder.
Scott
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